hey guys...i am in the process of ordering subframe connectors for my 1991 Z from spohn...any1 have these connectors from spohn?? would you reccomend them?? also i dont feel like spendin the extra $ on powdercoating...any1 have any probs with the bare 1n's?? thanx

 

They will just rust like everthing else on the underbody.

 

i am going to coat some underbody parts with por-15 or something close to it after i getmy spohn sfc's welded up.

run a search on spohn sfc's most people like them alot.

 

POR-15 is the cats ***! Every bare metal part under my car has been coated with it. It is not exactly cheap but well worth the investment. I paid about 35$ for a quart of it and another 30$ for a galon of the Metal Ready acid etcher. I love the POR-15 so much that I have even gone as far as to coat my 10 bolt with it and the front k-member and every other bare metal part in between. I also have painted my engine block with it during my 383 build up. With all that coating I still have about 1 third of the quart left so it goes a long way.

All in all I would highly recomend getting the bare SFCs and coating them with POR-15.

 

Pic

 

Omni... Did you just paint right over the first picture. or did you sand it down first and then paint it w/ POR 15. Also, if you did do this, which grit of sandpaper did you use and was it sanded by hand?
btw. it looks 100x better. and you basically inspired me to do this project next. It looks Niceeeeeee

 

05kcilS

All the parts were first dropped from the car, nothing was painted while it hung in the underbody. I have an aircompresor so I bought the el cheapo deluxe 20$ sandblaster gun from a locall auto body shop and proceeded to blast all the parts with 3$ bags of medium grit industrial sand from Lowes. I imagine you could probablly just run some paper over the parts though depending how bad they are but what is really important is to get them fully degreased prior to the sanding process, I used the "Oil Eater" that I bought at Costco but anything would work like Superclean or Simplegreeen. If hand sanding I would use 40 grit followed by 100 grit or something like that.

1. Remove parts from car
2. Fully wash and degrease all nasty parts
3. Snadblast or sand all cleaned parts getting rid of the big chuncks of rust, POR 15 bonds to rust so you dont have to get down to bare metal
4. After sanding wash all parts down with water
5. Etch all parts with Metal Ready acid, sold right next to POR 15
6. After etching for 20 mins wash parts with water again and allow to dry
7. Coat all parts in POR 15.

By the way this was not exactly an easy job as I invested much time but the results to me were well worth the efforts.

 

Also you need to get the metal very dry. Por-15 has compound that repels water away from the metal it's up against. If there's water on the metal as you coat it with por-15 it will hold that water against the metal and rust it. They recommend you use a hair dryer on all the metal before painting.

As I want to point out for you people that think you can get away without etching first it's not a good idea usually. I painted my roll bar without any etching first and it stuck pretty good except two spots where I had minor very small lines where it didn't stick. On the rear steel plates I painted them then went back 5 minutes later only to find out that the paint had turned to beads (part of the special chemical compound). I tried repainting it again and the same thing happened. It usually sticks good to rusted or pitted surfaces, like my roll bar since it sat 2 weeks in garage rusting.. oops

Also another point is steel comes out of the factory with a coating on it and any degreaser you use on the metal will have to cleaned off with metal ready etcher stuff first for the POR-15 to stick properly.

Also becareful not to get any water or other liquid in the container you're paint from (even sweat). I received papers with my pint saying a single drop can be enough to cause the paint not to stick.