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Stainless,...... I wish Joe ! I put everything I had - and more - into that car the last time I restored it. This will be the last set off headers I ever install into 'Mean Green'.
Thanx for the PM Don,....... I send a quick response last night. Trying to organize things a bit here so I can accept your offer.
I have a set of Hooker 2055's on mine that are HPC coated from a company here in Utah. 8 years now and no rust except where the AIR tubes broke and had to be welded.
finally got my 383 in and dyno don's headers and Y fit with no issues. I don't have a under car pic but here is the mock up on the engine stand. oil pan in Canton 244T
do you have decent clearance with the starter and that oil pan? I have dons headers too and would like to run that pan but was afraid my aftermarket mini starter would be too big.
do you have decent clearance with the starter and that oil pan? I have dons headers too and would like to run that pan but was afraid my aftermarket mini starter would be too big.
plenty of room, I'll take some pics for you tonight of that area.
finally got my 383 in and dyno don's headers and Y fit with no issues. I don't have a under car pic but here is the mock up on the engine stand. oil pan in Canton 244T
That's a nice oil pan.
Most people don't have issues with the pan, if I recall most people (that) have issues with the left side hitting the frame.
do you have decent clearance with the starter and that oil pan? I have dons headers too and would like to run that pan but was afraid my aftermarket mini starter would be too big.
After seeing the pics I had posted back in April I got a message from Don offering some assistance with my headers. I was glad to accept about 1/2 of what Don proposed and promptly shipped my headers back to him.
After completing the proposed work to my headers they were returned to me in the time-frame that was presented before I shipped them back. I got them back in June but was unable to re-install till recently.
Here's what they look like now:
I do not know if the "fit" of my headers was ever evaluated while they were in Don's possession,.... I was insistent that the originally purchased headers
were returned to me to avoid any potential problems when re-installing them to the originally installed exhaust system. ( didn't want any sealing problems. )
While my initial dealings with regards to these headers was,...... less than satisfactory; I'm posting today to express my gratitude. Thank you Don for your unexpected offer to assist me and for the prompt return of my parts.
It won't bolt to your stock y-pipe. Two options, order the Dyno-Don y-pipe or custom fabricate the ends of your stock y-pipe to fit the Dyno-Don Headers. That is why I offer for sale the flared ends on my site so you can have an exhaust shop use them to custom fit the header to your stock y-pipe.
Hows it going, im interested in ordering a pair of headers and single cat y pipe.
Currently i have hooker short tube 2055 and y pipe with air tubes cut off. What i dont like about the hooker headers is where it the meets the head the exhuast tubes stick up past the flange and has a small area for gasket to seal.
I rebuilt the 5.7 motor and stroked it to 383, all new internals. As to imformation you might need i have afr 180 heads, new poly motor mounts, and aftermarket oil pan (dont know brand).
The problem with my current set up besides the small primaries of the hooker headers and the flange not being flat after i rebuilt the motor the y pipe didnt meet to the header flanges due to poly monts, new heads and the space between oil pan and k member is tight making the y pipe need to sit a little lower. I had to chop the y pipe and extend it to meet the header flanges, week later i bottomed out and crushed the y pipe.
I want to fix all my problems at once and your headers seems like the best option. If you could message me back or email me at williamshockey12@gmail.com it would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks, anthony williams
Question for those of you that have the Dyno Don headers on your car. Do any of your header tube start to glow while the holding the engine at 2500rpms or higher? I had an issue with the number 7 tube turning cherry red and narrowed it down to a bent exhaust valve. I had both heads completely rebuilt and now the engine is running like it should but while trying to force air out of the engines coolant passages, I noticed that the number 7 and number 8 primary tubes were starting to turn red. Engine runs smooth. Timing is at 6 degree BTDC. fuel pressure is at 40psi. Plugs looked grayish gold. Car is not overheating.
Do I have another issue here do will these tubes do this because of the thickness of them and material they made from added with the act that there is no airflow going through the engine while the engine is holding a steady 2500rpm for a couple minutes.
Last edited by BOTTLEDZ28; Oct 15, 2016 at 12:23 PM.
Thats what I thought when this whole ordeal started 6 weeks ago after I installed the headers and had the number 7 tube glowing. That turned out to be a bent exhaust valve. So, after pulling the heads and having them completely gone through, I put them back on along with a TPIS intake, SLP runners, AFPR and Bosch III injectors from FIC. I have the fuel pressure set at 41 with it idling with the vacuum line connected. its 50 or so with the line disconnected.
I ran the engine at 2500RPM for a minute to purge an air bubbles from the cooling system as well as listen and look for anything wrong. Thats when I noticed the same header tube starting to turn a pale orange. I looked at the rest and the #8 was doing the same thing.
