pitzzilla

I have a 2.8 V 6 that is flooding the fuel comes out of the throttle body and into the ducting what could be the problem? LOTS OF FUEL! engine is stock was working fine for a few days filled up tank now flooding problem

Nixon1

Wowsa... That's some BAD flooding. So you're telling me...it's filling up your entire lower and upper intake and building up enough to go out of your throttle body? Are you SURE it's fuel?? Cause that's a LONG way for fuel to travel up, and the closest injector to the intake is the cold start, assuming you have it, and that's in the back of the LOWER manifold..not even in the plenum. Only way I can see flooding like that really happening is if you've got a fuel pump wired to stay running when the car is shut off, and you've got some leaky injectors.... But ***, your engine would be drowning in fuel... Which is what sounds like is happening....

I dunno, maybe I'm missing something here...

Gumby

What a fire that would be from one wrong back fire. If the plenium was fill with fuel.

I don't see how that could happen either.

Maybe the TB coolant thingy is leaking into the TB???


Matt

TechSmurf

Hey Nix.. I think I can safely assume I can now say that's DEFINITELY liquid fuel being sucked in through your evaporative emissions side

I think I've figured out what happened, too.. gasket on my pump was installed incorrectly (by a shop, don't look at me).. and therefore air was allowed to escape from the top of the tank.. no air buffer at the top, she'd overfill right quick.

Temporary fix? Don't fill your tank. Long term fix? Find however the air is escaping from the tank and fix it. It could just be a bad evap can/solenoid... if anyone thinks this diagnosis is BS, *explain* why with technical knowledge so I can better understand what happened to mine...

(btw, my fix, being that I live in a non-emissions area.. screw the evap system. Plug the vacuum and fuel line associated with the can and call it good)

pitzzilla

I dont know if the pluem is full of fuel i assume it is if the fuel is comming out to the air filter and out to the floor. the car was running fine up untill i filled it up the other night started it up run a few seconds then died out lft it at the station came back in the day time look it over and found the fuel in the filter before filling up it car ran fine also before this fill up the car would stall i took the gas capof and the car started to run fine before this incident do i throw a match to it it see if it will start or ?????? dont know what the problem need u alls help where do i start I think it could be ther regulator

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Had some trouble reading this post. However, check the fuel pressure regulator. A torn diaphram will allow fuel to pass through the vacuum line and into the plenum.

Disconnect the vacuum line and run the fuel pump. If fuel comes out of the vacuum line then the regulator is bad.

If that is OK, then follow TechSmurf and disconnect the CCP purge line and see if fuel is coming out of that line. Or whichever is the easy one to check first.

RBob.

pitzzilla

CCP PURGE LINE????

TechSmurf

that big canister behind your driver side headlights. The tank-fill being the last thing you did before it breaks is a pointer at the tank being overfilled and sucking liquid fuel through the vapor line. CCP == charcoal canister purge

And since the charcoal can vac lines terminate at... the throttle body!!! .. yeah.. not nearly as far for the fuel to travel.. remember these intakes have a uphill ramp where the TB connects to the plenum..

pitzzilla

Let say the fuel is comming from the ccp what would cause that to happen? I thought the ccp line is just for vapors to returns to the tank. Also is it possible that the fuel return line might be the problem I should mention that this engine is in a olds ceira basicly the same.

TechSmurf

Roll your eyes at me for a perfectly reasonable explination? If only I had pics to show you of the gallon of fuel on the ground siphoning out from my charcoal canister through its air vent.. yes, it's a vapor system (which sends fuel vapor to the motor via a vac line, not returns them to the tank), but it connects to the gas tank via a line and if the tank is overfilled WILL take on liquid fuel and that liquid fuel WILL go through that vac line into the motor.. but hey, if you call me bs, whatever, figure it out without my help.

Nixon1

Tech's right. Sounds like the most reasonable explanation to me.

pitzzilla

is there a problem asking questions! If read correctly it was not doughting you I was asking if if that was the problem what would cause it which you stated over filled tank if you dont what to help then don't that is what this board is about is it not. rolleyes can also be takens as woundering as is

Nixon1

Actually....the question marks are the customary wondering signs... The eye-roll is sarcastic or like 'whatever, you're an idiot'....

