I have a 1987 trans am GTA and I have not done any mods to it yet. I was wondering what some cheap and easy mids are. It's a 350 TPI.

 

The easiest mods that I have done is moving the intake air temp sensor located under the plenum. Now on my IROC I drilled a hole where the intake tube splits into two. You have to extend the wires and also twist them at least 9 times per foot in order for the computer not to recieve any magnetic interferience. This was the easiest and cheapest and so far the most benifical(seat of the pants feel) of improvement yet I have made. Good Luck

 

check out my sig.. those are the easiest and if any questions about price just ask?
and the Air temp Sensor really made that much of a diff? cool maybe i will change mine. thanks.

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1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
AFPR 49PSI, GUTTED AIR BOXES, K&N, RAM AIR, UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS, PORTED PLENUM, B&M SHIFTER, 3.23 LIMITED SLIP, DUAL CATS, STOCK SUPER TURBO EXHAUST, COOPER COBRA XST's

MUSTANGS...ONLY 4 LUGS....HAHA THAT IS HILARIOUS.

 

There are lots of things you can do!

Free Mods: This includs gutting the air box, by passing the throttle body coolant, take out the screens on your MAF senson, port your tpi plenum, and advance your timing.

 

alright forget that free stuff for now go buy some hedman headers like 140 bucks put them in yourself i did its easy. buy an intake whatever kind you want thats a start
then go to cam and get a shift kit for the tranny and maybe some suspension mods hope i helped

 

For two mods you can do yourself for basically no cash yet you will definitely notice look no further than porting your plenum and shimming your fuel pressure regulator for increased fuel pressure.

Right behind the throttle body, in the openings for the plenum, are a pair of "walls" that are shrouding some holes (egr related I beleive). These walls are seriously hurting your airflow through there by blocking about at least 10% of the openings. If you have a dremel you can easily grind them down flush w/ the openings. If you don't, a rotary file bit will also work in a standard electric drill (I did my two plenums like this originally, bit available at Sears or other hardware stores, use a wire brush to remove metal buildup from the bit frequently while you're porting). It doesn't take much time at all to do this mod and it is worth it.

While you have the plenum off for the porting you will also benefit from either installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator ($50-$75 bux) or you can accomplish the same effect w/ by using a shim (a quarter works for me) in the stock regulator to bump up the pressure. The FPR is the top hat looking part on the fuel rail. (make sure the car has sat for awhile, and you have bled the fuel system pressure w/ the schrader valve before removing this) The FPR is held on by like half a dozen "safety" torx screws. I believe it was a T-10 size. You can get a T10 tamper proof bit AKA safety torx bit at a local NAPA or similar auto parts store for a couple dollars. Make sure you're getting the safety bit and not a standard torx bit. Once you have the FPR off you simply place the shim (again, I used a simple quarter) in the top of the FRP housing (the top hat) above the spring assembly and reassemble. This accomplishes exactly what the $50+ AFPR does, which is increase pressure on the spring assembly thus requiring more fuel pressure to open the return line.

You should easily get 15-20 hp on a totally stock car by doing both of the mods together... More than worth it...

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Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray


[This message has been edited by Ray87Z (edited February 20, 2001).]