Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
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Karl, would that process you described be something we should consider doing to our mounts as preventative maint? Or is that only something you would do as a last resort? Like Dewey I dont have any problems with mine either, but if there is something I can do to prevent possible failure I'll do it. Thanks Karl!!
MrDude_1, thanks for the info it does help. I also found after shaving the stops on my a-arm that nothing had changed, then I found out about the stops in the box. So I will be replacing the stock steering box with an aftermarket one and I'm going to have them modify the internal stops before shipping it to me. But I'm not sure how much more angle I can use without contact, so I'm dealing with the contact issues first. So far its basically been measuring under the car with the suspension loaded at full lock and trying to figgure it out. I think widening the front track is the best way to deal with the chassis contact. Who cares about fenders hehehe!!!
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian I think widening the front track is the best way to deal with the chassis contact. Who cares about fenders hehehe!!!
Only issue with doing that, is that you change the scrub radius. (and a few other things, but just ever so slightly). Depending on how far out you go, it may have a dramatic effect on steering feel. Although, a positive scrub radius isn't always a bad thing. I would need to get out and measure to determine where we are on our cars right now. You obviously don't want one that is too extreme.
(of course, on a car as low as yours, with as much neg. camber (the SIA is effected by the camber setting) as you have, widening the track out a hair might just put the scrub radius radius right back where it would be.
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian Karl, would that process you described be something we should consider doing to our mounts as preventative maint? Or is that only something you would do as a last resort? Like Dewey I dont have any problems with mine either, but if there is something I can do to prevent possible failure I'll do it. Thanks Karl!!
It is only necessary to use the bearing mount adhesive if there is insufficient press-fit to hold the bearing securely in place. If the bearing is moving in the register at all, it will loosen up fairly quickly. It needs to be securely held in place. The adhesive can achieve this if there is insufficient press-fit. The mounts were designed and built with the proper amount of interfearance fit to achieve this, but in a couple of cases, perhaps due to machining tolerances, the bearings were obviously not held tightly enough to prevent movement.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it... but if you ever do need or decide to put a fresh set of bearings into the mounts, then using the adhesive as an extra preventative step certainly cannot hurt.
Crazy,
As far as getting extra clearance for additional steering lock, well I can't say this has ever been something I have looked at... For what I do, it is not an issue. I don't think that adding spacers to increase track is the answer, as that increases scrub radius also and will mean that the outside shoulder of the tire will contact the inner fender at the front sooner than if you had no spacers at all. Having the shortest possible tire on the front will help with this, as will having the tire tucked in.
You need to find a compromise with the inside of the tire hitting the sway bar or inner fender versus the outer shoulder hitting the inner fender at the front. Perhaps some amount of wheel spacer will be necessary to achieve this.
__________________ Karl Hunter
Hunter Motorsports
Vancouver, B.C. CANADA
I'll be honest, I didnt calculate anything to do with scrub radius yet. Definately something I should do before moving on. As far as contact, that is exactly where I'm at right now. Outside edge or shoulder of the tire would be contacting the edge of the fender towards the nose of the car at full lock with a wider track. So I'm gonna be trimming the fenders, inner liner is already gone. I really need as much angle as possible for drifting, even if I have to sacrafice other things. I don't think I'll be using a big spacer or anything, but not sure yet, front wheel specs are 17x8.5" w/ 4.5" BS and -7mm offset (ROH ZS), and then I have to take into account offset changes from the front brake upgrade I want to do (what is it .3mm?) I also thought the shorter tire would help me, so my front setup is around 24.5" tall (235/40/17).
Man I feel bad for hijacking this thread, but thats for the info guys, really appreciate it!!
You need to get out and messure stuff also. On my car, I hit the liner before I hit full lock, if I only have it at 2" below ride height. Lowering an extra .5", i pick up some more clearance, any lower, I start to lose clearance. there is really a ride height "sweet" spot for clearance, due to the shape of the wheel well, and liner.
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian front wheel specs are 17x8.5" w/ 4.5" BS and -7mm offset (ROH ZS), and then I have to take into account offset changes from the front brake upgrade I want to do (what is it .3mm?) I also thought the shorter tire would help me, so my front setup is around 24.5" tall (235/40/17).
Only 4.5" backspace??? You could easily have 5.5" with that wheel... I wouldn't run any spacers at all. Get the wheels tucked into the fenders more, and it won't hit the front of the wheel well. The bigger the scrub radius, the more the wheel moves fore and aft with steering angle. The more spacer you have (less backspacing) the bigger the scrub radius.
Your rear wheels have 5.5" backspace do they not? Try fitting a rear on the front to see if it clears the lip on the strut and the tie rod. I don't know how much meat is on the wheels you have in that area, but on my wheels, and on other 17" wheels from CCW the tie rod fits inside the wheel without hitting. You only need about 1/8" clearance to the strut to keep things from hitting.
I wouldn't recommend removing any material from the front of the fender well where the wheel is hitting, as that is a structural area. If you do cut out there, I would fabricate a patch to give the clearance needed and weld it over the cut out.
__________________ Karl Hunter
Hunter Motorsports
Vancouver, B.C. CANADA
The thing that worries me when measuring this stuff is that I cant truly simulate the suspension loading. So even if it fits with the suspension loaded via floorjack, I'm afraid it will rub with the car on the ground supporting the full weight and the suspension loads. I'm with you on the inner-fenderwells, I don't want to mess with them. The only cutting I plan to do is to the fender itself while its off the car. The front part by the side markers, seems I need to trim that area. I know its kind of ghetto but I'm making spacers out of wood (cheap and easy) so I can test different sizes and see how much room I have at full lock. Then once I find the size I want I'm gonna ask Andris to make me a set of adapters. We'll see how it works out, thanks for your guys ideas/input.