The picture of the plug in my last post is from cylinder 7. I pulled a few other easy plugs and they all look the same as 7. I figured I would ask here since a few of you guys are running these headers. Just not sure if I have something wrong or if its just a combination of scenarios taking place that are making the tubes get hot. FWIW, I checked the temp of all of them with a point and shoot thermometer about 1" past the head flange and they were all within 30 degrees or so. The engine runs smooth and I out about 20 miles on it yesterday with no issues. I checked the headers throughout my drive and they were not glowing. I was running with no hood on the car.
Im just hoping that maybe, just maybe, the thin wall of the tubes and the lack of air flow while in the garage caused the back two tubes to do this.
What I cant have is these headers doing this in the middle of the summer while I am sitting in traffic. They will literally catch something on fire.
Thats what I thought when this whole ordeal started 6 weeks ago after I installed the headers and had the number 7 tube glowing. That turned out to be a bent exhaust valve. So, after pulling the heads and having them completely gone through, I put them back on along with a TPIS intake, SLP runners, AFPR and Bosch III injectors from FIC. I have the fuel pressure set at 41 with it idling with the vacuum line connected. its 50 or so with the line disconnected.
I ran the engine at 2500RPM for a minute to purge an air bubbles from the cooling system as well as listen and look for anything wrong. Thats when I noticed the same header tube starting to turn a pale orange. I looked at the rest and the #8 was doing the same thing.
The picture of the plug in my last post is from cylinder 7. I pulled a few other easy plugs and they all look the same as 7. I figured I would ask here since a few of you guys are running these headers. Just not sure if I have something wrong or if its just a combination of scenarios taking place that are making the tubes get hot. FWIW, I checked the temp of all of them with a point and shoot thermometer about 1" past the head flange and they were all within 30 degrees or so. The engine runs smooth and I out about 20 miles on it yesterday with no issues. I checked the headers throughout my drive and they were not glowing. I was running with no hood on the car.
Im just hoping that maybe, just maybe, the thin wall of the tubes and the lack of air flow while in the garage caused the back two tubes to do this.
What I cant have is these headers doing this in the middle of the summer while I am sitting in traffic. They will literally catch something on fire.
My #7 and #6 is doing the same thing and I'm pulling my hair out. I just ordered a new set of injectors to see if maybe some of mine are erratic.
I'm running stainless headers, but either way I don't think your problem is related to headers at all.
Are you sure the valve isn't too tight?
Common sense tells me it can't be a timing issue cuz it would happen on all cylinders. A fueling issue is possible if an injector is pooched, but I'm worried on my own car that it might be a valve issue.
When I did the valvelash setting, I went 3/4 turns. There were a couple that still needed a bit more after I fired the engine but those were not the #7 and 8 valves. I'd really like to pull the covers and adjust the lash while the engine is running but it makes a mess.
When I did the valvelash setting, I went 3/4 turns. There were a couple that still needed a bit more after I fired the engine but those were not the #7 and 8 valves. I'd really like to pull the covers and adjust the lash while the engine is running but it makes a mess.
Been doing it that way for 20+ years. Just use cardboard, and don't rev the motor past idle.
You could also swap the injector to another cylinder to rule that out.
Like I said, I'm still trying to find mine but I suspect it's the injector. Although I'm tempted to do another valve adjustment this week just to be sure.
Been doing it that way for 20+ years. Just use cardboard, and don't rev the motor past idle.
You could also swap the injector to another cylinder to rule that out.
Like I said, I'm still trying to find mine but I suspect it's the injector. Although I'm tempted to do another valve adjustment this week just to be sure.
-- Joe
I just put new Bosch 3 injectors in this engine when I did the recent work. The injectors were bought from Fuel Injection Connection and were flow tested prior to shipping them to me. They were installed 3 weeks ago. Im 99.99% sure its not the injectors. Im 100% sure its not the timing. This leaves us with valve lash adjustment, bent valves or thin wall tubing on headers and lack of air flow to the rear tubes.
lash....could be and I will have to check on that
bent valves....no way since Ijust had the heads rebuilt
thin wall tubing and no air flow....could be and thats why Im here asking others who have these same headers.
If you held a steady 2500RPM on the engine while parked, would the rear tubes start to turn a slight silverish orange just at the bend in the tube as it leaves the head..
