86BLUEBIRD

well my old cat broke up so i replace it. the cat didnt seat right on the y pipe so i put a muffle patch around where the pipes joined and that sealed for a while. then i noticed that the top part of it looks burned and the muffler patch charred. i thought maybe the muffler got backed up when the old cat was breaking up so i put on a dynomax superturbo and had them weld on 2 1/2" pipes. tried another muffler patch and charred and cracked up.
im getting a code 32 for the egr, replaced the valve and checked the lines and thats not the problem so im assuming its the solenoid. would this be causing the car the run rich and burn up the cat? or the O2 sensor? or a combo of both?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Okay, your first problem is that you are using the muffler patch. I had three on my cat at one point (three joints to seal) and none of them stayed on for more than about three days at a time. The pressure of the exhaust gases is what blows out the patching material after a while, so I would try to find another way to fix the problem.

When you replaced the cat, did you go and buy a direct fit or a universal mount type? The direct fit is 23" long if you went out and bought the universal. This length is critical for matching up of the y-pipe and intermediate pipe.

Second, when you removed the old cat, did you use an exhaust pipe expander on the end of the y-pipe? If you didn't, then you probably aren't getting as good a seal as you should at the front. Also at this time, I would remove the muffler and blow some compressed air through the intermediate pipe to get whatever remains of the cat are in there out.

Third, if I were you, before I did anything else, I would replace the 02 sensor. If the engine was running rich and killed the old cat (they don't die.. they are murdered) the O2 is probably the culprit, and may be causing most of your problems.

Last, if you connect +12V and ground between the last two terminals on the vacuum regulator valve (the thing wired into the EGR solenoid, terminals from left side facing the connector) and the solenoid doesn't click, then the plunger is jammed or rusted ( ) in place and it needs to be replaced.

86BLUEBIRD

right now i have j-b weld around where the pipes join and it is charred and cracking. i bought the direct fit converter. what i might do is take the cat off all together and run straight pipe as florida has no vehicle inspection. what would be the easiest way to connect 12v and ground to the vacuum control switch? or do you mean put a jumper between them?

what plunger? the valve is new, just replaced a couple of months ago.

KED85

Start by replacing the Oxy Sensor.
Next since you can, place in a striaght pipe.
That last operation will solve the pipe mismatch problems as you'll have it done at a shop, right?
IF ya wanna go whole hog on the EGR set up, remove all the pipes (exhaust to manifold one, also) and look for carbon build up and eliminate it.
Add some new gaskets and tighten well.
Make sure all your vacuum hoses are in great condition, that will help also.
Use 5/16" windshield wiper hose to patch all cracked vacuum hard lines.
IN the pipe that is installed to replace the CC, have them make the ends match the factory pipes, so if ya wanna install a CC at a later date, easier to do so.

TomP

Well what's the deal with the pipes not sealing? Is the cat opening too big? Is anything dented?

I'd suggest a band clamp; that'll crunch down really tight. http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rt=WLK%2D33228

Or if the y-pipe outlet is crushed (and that's why it doesn't seat well into the cat), pick up a tailpipe expander for $20 at Pep Boys or similar. It rounds out pipes that have been dented due to old clamps or screwdrivers or etc. It won't expand a pipe past it's original diameter; you need a $150 hydraulic expander for that! Here's the one I've got, found it at Pep Boys Auto: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=480

And if it's the Catco Cat; that cat inlet was really TOUGH. I had to tighten my clamp with a breaker bar so the joint was tight. Use a stainless steel clamp (stronger than normal steel) and make it TIGHT!! But the y-pipe outlet has to be round for that to work.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The plunger is the thing inside the solenoid that actually does the work of directing the vacuum flow. The valve has nothing to do with the solenoid. If the valve has a hole, then yes, it won't open. But if the solenoid doesn't work, then you won't ever get to find out if the valve is actually bad because little or no vacuum goes into the valve.

The best thing to do is connect a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to one of the terminals for the solenoid, and another jumper from the other terminal to a good ground. If the solenoid clicks, it's good. If not, then it's bad.

What also can be bad is the vacuum sensor located on the terminal block. If you have a DVOM and a vacuum pump, hook the meter to the first two terminals of the block (two left side ones) and apply vacuum to the sensor. If the meter reads anything other than either 0 or about 0 ohms, then the sensor is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced (it's all one piece ).