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Hello hello. Been a while sense I've posted. Anyways, let's get to it.
I installed a new rebuilt 700r4 in my car. As we know, the most important part of these aside from the rebuild itself is setting up the tv cable correctly. I just spent the last week reading every post, blog, on every forum, darn near on the web about the correct procedure to do so. I'll try and make this quick.
I have a 4150 with Holleys corrector bracket, and no matter what process I used, from using a gauge and taking readings to wot full tv pull, pan off, you name it I tried, I still couldnt get it set right. Soft shifts, stacked shifts. Numerous calls to my builder, calls to bowtie, just could not get the tv plunger to go flush with the sleeve. It always came about 1/4" short.
I made a cardboard template of gms correct radius ans compared it to the holley corrector. This is where I found theirs is wrong. Yes I have the new style. It swings the correct radius but starts early. They say it's so the tv pull is ahead of throttle per say. Well that's fine and dandy but it finishes its pull before carb hits wot so if you dont have sonnaxs spring on the end of the cable, it ratchets out the adjuster. Cant tell you how many ppl have that issue. So, today I'm out in the garage focused on the cable as to why it's not pulling plunger flush with sleeve. Took cable off, manually moved tv linkage, moves nice, feels great, returns to home. Tran is good. Inspect cable, no kinks, moves freely. Install cable but keep carb side down by me under car. All of a sudden the light bulb went off. I back the bolt out about a 1/4" and move cable housing out of tran till it hits bolt, pull on cable and bingo!
The eyelet that's crimped on the end of the cable is bottoming out up in the cable housing. I shoulda known (hindsight) as I literally pulled on cable w a vicegrips days earlier and it would not move. It would ratchet out but after that nothing. It was bottomed out no doubt.
Conclusion
In my opinion there is NO other way to set up a tv cable than to have pan off and confirm that the tv valve is is being pushed in flush to the sleeve. Actually the cam arm down there is what stops when it comes in contact with the sleeve, and 2, to have a gauge hooked up so you know what psi you have with no tv hooked up so you can set tv to 3 to 5 psi above that said reading in park. Not to mention you can get readings for the other gears.
We all know it's a lack of psi that kills our 3 4 clutches.
now that I have it figured out, installing bowtie overdrives kit will be a breeze.
I strongly urge everyone who is setting up their tv cable to pay close attention to the cable, specifically the end housing where the tv link gets pulled up into.
Yes I know sonnax makes a short link but I believe I'm definitely not the only one that has this issue with the cable housing being too short or shallow. If you have this issue I recommend putting some shims on the housing and then putting the gasket on. If your worried about it leaking maybe a oring? Haven't gotten that far yet as the kit from bowtie should be here tomorrow.
D If your tv valve, spool, plunger, whatever ya wanna call it does not look like this when at wot, and comes up short when cable is TIGHT, im willing to bet the eyelet on the end of the cable is bottomed out in the cable housing.
06-30-2021, 09:31 PM
