Apolo

Well, i have a lot of troubles with my car (for a newbie i think), have bad egr solenoid, bad maf, (codes 32, 34) i im getting like 12 mpg, the engine is the 2.8 mpfi and 700r4, wich i think is bad, the ses light comes only when im driving on highway at 50 or 55 mph and release the gas, just going whit the impulse, well also i have noticed that the cars runs much better when is cold, and when are warm days, i push the gas and it seems like im not, it has bad acceletiion, i also noticed a a whistle vacuum leak, and in the pictures i show you one hose unplugged, i was gonna replace the egr solenoid but also i was reading thar the egr system only can affect the mileage for 1 or 2 mpg, so i think thats not the trouble,

thanks, javier


oh i forget these pics are behind the egr solenoid, next to the wall

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Did you set up the EGR the way I told you since you can't get the solenoid, or did you try a solenoid from another car?

Do the cabin vent controls work to put air out of each vent when you move the top lever along its settings? Does the heat work constantly? That unplugged hose is for one of 2 things. It's either for the inlet to the ventilation controls or it's the vacuum source for the heater core bypass valve by the alternator. Also, does the blower work on High? If not, then you need to find the other half of that red connector as that is the power source for the high blower relay by the blower motor.

Apolo

Ok, first at all, thanks maverick for allways answe my newbie questions, well i have putted the egr valve as u say, and im gonna leave it for a while, and i see how the mileage is going.

i have taken another pics, so, the hose unplugged comes whit another, wich is conected to this split? one side goes to the back of the manifold,

Apolo

the other side runs to the front of the engine, as you see, it conects to other split that has one side unplugged, where it goes?



the last pic is another unplugged switch, that i found today, i feel i have a mess here, please help me


the ac, throw air for all the vents ok, and works in all settings of the ac controls, also the blower works in high, if it works constantly in heat thats the only thing i cant remember

Apolo

ttt

Apolo

up!

TomP

OK I'll give it a try; first for your EGR, are you sure it's the solenoid? Is the little vacuum line between the switch and valve in good shape?

I agree w/Maverick that the vacuum hose from the firewall is for the heater controls (between defrost, panel, heater, etc)...

The vacuum hose by the radiator comes from your ball-shaped vacuum tank which is inside the fender on the driver's side. it might be so simple that the hose fell off the vacuum tank. Take off the driver's side tire and take down the plastic inner fender liner to see the vacuum tank. My Firebird has the battery on that side, and my vaccum tank is rectangle-shaped and on the firewall, so I can't help much more than that. Someone with that vaccum ball has to go out and look at their car to help.

Do you have a sticker underneath your car's hood with the vacuum line diagram on it? That would help with the melted hose (replace the hose!) at the back of the engine... or hopefully someone can go look at their car and help.

I don't even recognize that connector by the radiator either...

I guess I'm not much help but if you have that sticker under the hood it would explain where all the hoses go!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

They must have changed the vacuum tank ball between 86 and 87... My 87 Bird has the ball under the battery and nothing on the firewall as a vacuum tank. The line that would be running to it (the ball is gone now... broke the mount removing it and the battery tray is shot) would be T'd into a check valve and the side outlet of said check valve would be the vacuum source for the HVAC control head. And of course, the inlet to the check valve would be the small side of the T where the brake booster connects.

The earlier cars had 2 connections for the HVAC blower motor, one being ground and some connection for the resistor pack, and the small gray connector coming from the junction block by the headlights for the high speed blower relay. The gray single wire connector looks like what my connection for the high blower relay used to look like before I put the terminal inside the larger connector (with the ground and other wire) as is used on the later model harnesses.

Apolo

Well, thanks for answer, and yes i have the diagrams, one of the vaccum diagram, other of the emision hose routing, i checked today, all the hoses are plugged right, seems to be ok, no signs of leak at idle, (the only leak i ear is always, when i start to push the gas, then i cant hear it anymore when the rpm goes up, by the sound of the engine), i took it to the mechanic to a better inspection, he sayed that there are no visible or audible leaks, but he suspect that the problem is the iac, he start the engine and then unplugged the pin, and say that the engines had to increase or decrease rpms, and nothing happens (he says that is like there are not iac detected by the ecm), but it has no ecm codes for the iac, so, about the egr, i applied vacuum, and the valve retains the vacuum very well, and the diaphragm moves ok, i think the valve is ok, tomorrow im gonna test the solenoid with the battery and che also if is necesary if its energy on the wires, (here a funny thing, i was playing whit the battery i purchased to test the solenoid, and it has no charge! xD, so the test doesn´t work) (right now egr valve its conected like maverick recomend me).

the maf, i cheked it and the orange thing its flat, but it was dirty, i cleaned, (with electric cards cleaner) and tomorrow, i`ll see if it works, if not im gonna replace the relay,

Last thing, forget all that hoses of ac.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Your vacuum leak sounds like the one I had when I found out that one of the mounting ears for my throttle body broke off and was leaking air. Replace the throttle body mounting gasket and see what happens.

