Anyone using this system? I just installed it on my .040 350 with a B&M 142.

 

let us know how it works for you. I've been looking at it also.

 

So far the system is working very well. Very easy to install I am still in the process of tuning it. The car runs better then ever when making passes. Afr stays where I want it. The only issue im having is a quick hesitation when getting back into the throttle after a shift or decel (light throttle only) sounds to me like some kind of accel pump tuning needs to be worked out. I just sent data logs to the techs at fitech and they are helping me straighten it out and they are very easy and a pleasure to work with. No complaints yet because i know nothing works perfect instantly and im sure it will be straightened out.

 

Very cool, let us know how it goes. I have a C&S aerosol carb that cost be about $1200 like 4 years ago for my blow thru setup. Car is apart getting a minitub and a paint job so I can't say how well it ran, but if I ever decide to move up to EFI, this company sounds great.

 

I took a datalog of a pull here top one shows which colums im viewing and bottom one above the red line shows at about 6300rpm and 6.1 psi afr is sticking in the low to mid 11s on the safe side where i like it

 

I have a thread that I started a while back.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...techs-new.html

 

Well I am currently using it so i can awnser some questions from what ive learned about it so far.. was wondering if anyone elce is currently using the system and how its working for them.. took a quick look at one of the replys on your post about if the sensors are off the shelf and I can tell you they are GM style sensors and i belive a bosch O2

 

I am glad you are having good luck with it and the company is working with you to work the bugs out. I am glad most companies have pushed to put out a more affordable unit.

What fuel system are you using? Would a stock TPI fuel pump put out enough flow/PSI for this unit?

 

I wanted it clean so i stuck a AEM 320lph intank pump in and replaced the rubber connections with efi hose. Im not 100% sure on what the tpi pump puts out but i belive the unit requires 43-58 lbs. It has a built in regulator in the tbi unit so all you have to do is supply it with fuel and a return

 

Yeah, I figured a upgraded pump would be best, Although a stock 350 TPI pump should push out enough. Might be on the low end though.

 

i just ordered one of their kits too, should have it in about a week.
was wondering what intake you are using. i need to pick one up

 

Im using a B&M 142 mini blower for an intake.

 

oh nice. im planning on going down a similar path later on but staying N/A for now.

 

Do you have any pics? What type a clear are you running? Stock hood?

 

I am curious about this fitting under the stock hood, too, but with a carb hat on it on a dual plane intake. I am seriously considering this system and running it on my 305 before I even buy my LS. From what I have read I really like the sound of the company and their support.

 

i don't think there's gonna be a fitment issue under stock hood.
choice of intake manifold may have an effect.
http://www.fitechefi.com/virtualoffice_files/30001.PDF

 

Im running a blower and a 1 inch spacer plate, so stock hood is out of the question for me lol.. I have a 5 inch cowl I made and it clears by about 1/2 an inch

 

but if you plan on running an ls I wouldn't bother save your money for one of these stand alone systems designed for the ls, and besides they are a new company, they might come out with a multiport setup designed for the ls, if you check out there facebook they seem to have a multiport system in testing so they obviously aren't just going to do throttle bodies.

 

I'm seriously considering one of these kits. I've seen some type of alternative tank they have with it's own installed electric fuel pump. Would allow me to run my existing mechanical pump, which would supply the tank instead of the carb.

Otherwise, I'd need to install an electric in-tank pump and re-do my fuel system to support the FItech since my car has always been a carb setup. It seems like a really neat system though. I'm a little undecided on whether I'm going to keep the blower I have or step up to something much bigger like a 6 or 8-71.

If I decide to keep my current blower, I know I'm going to come somewhat close to maxing out the single 600HP throttle body system that FItech has. Next bigger kit for blown applications is the twin throttle body setup which should work out real nice for a 8-71 blower!

Decisions, decisions....

 

Bondospecial ran a similar setup with a reserve tank in the engine bay. Works fine.

-- Joe

 

Hey Joe!

I missed this post from a few months ago!

I "bit the bullet" so to speak, and bought the FITech system. I still need to install it....hard to find time with my working schedule, but I'll get to it soon. Since I last posted, they have a single throttle body system good up to 1200 HP!! So - I got one of those along with the Fuel Command Center....which is good up to 800 HP...so I'll be good for now.