HEY DON - I have an 87 Iroc with the Edelbrock headers. Of course i am in need of the y pipe....mine is shot. Have been reading a lot of posts and i am confident you are the man!! Can you send me an email? nanglejoanne@gmail.com - i really don't want to have to buy new headers too Thanks - Joanne
Pulled Mean Green out of the garage for the first time and washed the winter layer of dust off it a few weeks ago. I saw this starting to really show up again last summer but didn't want to believe it was real:
Lucky if I put 2000 miles a season on it for the each of the last 4 years due to a bad clutch knee during the driving season. Really kind of sad that the steel parts I blasted and spay-bomb painted 6 YEARS AGO held up better than the finish on these headers,... that were fresh coated twice during that same time
Pulled Mean Green out of the garage for the first time and washed the winter layer of dust off it a few weeks ago. I saw this starting to really show up again last summer but didn't want to believe it was real:
Lucky if I put 2000 miles a season on it for the each of the last 4 years due to a bad clutch knee during the driving season. Really kind of sad that the steel parts I blasted and spay-bomb painted 6 YEARS AGO held up better than the finish on these headers,... that were fresh coated twice during that same time
It's not his fault ... at least my experience has been that NOTHING holds up long-term on headers, including ceramic. My hookers look terrible these days. I'm looking at new headers but there doesn't seem to be anything out there in SS these days. I won't use anything else going forward, might have to make them myself.
It's not his fault ... at least my experience has been that NOTHING holds up long-term on headers, including ceramic. My hookers look terrible these days. I'm looking at new headers but there doesn't seem to be anything out there in SS these days. I won't use anything else going forward, might have to make them myself.
What size primary are you looking for? I have the SS 1 3/4" long tubes and they are great.
Nice, but they are long tubes, and for autos only.
I suspect Dyno Don's appealed to many because they are shorties, and follow the stock exhaust route.
Nice, but they are long tubes, and for autos only.
I suspect Dyno Don's appealed to many because they are shorties, and follow the stock exhaust route.
I ran them on a manual for a while with a hydraulic TOB. I'm not sure what the appeal is of shorty headers. At the time my concern was performance and corrosion resistance. I had an 800hp thirdgen though, I think a lot of the guys that have these are running stockish TPI.
I ran them on a manual for a while with a hydraulic TOB. I'm not sure what the appeal is of shorty headers. At the time my concern was performance and corrosion resistance. I had an 800hp thirdgen though, I think a lot of the guys that have these are running stockish TPI.
I ran them on a manual for a while with a hydraulic TOB. I'm not sure what the appeal is of shorty headers. At the time my concern was performance and corrosion resistance. I had an 800hp thirdgen though, I think a lot of the guys that have these are running stockish TPI.
-- Joe
I might have to try to remember to send you a PM about the details of whatever headers you ran with the 800 hp setup. I will be digging deep into the headers topic in January, in hopes of finding a proper header for my application. I don't want to clutter this thread up and change the topic, but what ones/size/length/brand were they?
I might have to try to remember to send you a PM about the details of whatever headers you ran with the 800 hp setup. I will be digging deep into the headers topic in January, in hopes of finding a proper header for my application. I don't want to clutter this thread up and change the topic, but what ones/size/length/brand were they?
The typical ebay stainless 1 3/4" long tube I posed above. I ran them for years without issue. Motor is 412" with AFR 210 heads, vortech T-trim supercharger, etc. Was a decent combo, a little too wild for the street though.
yes indeed, pipe max will be used for sure, and you two guys and a few others who have a big knowledge base on performance exhaust systems will be a big help. Sometime early January. Those ebay 1.75 long tubes are definitely in my price range, and if you wan 800 hp through them, I will be good with the approx 700 hp I am making when the nitrous is flowing. Cool. I'll let this conversation get back to the DynoDon's headers and in a few weeks I will start my own exhaust thread. Thanks fellas
Merry Christmas! I was wondering if you still were making the headers and what the cost would be. At the moment I have a 75 350 in my camaro and would also like to know if these need a custom y pipe or if they fit factory.
Merry Christmas! I was wondering if you still were making the headers and what the cost would be. At the moment I have a 75 350 in my camaro and would also like to know if these need a custom y pipe or if they fit factory.
Yes
I am still making them
Requires matching y-pipe.
Yes
I am still making them
Requires matching y-pipe.
Hi Don,
I just ordered a set for a swap off of TDS. I wrote them requesting a black finish as you said they were available in on a thread I found a while back. But they replied informing me they weren’t available in black. Is that right?
Yes
I am still making them
Requires matching y-pipe.
Hey Don, are you making anything that matches/resembles the old Hooker super comp full-lengths? Mine are getting a little long in the tooth, and I really want to step up to something similar in stainless.
Hey Don, are you making anything that matches/resembles the old Hooker super comp full-lengths? Mine are getting a little long in the tooth, and I really want to step up to something similar in stainless.
I got no response from here, from TDS or from Don’s email address. So if it’s not on the TDS website, don’t expect a response lol
Hey Don, are you making anything that matches/resembles the old Hooker super comp full-lengths? Mine are getting a little long in the tooth, and I really want to step up to something similar in stainless.
Awesome, thank you. Is there a noticible difference in power or is mostly sound?
Headers free up power your engine already has. You'll definitely hear the sound but it'll also wake up the motor 15-25hp because the factory logs are restrictive. How much you'll "feel" it depends on you really. I noticed when I installed my headers. Have you done sub frame connectors yet?
Thanks - Joanne 
