rs_boy

Hey guys, the springs on my 91 RS are totally shot and I'd like to replace them. I'm looking for about a 1.5" drop in front and a 1" drop in the rear. Problem is, I haven't been able to find lowering springs for a V-6. All the ones available are made for the V-8 F-Bodies. Do any of you guys know where I can find some lowering springs for my V-6?

Xceleratemaro

heres a link

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/streetbe...vcamv682s.html


also if you would like to search there is pleanty of info in there.. I am 95% sure that Eibach makes them

Ryan_Alswede

How do your spring die? sure it ain't your shocks? Remember the ride will get worse with lower springs.

Doward

Replace shocks at the same time...

$210?! for those springs?

Wow... get a set of Dropzones off Ebay for like $90. 1.75" up front, 1.5" in rear - with the lighter V6, it comes out to about 1.5" all the way around, I believe... That's the road I'm going to go!

Ovrclck350

Worse=no

Lowering springs actually have BETTER spring rates than stock.

That's why you buy them instead of cuttins stock ones.

rs_boy

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll do a little more searching and maybe give Eibach a call. Oh, you said replace the shocks as well...what are some opinions on good shocks? I hear QA1 makes some really good ones. Anyways, thanks again.

Ryan_Alswede

How can that be if it has a shorter spring travel, every car I ever saw with them on looked like a wash board going down the street that it rode so stiff.

redraif

Eibach prokit for a v-8 car on my 2.8 made it ride much better. I love the feel, but they jack up the front end...Eibach does not make a v-6 spring, sooo...

We cut mine...1/2 a coil off the front. It did not hurt the ride...It is not recommended, but its what Eibach slyly suggested to us...The springs are progessive and are better able to handle slight trim... We cut the 1/2 coil off little by little with a cut off wheel, not letting it get too hot. The heat is what will damage the spring's rating...Stock springs being none progressive do not take well to cutting...they can bottom out.

My car with a 1/2 could cut up front came to about a 1.5 drop up front and a inch in back!

FAST RS

Suspension Techniques makes a set 200.00 from shox.com. i have a 91 RS as well my car handles better to they ar a 1 inch drop trust me DONT GO ANY LOWER or your car wll look ghetto with the wheels in the wheel well. Rears are easy to do fronts are a bytch.

Ovrclck350

It's not about the spring travel...it's about the spring rates....don't have time to explain. DO a search tho.

Ryan_Alswede

spring travel ---- spring rate sorry ment what you said.

My a** still begs to differ on the ride quality.

FAST RS

I have lowering springs my old springs were shot i could stand on them and they would squish down. the new ones werre firm as hell. The old ride was slopy bouncy and rode and handled like crap. With the lowering springs my car stiffend up handled better it was more bouncyer then the old springs but it was a stiff bounce not a bottoming out bounce. After a few weeks i didnt notice anything at all.

CC_HotRod

When I was checking into lowering my Camaro. I was going to use the Suspension Techniques springs. When I did a search I found only one guy that had used them on a third gen. I e-mailed him on how he liked his springs and the quality etc. Here is his response:

Well, i'm happy with the ST springs, although they seemed to settle a bit lower than what I had asked for. I ordered them with a 1-1/2" drop, but I think they settled somewhere between 1-3/4" and 2". Either way, though, they really helped get the car stabilized again, so I can live with the compromise. The car does seem to ride harder in colder weather (50*F and below) but I don't think the springs are totally at fault for that. Car definitely handles now, i'm very happy with it's performance. The ST's were a good buy.

Anyway, if I could offer any advice from experience it would be (and don't mind all this if you've already taken care of it, but I feel obliged to tell anyone who's lowering their car)
You'll want to make sure before you start that the upper spring isolators are still there, mine weren't and I had to go back into it a second time once I finally got them.
The springs took about a month to settle properly, and I had to have the steering re-aligned thereafter.
Also the rear end will shift off center with any drop spring, so if you don't already have one, plan for an adjustable panhard bar to get it centered again.
In addition i'd strongly recommend some tubular or boxed trailing arms and the relocation brackets to keep the wheel hop factor down and extra wear and tear off your axle components, since your pinion angle's gonna change when you drop.
Check out your torque arm mount on the tranny, if it's rotting it'll totally fall apart once you start running the car after it's lowered and you'll have more pinion angle problems. Like I said, you may already have all this knocked, but just incase, there it is again. Hope this helps you.

Ryan_Alswede

Wow sounds like lowing a camaro is like opening a can of worms and making more work for yourself.

FAST RS

I just put the springs on mine with noew swaybar bushings and endlink bushings all poly and my shocks and struts were fairly new and have had no problems. but he is right about the alignment it will be off so make sure you rotate your tires every couple months. so they wear even.

AGood2.8

You need better shocks- your stiffer springs are over powering you shocks. This is the common dong,dong,dong syndrome of lowering car with stiff springs but retaining the stock or slightly upgraded shock. You should always buy better shocks first before you install stiffer springs or lower the car. High rate rebound Roadrace shocks such as Koni or Bilstein will cure this

redraif

My ride so greatly improved...it was amazing. The Eibachs being progressive, keep you from banging around like our stock springs. They have large coils that help contain your range of movement without jarring you. I remember how horrible the railroad crossings were before them...bang,bang, bang. I thought the car was going to break something. I know that my sunglasses would about fall off. Basically the stock springs were fully compressing and then springing back to full height and banging me all around, and they were weak with age, so they compressed much easier then they should or did when they were new.

With the Eibachs, it is a floaty effect. They have a more controlled compression and release. So its stiffer, yes, but its not a jarring stiffness. It is a more controled feeling. I can hold and drink in my hand over teh rail road tracks and not worry about wearing it...

With them, the larger sway bars, adj panhard, aftermarket lower control arms, urathane bushings, and subframe conectors...the car is amazing now! I also had replaced my shock and struts before teh spring change...KYBs nothing special, but they work! It handles incredibly...

TomP

I do agree with strut & shock replacement though, because I bet you a cup of coffee that you've got the original shocks & struts on there. Rule of thumb- if shocks/struts are old and you don't know where they came from (previous owner), replace them!! Shocks you can do yourself easily; struts require a bit more tools, and you'll need to get an alignment after putting struts on.

So you might want to do 'em at the same time- springs and struts. To remove the front springs you have to disconnect the strut anyway.

And (laughs) While you're in there, you could replace the balljoints too, since you'll have unhooked the strut from the steering knuckle. And if you're that far in you might want to replace the old rubber control arm bushings with new rubber - or new polyurethane! And if you do that, why not replace the tie rod ends and the rest of the suspension since you need to get an alignment anyway? It's a never ending replacement scenario if you think "Well, while I'm in there, I might as well...."

Keep in mind if you have a shop replace everything for you, it'll be about a million dollars. Some shops like to charge double labor, too- like, if they remove the center link, they might add a charge for removing the inner tie rod ends. That's bunk; the inner tie rods have to be disconnected from the center link to remove the center link!

Did I say "bunk"? Weird.

redraif

We did the shocks, no prob...when it was spring & strut time we did exactly as TomP said WE replaced it all...mine looked great, amazingly, but since you have it apart anyway...We limped it to an alignment shop right after...

FAST RS

I have monroe sensatrac gas shocks and struts.