Apolo

ok, ill do it tomorrow and let u know what happen, about the iac nothing?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The IAC obviously isn't going to work if it's unplugged. The engine won't speed up or slow down with it disconnected (at idle), as the air passing through the TB would be determined by the IAC position (if open) and also the bypass air flowing past the throttle plate (minimum air).

Apolo

ok, i got it, well im embarrasing cause always, jeje, i found something else,







thats i think the coolant temp sensor, it suposed to unpluged on the engine, right now its only conected in te wires side, the other side its unplugged

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

That would be the thermostatic switch for the seventh, cold start, injector. It holds the injector open until the coolant temp reaches 100*F (about 28*C). Why it's not in it's hole and what's keeping the coolant in the engine is not known. The thing with the round connector, right next to where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, is the temp sensor for the computer.

Apolo

ok, well, where is located the hole to put this coolant temp sensor, under the manifold? its, safe to remove myself and just pluged it?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

It's supposed to be right next to the other one... In a hole. Seeing as how you'll probably never see snow or any really cold weather, I would think you can get rid of it. Your cold starts may suffer a bit, but that may be because of the ancient injectors that are probably at least partially clogged.

Apolo

Ok, well, an update, i took the car to the mechanic again, the coolant temp sensor is out, because previous owner, in a repair mod the temp sensor, he put a nissan temp sensor, maybe cause he doesnt found the wire of the sensor, i went to several places and i cant found the wire, so, i´m gonna buy it trough rockauto.com, the conector wire and the sensor,

also he sayed about maf everithing its seems ok, the relay, it has energy, its weird, cause the ses light comes only when ure driving high sppeds and realease the gas pedal (like the egr failure), in city travels never comes, but when scanes the code with the paperclip it trows code 34, so, he told me try it with the maf disconected, and it run a little rich, just a little, maybe 10-15 percent than usualy mpg, also u gan see some blue smoke on the exahust, but the car feels a whole diferent, huge, huge, improvement, starts with no problems, runs smooth, and with much more power, much more, with the maf connected the car when i start the car it has rough idle, and when you´re accelerating its seems that its drowning, like the mix of gas/air is not correct,

i have readed a lot, im thinking that maybe the leak is the whole problem, (bad mpg, code 34, loss of power) cause the maf its not reading the all the air that enter to the engine, im thinking to see another mechanic that can found the leak, if i have to replace the maf, wells its a good brand right? also im thinking on replace my stock injectors, from southbay, any suggest would be apropiated

TomP

That's correct

What leak are we talking about?

The test your mechanic wanted (unplug MAF and drive the car) is one of the ways to tell that the MAF is bad. Here is a VERY old message I typed to a few people- it contains 7 tests for the MAF and code 34. The chart will 100% diagnose your problem, so please, follow the chart! As you'll see, when I had a code 34 problem, my connector was bad:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...870-post4.html

Apolo

Hi, thanks TomP, i hear a sucking sound only when the car starts moving after a stop, its not too loud but its clear that its there, here in mexico, againg, i cant find the trolle boddy gasket that maverick suggest me to buy, rockauto its the option again, well im gonna read and try the diagnostic for the maf, i`ll let u know what i can find, thanks!

Apolo

After a long time, i work again on the car, i was getting bad idle, stalling, code 32 and 34, sometimes loss of power, rpm goes up and down in at idling, 12 mpg (maybe this its normal i think) well, today i take a look of the hoses, in the past i thought that everiting was right, but it wasnt, after reading a lot, i know that i was wrong, these is what i found:

1.-The vacuum hose of the egr wich its suposed to conect to the "egr diagnostic vacuum switch" was plugged to the bypass valve of theater core.

2.- The "egr diagnostic vacuum switch" was connected to the back on the plenum, there was a T on one side the the hose os the brake booster, on the other side another T, one to the cruise control the other to the "egr diagnostic vacuum switch"

3.- The vaccum hose of EGR - Charcoal Canister was unpluged on the rubber block of the Throttle Body.

Also, replaced the Oil, Oil Filter, SparkPlugs, Fuel Filter, Air Filters. reset ECM

Now the car idles a little better (not perfect yet) in park the idle is stable, if i change to drive and stay just idling the rpm goes up up and down a little, less than before, it sems that isn`t stall too easy like before, i take it to a ride, trying to pull any codes, suddenly SES light apear while was driving, code 24, VSS i have the mechanical speedo, wich isn`t working since the last year, i remember one day just after start driving i listen that something broke, and then the speedo stop working, what should do next?