Lol I'm sure that little misunderstanding will be forgiven..

However, like I said, I agree with Tech about that. I'd disconnect the charcoal canister lines, clean out the tb and intake tubing, etc. and try running the car again....

pitzzilla

dont need your forgiveness FYI CCP thoery was not correct as for an idiot it how you you use it stick to the biss at hand be mre considerate not all of us are as smart as you: hail: would you like to try agian at the problem or do you want to waste your time complaining about the symbol.

Nixon1

Woah there man, chill out.

Considering the charcoal can theory isn't working, dunno what to tell you. Thats the only reasonable theory I can think of to explain how fuel got that far up your intake system.... Cause that intake's way too big to actually fill up with fuel....there just isnt enough fuel in the lines to do that before it loses all pressure.

Dunno, I'm stumped. Only other explanation I can offer is that maybe it's not fuel... Try to see if it's coming from the PCV return line maybe... It'd be pretty insane for any sort of liquid to come out of that line but hey....you never know.

pitzzilla

The problem was the fuel regulator it was allowing fuel through the vacum line into the trottlebody and filling the air duct and canister

Nixon1

Glad to hear ya found the problem. Damn... It's hard to believe a little broken pressure regulator could allow that much fuel to get up there.

TechSmurf

It's really not that hard to see how it works once you look at it.. little diaphram in the pressure regulator tears, and suddenly engine vacuum is drawing raw fuel through the regulator, through the vac line, straight to the throttle body. The fuel pump could be disfunct and engine vacuum would still be drawing fuel from the return line at 20+ in/Hg... fill up the throttle body right quick.

It's absolutely horrible how bad cars run when they're trying to breathe liquid fuel..

and yes, rolleyes == sarcastic "You're an idiot", and was taken as such, and will be in the future.

About the time the rbob brought up the fpr diaphram I consolidated it as a 50/50 chance as to which event happened, with the primary supporting theory for my half being "you filled it up, it died"... well, being that filling it up is precisely how mine got started, the timing for that fpr tearing was just.. sad.

Nixon1

I guess it must've filled up pretty bad there before it was shut off. Because although I see your point Tech, the fuel pump is only going to be off when the engine is off, which means zero engine vacuum, so the regulator really shouldn't be letting much through at all.

pitzzilla

well the car run but after a 10 20 mile the car stalls hand has a hard restarting once it starts agian it run ok for another 10 or so mile no codes every thing seem ok time to shot the car

TomP

How long does it take to start back up? If it only starts after the engine cools down, it's probably the ignition module. The Haynes 82-92 Camaro (or 82-92 Firebird) manual tells you how to remove, rebuild, and reinstall the distributor. Should cost you about $100. $50 for module, $12 for pickup coil, $20 for cap/rotor set.

Buy a bag of "1 inch inside diameter o-rings" to replace the seal on the distributor shaft. The old one should be dried up by now, with hairline cracks that will cause an oil leak. The oil will drip down the back of the block and appear to be a main seal leak.

85-89 2.8's might have to unclip the cold start injector connector (at the base of the distributor, going into the intake manifold) to be able to yank the dist up.

Buy an extra packet of "lithium heat sink grease" from Radio Shack for $3, and make sure to use that between the new module and the baseplate of the distributor. Otherwise you'll cook your brand new module.

We use the same spark module as the V8 remote-coil HEI ignition systems, so Holley #891-103 (high performance module, with longer dwell) will work on our cars.

Clean up the air gap between the reluctor and pole pieces, too. The reluctor is a 6-prong magnet that's permanently (for our purposes) attached to the shaft. The pole pieces are fixed to the distributor base plate. Buy a "valve feeler gauge" ($3 at any parts store). Swing out one of the thinnest blades. Spin the shaft so all 6 magnets line up with all 6 pole pieces. Insert the thin blade between each magnet tip and each pole piece. Bend the pole piece towards the magnet prong so the feeler blade is sandwiched between the two, and repeat this for the other pole pieces. Spin the shaft to make sure that the magnet DOES NOT TOUCH the pole pieces. This process will make the magnet pulse stronger (you'll be able to feel it as you spin the shaft), and this provides a stronger "signal" to the new $12 pick-up coil.