ARP Is Bad
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
ARP Is Bad
Ive been waiting and working on this car for so long now. I got my heads back from the machine. Put them on..I went to install the exhaust manifolds, and it turns out that the ARP bolt kit only has bolts for Headers, and they dont work with the factory exhaust manifolds. This really sucks...
Anyone else have this problem, and am I going to run into this problem with the other bolts in the kit.
And i called ARp to find out, and their tech support sucked also.
Anyone else have this problem, and am I going to run into this problem with the other bolts in the kit.
And i called ARp to find out, and their tech support sucked also.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
ARP makes the best bolts known to man. You got a bolt kit for the engine, and it assumed you have headers, and you're using manifolds? That's the beef? I guess you need longer bolts/studs eh?
or.... I dunno.... Use headers? I mean, c'mon now...
or.... I dunno.... Use headers? I mean, c'mon now...
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
Im sure their great bolts and everything, but when I buy a SBC 305 bolt kit i expect it to have the bolts for what an sbc 305 comes with, whic is exhaust manifolds. Anyways....The guy who said go to homedepot and get some....do I need some special kind of bolts or washer to go with them. I dont want them rattling loose. Thanks
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From: NY
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3:73s!
Im sure their great bolts and everything, but when I buy a SBC 305 bolt kit i expect it to have the bolts for what an sbc 305 comes with, whic is exhaust manifolds. Anyways....The guy who said go to homedepot and get some....do I need some special kind of bolts or washer to go with them. I dont want them rattling loose. Thanks
Lock washers are used, they wont losen up. ARP makes bolts for preformance engines. You really dont use manifolds for preformance apps. Header bolts are like a 3/4 of a inch long. Maniold bolts are like 2 inches long.....DEE DEE DEEE!!!!
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
They don't have to be super strong bolts, it's not a crazy high strength app. Grade 2 wouldn't work, 'cuz those are junk, grade 5 or 8 or SS would work ok. Use lock washers, split rings. I used allen bolts, since they make ratchet access easiest (but that's with headers, if you have that problem with your manifolds, you can take the same route.. .then use "hi-collar" lock washers.
Use anti seize on the bolts, if you ever want to get them out again (for when you decide to go for headers
Copper antiseize by permatex works well for me.
Use anti seize on the bolts, if you ever want to get them out again (for when you decide to go for headers

Copper antiseize by permatex works well for me.
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From: Port Angeles, Wa
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
Well this just makes a good excuse to put those expensive bolts to good use and install a set of headers. At least thats what usually happens to me I get carried away easily
haha.
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From: in a house
Car: 71 chevelle, 73 camaro, 94 probe
Engine: 408 bbc, 360 sbc, 2.5l v-6
Transmission: 4spd, 3spd, 5spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 4:10, 10 bolt 3:42, stock
If you want to match what you have you can order their 5 packs of bolts. 6 and 12 point heads, stainless or black, 3/8" thread with 3/8" head from .500" to 5.00" or 7/16" head from .500" to 4.00", all in .250 length increments. Page 77 and 78 of their onling catalog. I think they even come with washers.
If time is an issue put it together with what you have then swap them out one at a time when they show up.
If time is an issue put it together with what you have then swap them out one at a time when they show up.
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
ARP makes bolts for performance engines so of course they're going to include header bolts and not manifold bolts. If you're working on a stock 305SBC then buy a bolt kit for a STOCK 305 SBC ....
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From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
if you are doing all this work why do you still have exhause manifolds? and by the way when you order bolts they say "header bolts" not "exhaust manifold bolts" come on now...
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
ok then what about the intake manifold bolts??? Those dont fit either...This kit is completely useless unless I have all aftermarket parts. I have 20 holes on my intake manifold, and the kit comes with 12 bolts....This is gay....Keep an eye on the for sale section for this kit if anyone needs it.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,812
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From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
an intake manifold has 12 bolt holes because there are 12 bolts that hold down the intake manifold. the rest of the bolt holes are for "accessories" which vary by application and thus would not be included in the set. if you read the list of bolts that come with a engine bolt set they are as follows motor mount intake manifold HEADERS valve covers oil pan timing cover water pump thermostat fuel pump disctributer and alternator brackets. i seem to see the word HEADER in that list and EXHAUST MANIFOLDS are not headers. also nowhere in the list is any mention of accessories. read first, dont bitch at the greatest bolt supplier in the world. as so expertly stated before DEE-DEE-DEEEE!!!
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From: Bay Area, CA
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: Roller 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: built ten bolt 3.73's
ok then what about the intake manifold bolts??? Those dont fit either...This kit is completely useless unless I have all aftermarket parts. I have 20 holes on my intake manifold, and the kit comes with 12 bolts....This is gay....Keep an eye on the for sale section for this kit if anyone needs it.
a) You had the heads or block surfaced to some extent and are not to factory specs anymore.
b) you are working with older parts that have at somepoint have warpped slightly from general use and do not posess true surfaces.
c) you bought a kit that is not designed for your application.