I could have got the cheaper 600 HP system and made due, but the 1200 system leaves me room to grow if I want.

 

Just picked up the 600 system myself. Good to know that someone will be doing the install in parallel with me.

 

Got mine mounted, hope to get it fired up this week

 

Wow...must be nice to run it on a engine dyno right away! I'd be curious to see if there's any power difference between a carb and the FI. I'm guessing you'll see power gains in the mid range, but it should be close at WOT....

I should be starting the install on mine next week...BTW, I thought you only needed one fuel line to the throttle body?

 

Gonna be doing a run with carb too, just to see
I'll post back when I have some numbers

 

One feed line and a return

 

That would be great!
Ahhh...so you must be running your own electric fuel pump or FITech's inline pump? -Or is it a pump just for the dyno? I'm not doubting you know what you're doing, just trying to understand....At least from what I've been reading about FITech's Fuel Command Center - there's no return line required.

Once it's in a car, the return will come off the reg valve?

 

I'm very glad FiTech came out with a more affordable setup compared to the more expensive FAST, Holley, etc. Definitely staying tuned to this thread for updates. I still ahve about 2 years before I have a new engine but right now The FiTech systems are at the top of my list.

 

How's the software?

I emailed them a while back to see if they would sell the throttle body separate and they refused.

-- Joe

 

Kinda doesn't surprise me....almost everything is located in the throttle body...TPS, MAP, ECM, fuel regulator....90% of the system IS the throttle body. Just a few other sensors (O2, Coolant temp) and you've got the whole thing.

I don't know enough about software....I know it's self learning, and comes with a touchpad...but can be tweaked with a laptop too if you know what you're doing.

 

I am assuming that a drop base air cleaner will not work on it?

 

Holley has a new fuel injection system out called the Sniper for $995

 

Drop base filter won't work, at least the one I have wont

 

If it's similar to a Edelbrock carb the Allstar performance one should fit. The AN fittings on the TB might need to be 45*.

 

Now there's something I never thought about....it's a huge deal on my car since I run a roots blower!! I have a 4" cowl and with my current Edelbrock carb, it's almost touching the bottom of the hood.....oh boy. No doubt I'll need to run 45 degree fittings and hope for the best....

 

I have a 3" cowl with that air cleaner. Let me know if you need any measurements.

 

Thanks for the offer, but I doubt I'll need them. I'm already running a very similar air cleaner without the spacer and the wing nut on the air cleaner has touched the hood a couple of times.....so I know where I stand...

I may need 90 degree fittings on the throttle body instead of 45's....or I'm not going to run an air cleaner...

 

If you run the fuel command center, you don't need a return line, but you will have run a vent line from the fuel command center to your gas tank. The reasons for the vent line is for the vapors and, also in case the float gets stuck inside the fuel command center, it dump the fuel in the tank instead of the ground. Also make sure the gas tank is vented too.

If you use in tank fuel pump or a inline pump, you will need a run a return line from the throttle body to the tank.

 

Funny, the vent on the fuel command center seems to be my biggest issue right now. It says in bold red print on the instructions that the Command Center vent must vent to the gas tank!! - No open vent line....

-My current setup is a mechanical Edelbrock pump (10 psi) which goes to a bypass (return type) Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator set to 7 psi for carb use. I have the regulator return line going back to the tank for anything in excess of 7 psi.

So I have this issue with the Fuel Command center....I can run the hose from my current fuel regulator to the supply fitting of the Command Center...no issue. I can run the high pressure hose from the Command Center to the Fitech throttle body..no issue. -But- how do I vent the Command Center to the tank??

About the only place I can fit this Command Center is right where my old carbon canister was....which, since I run a blower has not functioned for over 5 years now. I figure ideally, I can remove the carbon canister and run the tank vent hose that used to go to the carbon canister to the Command Center vent connection...that way there's a vent to the tank....but....I think I need to vent the tank now. Which to me, means I need to either tee off that same vent line and run it open-ended above my rear axle somewhere, or better yet....find a vented gas cap that will fit my tank.

Anyone know if anyone sells such a thing? I've heard of guys actually drilling holes in their existing gas caps, but IMO that would be kind of cheesy...

 

I'm not real sure. I guess you can look around and check other car models to see if any of them have a vented gas cap that would work with your car.