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian The thing that worries me when measuring this stuff is that I cant truly simulate the suspension loading. So even if it fits with the suspension loaded via floorjack, I'm afraid it will rub with the car on the ground supporting the full weight and the suspension loads. I'm with you on the inner-fenderwells, I don't want to mess with them. The only cutting I plan to do is to the fender itself while its off the car. The front part by the side markers, seems I need to trim that area. I know its kind of ghetto but I'm making spacers out of wood (cheap and easy) so I can test different sizes and see how much room I have at full lock. Then once I find the size I want I'm gonna ask Andris to make me a set of adapters. We'll see how it works out, thanks for your guys ideas/input.
take out the spring, and bolt it back up... then you can move it all around with the jack and see exactly where all of your clearances are for any ride height.. you can also then adjust your bumpstops if needed so they'll actually be useful when you run out of clearance.
btw, i heard a rumor that you guys are losing your drift track this july... that true?
ok..... i just read through all of these replies,lol. and all i wanted to know is if i could get 1998 corvette wheels that are 17 by 9.5 under the four corners of my 92 camaro without any wheel spacers. if not, what wheel spacers would i need? and if i get wheel spacers. what would the over all effect be on the way it looks and in the long run would it put any extra wear on my suspension componets? what size tires would you recomend with the 17 9.5's? i came here that way i didnt have to start a new thread by the way, plus im sure other members have a similar question or questions to the ones i just asked. and imho Hunter Motorsports car is one of the sexiest camaro's i have ever seen in my life.
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
I guess no one ever reads this thread. Maybe everyone who might care was out racing their cars this weekend.
Anyway, I'll answer my own question.
They don't rub at all, at least not that I can tell after vigerously throwing the car around several 180 turns in both directions and driving over BIG dips in the road twice as fast as I would drive my SUV. I also tried full lock turns both ways in a culdesac. I never heard any rubbing and I can't find any signs of rubbing in the wheel well or on the tire.
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
i put 17" c4 vette wheels on my iroc and i have no complaints 275 40 mt in back 255 40 nexen n3000 in front although i wish i went 255 45 to fill out the wheel well better
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
i have 17x8 snypers in the front with 245/45/17 bf kdw and 17x9 in the rear with 275/40/17. i like them, they are open alot and they help show off my zo6 brakes!!!
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
275/35/18 in the rear, 245/40/18 up front, no spacers, stock rear for now, lowered w/an eibach sportline kit and a pair of bilstein hd shocks in the rear.
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
Here are some pictures of my car with the 17x9's and 275-40-17's all the way around.
The black wheel on a white car takes a little getting used to but it is starting to grow on me. The fact that these fit BETTER than the 16" factory rims helps a lot. The fact that I can get 3 rims for the price on 1 tire doesn't hurt much either. After having destroyed 4 different sets of aftermarket aluminum rims by running DOT auto-x tires, I'm expect that these steel wheels will hold up better.
Was running 2in spacers all around till I switched to 4th Gen. rear, now I just run them in the front. Rear tucks nicely inside the upper fender lip (unrolled). Fronts are also well inside the fenders. No rubbing whatsoever.
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
17x8.5 Z06 replica 245 45 sumitomo htrz2 front, 2" spacer 1.5" drop
18x10.5 Z06 replica 275 40 sumitomo htrz2 rear, 2" spacer 1" drop
i could probably run a 1/8" smaller spacer in front cuz i have Baer brakes, i run -.5* camber in front and the wheels sit just inside the fender lip. the fronts will probably clear one more inch drop if i wanted them to. the rears could fit another 1/2" of wheel on the inside, but no more drop. the vert' wheel wells are sabotaged by the compartment added to them for the top to fold into.
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen85
17x9.5 C5 Z06 wheels in the front with 245/45ZR17's and 2" spacers
18x10.5 C5 Z06 wheels in the rear with 295/35ZR18's w/ 4th gen rear and no spacers.
That's exactly what I want to do. Do you have any clearance problems? Did you need to modify anything? Do they stick out beyond the fender lip? Do you have any photos? Do you think this is enough questions?
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
ok so i know this is old as the hills but im new, anyways i have an 84 z28 and im looking at getting some wheels for it ,, the rims im looking at are boss 338 , there 18x8 front but im not sure about the back ,, 18x9.5 there a -4 offset ,, so will they fit the car .. it is mint and i dont want to rub or damage the fender wells thanks foir any info!!
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
86 iroc with ROH snypers. 17x8 up front with 0 offset and 245/45/17 tires. also up front i have C5 zo6 brakes and they move each wheel out 1/3" from stock. rear are 17x9 with 4" backspace with a 275/40/17 tire. had sportlines on with no problems but now have prokit on since the sportlines suck!
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
This thread helped me, so I thought I'd post some pics and info. I picked up a set of SLP Hyper Black ZR-1 style 17x8's (for the 3rd gens) and put 245/45/17's on the front and 255/45/17 on the rear. They fit great with no issues.
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
1-What size wheels do you run (remember to post the width also), also post offset if you know it??
17"x9" 4th gen ZR1s
2-What thinkness of spacer do you have?
2" on front only
3-What size tires are you running?
275/40R17s all 4
4-Also list if your car is running a 4th gen rear or if its lowered or not!
Lowered on ProKit with 4th gen rear
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
Re: Cars with 17" and 18" wheels and tires come in and LIST them!!
i guess i'll contribute, didnt realize how old this thread is.
centerline daggers, 18x8 front 4.5" BS 245/40/18 tires.
18x12 rears, 8.5"BS 335/30/18 tires, they wont fit your car, i dont care how big your hammer is
yea, its this pic again.....
Everything is closing, the 1/4, us drifters, the SCCA guys ... not sure what we're gonna do ... 