I use arp bolts in everything I build with great sucess.
This may come off harsh but let me make a brief parallel. I work in the firearms industry. I routinely encounter individuals that buy high end custom pistols. And routinely I here at least one at every outing b*tch about how his super expensive piece is infact a POS and that it is worthless. When I observe them use there guns it is in fact the user that doesn't know what the hell they are doing. Basically if you don't know what the h*ll you are getting into, don't bother buying it. The part is not worthless the user...
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From: stuart fl
Car: 82 camaro
Engine: 434 ci
Transmission: t400
Axle/Gears: 9'' 4.10 gear
Work on your bicycle, leave the car alone & please do not try and work on the brakes. Take an automitive class, learn something before you slander someones name.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 670
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From: Michigan
Car: 1984 Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: 355
Transmission: Th-350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Yea,what he said just more of it,just kidding, but get your facts straight before talking down a company that makes top of the line products.
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From: Okinawa, Japan
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 w/Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I agree ARP IS the BEST company. I have them on everything including internal parts. Which is way more important then intake and other bolts. If these fail bye bye engine. Trust me if you use ARP bolt and studs to the company instructions they will not fail and if they DO ARP will fix what there product broke. I've seen it on race motors and there were no questions asked.
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
Alright man..Im allowed to rant and rave.....And this is the Vendor review of the product. When I called the vendor to find out what was going on teh tech dept didnt know squat as far as bolts go...Well anyways..Everything is sorted out, and IT WAS A MISTAKE ON ARPS END!!!!! just to let you guys know. the kit I had was 534-9802, and only one of the shrinkwrap inserts in the box were correct. The other was out of another kit....SO whoever said I should work on a bike can kiss my a***...there you go guys....OH yeah...and im sorry about talking bad about the company because they are replacing with the correct kit for free...later
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
Yeah the pic in summit catalog showed a fold out nice looking display...What I got was a box with (2) shrink wrapped cardboard pieces with the bolts shrink wrapped to them....And the reason why I was also pissed was the when they labeled them the labels are nowhere near the bolts that are shrinkwrapped. I mean the labels can pertain to any bolt thats stuck to teh cardboard. Really horrible packaging, and even worse support. But hey they are replacing for free...so its ok!!. ....Now you guys know why the I titled this this way....btw...it was ordered from Summit too. I dont see why you guys vouch for this company...maybe i just got teh bad batch.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Try these guys here for stock exh man bolts.
They might not have the ones with the stud on them for a nut though; that might be a junkyard-only type of thing. I have no clue (and I don't know about the studs either).
Yeah a bad batch, or mis-boxed somehting or other, can happen to about anybody. Doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad company. Now if it happens EVERY TIME, or even just ALOT, then that's a different matter. But if it happens once and they take care of it, then that's about all you can hope for. I guess that's just one of the hazards of having to deal with humans. Humans suck.
They might not have the ones with the stud on them for a nut though; that might be a junkyard-only type of thing. I have no clue (and I don't know about the studs either).
Yeah a bad batch, or mis-boxed somehting or other, can happen to about anybody. Doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad company. Now if it happens EVERY TIME, or even just ALOT, then that's a different matter. But if it happens once and they take care of it, then that's about all you can hope for. I guess that's just one of the hazards of having to deal with humans. Humans suck.
I'd be a little more cautious about blanket statements such as that. After having spent 20 years in the fastener manufacturing industry (consumer, automotive, aerospace, etc.) with a Fortune 100 company, I can think of a handful of reasons that ARP might not always be "the best known to man." That's not to say they are not good, but they certainly don't set any standards.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
which company IS that vader?
for our application, I think ARP is usually the best bet as far as quality fasteners go. That's a little less of a blanket statement
for our application, I think ARP is usually the best bet as far as quality fasteners go. That's a little less of a blanket statement
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Reno, NV
Car: 1982 Z28 & 1967 RR/SS 396
Engine: ZZ383 & 375hp 396
Transmission: T56 & factory TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford & 12 bolt 4.10
As firedawg225 said "I agree ARP IS the BEST company. I have them on everything including internal parts. Which is way more important then intake and other bolts. If these fail bye bye engine. Trust me if you use ARP bolt and studs to the company instructions they will not fail and if they DO ARP will fix what there product broke. I've seen it on race motors and there were no questions asked."
I would not say ARP is the best company but for a company who stands behind their product they are the best in that area. My dragster makes almost 900 hp out of a highly modified cast iron small block chevy with no power adder or nos. The only bolt on that motor is an ARP. I also have a 68 Dart with a 526KB hemi in that probably make 2200 to 2300hp (never had it on the dyno). That motor also only has arp bolts on it. If you go to the drags probably 99% of the top teams are using ARP. Why???? Because their stuff is top notch. I have seen a bolts fail and Vader if you were in the fastner industry for many years I am sure that you have too. How a company deals with an issue or failure is a true statement of what type of company they are. If they are sending you out replacements at N/C obviously they care about you as a customer. That is a good company!