I have a FiTech that is going in my 72 Chevy C10. The way I'm going to run it is with mech. fuel pump and the fuel command center. Then use the coal canister line as my vent line back to the tank. On top of my tank, there is a hose that goes from the top of the tank to the filler neck. I'm going to put a tee in the hose then route it down by my cab corner since it will be able to vent out. My gas cap is non-vented.

Right now, I'm playing the waiting game for the fuel command center. I ordered it Feb. 14 and still don't know when it is shipping. Jegs product page says ships Mar. 9 and Summit says Mar. 29. These are selling fast. They also have a MPFI version coming out soon.

 

I thought our cars have a vent line for gas tank
There are four lines running from tank, feed,return,canister and a tank vent.

 

They have a MPFI version out now....looks like they updated their website. Depending on what you read, if a vehicle has a carbon canister, it should have a "vented" cap. Depending on what you read, some caps only "vent" to allow air in as fuel is being used to prevent a vacuum from building in the tank, but do not allow any air or vapors out of the tank if on a hot day the fuel and vapors expand. Any vapor is lead to the carbon canister and stored there and when the engine is started, it gets directed to the PCV or intake to burn off any vapors.

-Then there's others that say that the vented caps act as pressure/vacuum relief valves. Once enough of either builds up, they allow air in or vapors out.

I think I'll use the vent hose that went to the carbon canister and hook that hose up to the Command Center vent and see what happens.

Yes they do....
-a supply (feed) hose to the pump
-a return hose from the pump back to the tank
- a vent hose from the fuel tank to the carbon canister
- and the "canister" hose comes from the carbon canister to a solinoid controlled purge valve to the engine.

EDIT: It's amazing how little info there is on gas caps!! But, I found this after a whole bunch of searching about gas caps:
Gas cap, which usually contains some type of pressure/vacuum relief valve for venting on older vehicles (pre-OBD II), but is sealed completely (no vents) on newer vehicles (1996 & newer). NOTE: If you are replacing a gas cap, it MUST be the same type as the original (vented or nonvented).

-So it would seem if the above is correct, all pre-OBD II cars have a way to prevent pressure or vacuum buildup in their tanks.

 

If you guys are putting these on Thirdgens, I recommend you just get an EFI sending unit assembly and run an in-tank pump, and a return line to the tank.

-- Joe

 

-Joe, that's exactly the way I would have most likely went IF my car were fuel injected in the first place.
-But for us originally carbed guys, I didn't want to go through removing a gas tank and either figuring out how to install a electric pump in it, or changing out both the tank and pump for a fuel injected model (probably TPI unit). Heck, I'm not sure the TPI pump would supply enough pressure since the Fitech requires about 58 PSI...
-Other option was to run Fitech's inline pump and a new regulator, and go through the hassle of running high pressure lines all the way to the regulator. A viable option, but the Command Center has advantages over the inline pump...

 

All you need is a EFI fuel sending unit. I bought a new one when I changed my pump due to rust on the original. About $50.

Pumps run between 20 and 80psi. I have a Walbro 410lph pump on my application, but a 255lph works for most people under 600hp.

Since I did as close to a frame off (dissasemble, mediablast) as you can to a thirdgen, I replaced my lines anyway with coated 3/8" lines. The cost is about $30. I then run about 24" of -6 braided from the hard line to the intake.

To me it just makes sense to do it the OE way since the parts are available and very cheap. Plus, it gives you an opportunity to sand and coat your fuel tank

-- Joe

 

Sounds like a great setup...and you did it all for about 80 bucks? WOW...

I could return the Fuel Command Center and go that route myself, but I'm not doing a restoration, and I doubt I'd be able to do it as cheaply as you did...

I think I'll try the Command center. It has a 340 LPH pump good for 800 HP (supposedly) already, voltage control to slow the pump down when idling or low loads (so it'll last longer) plus no need for return - it's a win-win for me if I can find a good place to install it. I'm not putting out 800 HP....yet, but I bought the 1200 plus system with 8 injectors to allow me to add a Procharger or turbo later on if I want. I guess if I really crank up boost, I would need to change the fuel system and go with a 400+ LPH pump like you.

 

I'm planing on using factory set up also. Will be running new lines from EFI to tank for
Feed and return.

 

Can't wait to hear those dyno results!

 

This weekend hopefully ��

 

Carb
First pic


EFI
Second pic