PeterFeix

iTrader: (1)

thanks alot, this will help me i think

godreject

iTrader: (1)

just got my hsr in as well, got it painted and mocked up, im currently getting other things i need like fuel line are on order, now ? is i want to get 113 heads but am thinkign whehter i should or get soemhtign different, so much controversy over heads its hard to decide. i would like to install the hsr this weekend using my stock heads for now but would would rather install diff heads, should i wait for a good set of 113 heads, gett soemthign else, or just bolt on as im eager to see the results, also what heads can i use, i see others using non centerbolt style heads, will any early sbc head fit, would rather go on regular sbc heads for asthetic purposes since i want to get soem aftermarket valve covers, price wise id figure i spend maybe 400 to 550 on the 113's so anythign in that range, but i want to do things once and do it right so if more money must be spent then fine i can wait and save up just to do things right sorry 4 the long post, but any input

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

What are your goals with the car? what cam are you running? Is this going on the stock L98 shortblock or is it going on a built motor?

I think L98 113 castings are worth 10-15hp on stock motor over stock iron L98 castings based on the flow numbers and slightly higher compression even tho aluminum heads disipate heat more than iron. If you have a cam then the aluminum heads will compliment the cam better since they give abit more compression and have better exhaust flow. Vette guys get good numbers out of stock L98 113 heads and even better results ported

else get a set of aftermarket heads. Dont matter what kind as the HSR will fit both early and late model bolt patterns. Will not fit vortecs and it doesnt quite match 1206 port heads well either. newer HSR's can be ported out to about 1206 but older ones will need material welded to the manifold to seal the heads


Its alot easier to do the head swap now along with the HSR but the HSR comes apart pretty easy as well so it shouldnt take long to get at the heads.

If you get a good set of heads that are drilled for both perimeter and centerbolt valve covers, you have infinite choices of covers to run from stock to aftermarket centerbolt to perimeter. I went with tall style centerbolt covers on my AFR heads i have now.

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Do you have any et's or hp/tq results with the HSR combined with AFR's????

Thats also what i'm planning on doing!

Thanks,

Chris

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

no, the old L98 is over and done. I bought the AFR's for my 383 build and will be putting the HSR on top of that. It should be a monster

But any head flow improvements even with stock cam will show some power gains. stock cam is good to 5000 rpms peak power with the proper tune and intake/heads. with the HSR, the heads become the flow limiter. Add AFR's and now the cam is the limiter on the motor. I'd say you could see 20whp from a head swap.

godreject

iTrader: (1)

so 113's are good enough then. car isnt intended to be more then just a stret car, maybe looking to get 300 to the wheel then once i hit this number set up a nice working suspension. i have a mild built 350 and my tires would spin so much i got no traction, so i'd figure suspension upgrades are next. i have a guy selling me some 113 heads that are home ported, and supposed to be built, for 600 but im skeptical on home porting, maybe il post some pics and let people take a peak and give me some input as to the quality of work, besides the 113 heads what else canbe picked up that is as good or abit better for about the same cash, thanks 4 the info,

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

stock style vortec heads can be picked up for the same price. they are iron tho and heavier but flow alittle better and will make more power, just need a vortec HSR

But the L98 heads in stock form should have no problem getting close to 300whp with the right cam and that HSR intake.

PeterFeix

iTrader: (1)

woohoo, got my engine running again *g*
but i think my afpr isn't working properly...
fuel pressure cannot be adjusted , pressure is just 30-35psi when i turn the ignition on and it drops immediately to 0. furthermore it needs up to 10seconds to get the engine running.... and i notice a loud ticking noise coming from the regulator.... seems that the afpr is broken, right??

is there a possibility that i can mount my old stock-tpi regulator on the holley fuelrails?
when i send the broken part to summit, it needs ~2-3 weeks until i get a new one... :/ and i don't want to wait that long *g*

here's a pic of my swap:

as you can see, i used the fuel lines of a 2.8mpfi, not beautiful, but it works...

now a good thing i noticed: the braking performance improved
the hsr seems to produce more vacuum for the brake booster

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

Just save yourself the hassle of trying to rig it and buy the Kirban adj FPR for $105

PeterFeix

iTrader: (1)

hmm don't find anything in that price range...
the only thing i found was for LT1 rails for ~$170...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

kirban for adjustability..or else go find a grand national fuel regulator at a auto parts store. non adjustble and around 38-40psi.

The kirban is designed for grand nationals which happen to use the same rail type as the HSR

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

here's the link and it's still $105.Part #6547
https://secure.mysuperpageshosting.c...turboregal.htm

PeterFeix

iTrader: (1)

thanks alot!!!
hope that unit works
and i hope the shipping is fast

what do you think how much hp i loose at the moment? ( while running 15-20 psi less than i should have )

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

The kirban unit will work.Haven't heard of any complaints about it yet.Here's a pic of it installed on my HSR.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...?ID=1737510521

bgood71

I just my HSR last night.Can't wait to get it on, but I'm considering getting a cam now rather than putting on the intake then taking it off again for a cam later. Guess i'll need to see how payday is this week.

IROCThe5.7L

Did a little talking with Orr. If anyone wants to run the fuel lines like him, here's a good breakdown:

toxik IROC

iTrader: (12)

LOVE post that come back from the deadthat are usefull! thanks....after i spent hours finding all those part numbersaand what i needed

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Good deal, links dont work tho, but the part numbers are good stuff

IROCThe5.7L

That's weird. The links should have completely pasted. Fixed.

Mitchell383

I'm not gonna lie I'm doing a 383 stealth ram swap into my 86' iroc and all the info from you and other guys have totally got me in the right direction for getting it completed. the engine was dyno'd at 425hp and 445lb before the hsr so I cant wait to get it running and crush some cobra's.

Captainfernny

Old thread but what way would one connect the fuel rails using the link provided at the top of this page.