Just my two cents.
I would not say ARP is the best company but for a company who stands behind their product they are the best in that area. My dragster makes almost 900 hp out of a highly modified cast iron small block chevy with no power adder or nos. The only bolt on that motor is an ARP. I also have a 68 Dart with a 526KB hemi in that probably make 2200 to 2300hp (never had it on the dyno). That motor also only has arp bolts on it. If you go to the drags probably 99% of the top teams are using ARP. Why???? Because their stuff is top notch. I have seen a bolts fail and Vader if you were in the fastner industry for many years I am sure that you have too. How a company deals with an issue or failure is a true statement of what type of company they are. If they are sending you out replacements at N/C obviously they care about you as a customer. That is a good company!
Just my two cents.
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
Nobody is saying anything about the bolts not being of good quality. When I say ARP is bad I did not say that the bolts are weak or a low grade. Im sure the bolts are of the best quality, and material, but how they packaged the product and the support from the company is terrible. End of story. I dont care what anybody else says. The shrink wrap it came was horrible. The stickers that label the bolts were pasted nowhere near where the bolts were. Im done with this theard. Bolts are bolts, they all to pass a tensile and quality test. I feel as if I got ripped off. Later
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From: Canada
Car: 1979 Malibu
Engine: Blown LSx
Transmission: T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: 9"/wavetrac/35's/3.70
Yeah the pic in summit catalog showed a fold out nice looking display...What I got was a box with (2) shrink wrapped cardboard pieces with the bolts shrink wrapped to them....And the reason why I was also pissed was the when they labeled them the labels are nowhere near the bolts that are shrinkwrapped. I mean the labels can pertain to any bolt thats stuck to teh cardboard. Really horrible packaging, and even worse support. But hey they are replacing for free...so its ok!!. ....Now you guys know why the I titled this this way....btw...it was ordered from Summit too. I dont see why you guys vouch for this company...maybe i just got teh bad batch.
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Posts: 747
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From: Reno, NV
Car: 1982 Z28 & 1967 RR/SS 396
Engine: ZZ383 & 375hp 396
Transmission: T56 & factory TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford & 12 bolt 4.10
Nobody is saying anything about the bolts not being of good quality. When I say ARP is bad I did not say that the bolts are weak or a low grade. Im sure the bolts are of the best quality, and material, but how they packaged the product and the support from the company is terrible. End of story. I dont care what anybody else says. The shrink wrap it came was horrible. The stickers that label the bolts were pasted nowhere near where the bolts were. Im done with this theard. Bolts are bolts, they all to pass a tensile and quality test. I feel as if I got ripped off. Later
Maybe the bolts we packaged correctly and the lables were in the right place.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 396
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From: Okinawa, Japan
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 w/Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Nobody is saying anything about the bolts not being of good quality. When I say ARP is bad I did not say that the bolts are weak or a low grade. Im sure the bolts are of the best quality, and material, but how they packaged the product and the support from the company is terrible. End of story. I dont care what anybody else says. The shrink wrap it came was horrible. The stickers that label the bolts were pasted nowhere near where the bolts were. Im done with this theard. Bolts are bolts, they all to pass a tensile and quality test. I feel as if I got ripped off. Later
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From: Tiffin OHIO
Car: 1987 Iroc-z Convertible
agree with the comment about summit being a great company. and on the subject of ARP they are one of the best if not the best. top notch quality and as far as support not being to your liking my experiences with them have been great. If you have ever heard of Adams it is a racing spec water pump company, I picked up one of their pumps a while back and it was new but no packaging and I still haven't found a website for them anyway I went to put on my 406 and guess what it was a longer flange so the bolts weren't long enough. now was that ARP's fault? nope, same way with me using a one piece oil pan gasket from felpro bolts wouldn't fit and the billet aluminum timing cover. I definitely improvised but the water pump I called them about and they sent me the right ones n/c. could have done the rest to but I was in a hurry. anyway like I said good company.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Modesto, CA
Car: 1987 Formula 350
Engine: TPI 350
Transmission: 700R4
I'm not sure if you are still in need of the right sized bots but ARP has always taken care of me if I had a problem with one of their bolt kits.
Make a list of what bolts and hardware the engine bolt kit didn't come with that you need. Make sure you know the lengths and sizes you are in need of. Email ARP with a breif explanation and provide the list. I think you'll be surprised when they send you out everything you need at no charge.
ARP has been hands down the best company to work with when I've had minor issues like this. Seriously, make the list, email them, post back here in a week or so letting us know how cool it was that ARP took good care of you.
-dan
Make a list of what bolts and hardware the engine bolt kit didn't come with that you need. Make sure you know the lengths and sizes you are in need of. Email ARP with a breif explanation and provide the list. I think you'll be surprised when they send you out everything you need at no charge.
ARP has been hands down the best company to work with when I've had minor issues like this. Seriously, make the list, email them, post back here in a week or so letting us know how cool it was that ARP took good care of you.
-dan
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