Hi, I've read through the recent posts about fuel additives, and it appears STP's Fuel Injector cleaner is preferred.

Have any of you heard about BGK44?

I tried two cans of it into the gas tank, when I first got my 85 IROC at 65k miles, and the rough idle smoothed out.

I'm still getting that stalling condition when I first start up, especially if the weather is warm.

I'm getting the plugs, wires, O2, 4 belts, and the thermostat replaced today, so hopefully that'll fix it.



Rick

 

All I know is that it is not cheap. I've seen it in a few dealerships. I've had the best results out of the stp stuff in the silver bottle.

Also, if you have a carbed or tbi car, try some carb cleaner. That will help too. I use the gumout variety. I've seen some nasty stuff wash out of them before.

 

only use lucas oil products. lucas fuel treatment works great, that stp stuff ,i have heard bad things and dont use it,or try a bottle of heet.

 

Heard bad stuff about lucas
products too. Some people have had good results at the same time. I guess it is all relative to your tastes and the condition of your engine. Personaly, I've never had a problem with STP products. Most of the time, people have a real problem and then they buy a product like that thinking it will fix it. Only to be disappointed when it didn't.

 

Seafoam, it's awsome!

 

how do you use the sea foam?

 

depends on what you want to use it for, can has directions.

 

I heard other people say it was great stuff. Can you get it at the local parts house or is an order item like royal purple?

 

We stock it at Advance Auto Parts, should be able to get it there.

 

Okay, the problem I was having was intermittent stalling when I start the engine first thing in the morning. This symptom occurs more frequently on hot days than cold.

I've tried two cans of BG44k so far, and the car stopped varying RPMs at idle. A month later, I tried the STG's Fuel Injector cleaner too, with no effect.

Two days ago, I brought it in to get the fuel injectors cleaned, and it disappeared for about a day or so.

I tried Seafoam this afternoon, and will post in the next few days with the results. I poured 1/2 pint in, but no smoke though, black or white...

 

Have you changed the fuel filter?

 

Oh, and what engine do you have?

 

I recently bought a CD2 product from wal mart. It says lead additive but it is not. It is compatible with FI and one bottle treats up to 160 gallons. It was like 6 dollars and it made a hufe differnce in my car.

 

Yep, about 2k miles ago, and its an 85 IROC with the 305 TPI.

I had the tune up with the new parts, by the way.

Bosch Platinums
MSD 8.5
PCV Valve
Bosch O2 sensor
4 new V belts
and that fuel injector cleaning i mentioned above.

 

I'm not sure about how the tpi is laid out. But I had some cars before do something very similiar. There was a leak in the intake hose behind the MAF. Caused all kinds of trouble, including jumpy idling, stalling , etc..

 

Okay, no luck, I went through two applications (1/2 pint each) of that Seafoam into the PCV valve, and the car still wants to stall on a hot day, the first time I start it.

I ran a pint into the gas tank, but I'm skeptical at this point.

I've just ordered AutoRX... prolly not going to solve the problem, but perhaps I'll get better mileage with it.

Surprisingly, I'm averaging the same mpg as my 4 cyl 04 Sonata.

 

At this point I would just give up on the additives. They aren't solving the problem, which they usually don't.

When is the stalling happening at startup? Obviously more when it is hot out, but just idiling in park, in drive, while driving, driving under load, and or at what RPM. When it stalls does it just up and quit or does it sputter out? If you give it gas does it recover? Does stop when the engine is warm? I would start looking at what is going on with the engine and make a diagnosis instead of throwing money away.

 

Its stalling right after startup, with the transmission in Park. The RPMs jump to 5-10k upon starting, then the revs lower until it stalls.

If I gas it, I can avoid the stalling. If I start it up, up to 4-5 hours later, its fine. After that, on a hot day, the symptoms reappear...

Any thoughts?

 

What motor do you have?

Whoops, you already answered that, sorry. Are there any codes being set?

 

Check out this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...keeps+stalling

This should give you a solid starting point. Basically as I said, check the MAF. Check behind it and other areas for a vaccum
leak. Same thing for the EGR valve. Most likely, you find your problem somewhere in there.

 

Oh, okay, thanks. Incidentally, the Check Engine light does come on after I bring it up to 75mph. It disappears the next time I start the engine though.

I'll wait awhile before taking your suggestions...all this work is getting pricey!

 

I am rather embarrassed to say this but I had a slight miss at idle and surging at idle that would kill the engine in drive at a stop light. I tried all the suggestions about the idle air valve, idle speed sensor, EGR valve, gallons of fuel injector cleaner, computer, O2 sensor, check and recheck all that I could think of and others that I things I didn't. Then I read in my TPI swappers book about measuring the resistance (ohms) through the injectors. I did and found one very low (9) and another marginal at 11 ohms. Should be 15 to 16 ohms. Through Summit I ordered two MSD injectors and installed them 50 miles ago. I also changed changed all of the injectors O-rings. The engine runs smooth and strong now. The lesson I learned? Check all possible things before changing parts or hoping the cheap and easy miracle cure will fix a true broken component. I fill so stupid but the TPI GTA is running again ane passing tuners.

 

I wish I had the knowledge and time to troubleshoot and tune my car, but the sad fact is that I take the suggestions from the boards and bring the car to the shop to implement. I just learned last week where the PCV valve was; otherwise, I would have had a mechanic add the Seafoam.

I tried changing the O2 sensor myself a month back...I had located that part in the engine compartment by chance. The Chiltons guide shows a picture of the part, but not in relation to where it is in the engine compartment. I tried twisting it off... no luck. I also tried changing the thermostat myself, but realized that operation to be more involved than expected. The intake needed to be taken off to get to the bolts, I think.

Its my daily driver, so I'm reluctant to leave it in an unassembled state.

Where do you guys get your knowledge from? Did you learn from a friend, by yourself, from school, etc?

 

Trial and error, plus a haynes manual. I was also fortunate to have my Dad available who is extremely knowledgable. I began working on them when I turned 16 and kept building ever since. You need to buy yourself a decent tool set to begin with if you haven't yet. About a $100 will get a decent set of Craftsman, around 90 pieces. That would be a start.

As far as the thermostat. It's not that difficult to get to. It's having the right tools that make a difference. As far as my suggestion goes. All you need to do is a visual inspection. Make sure the clamps are tight, there aren't any cracks or holes in the air duct. It doesn't take a genius to spot what may cause an air leak.

Keep plugging away at it. Even if you don't have anyone with experience around you have us here

Just remeber search your problem out and if you don't find the answer ask. I have found that if you respond,pm, or e-mail someone over an old post, they are happy to respond.

 

Thanks vrtc350; I might hit yall up sometime when I replace my radiator...