LT1 !! I am currently building a 383 LT1 for my 82 Camaro. 500 horse...Emissions legal !!!!!!

 

Nah, Ive been the lt1 route. I had trigger problems, even with the msd pro-billet dist.

 

383 LSx?

 

No, the lt1 that I had was a 350. I was happy to get rid of it after having water pump/distributor issues.

 

i mean, consider a 383 lsx build... that be the best platform for a bigger inch motor

 

Trigger problems ????
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Going with a Meziere electric water pump. Won't know about any distributor issues until I get it fired up.

 

The optispark on lt1's is not a fan of leaky water pumps! I already have a 427 lsx. I wouldnt go that route again. Too expensive. I have this sickness, see..... Enough, is never enough! I currently have 5 project cars and would like to build this one a little cheaper...

 

Ok, I have decided to turbocharge this car after all. It will be a rear mount turbo, somewhere in the 70 mm range. Anyone have any suggestions? Cam? Heads? Injectors? I have decided to bite the bullet and use a FAST xfi....

 

I am running a normal mounted set up with a t-76 but here is my combo and the car runs over 125 mph in the quarter on 5 lbs of boost. 383, hsr intake, 58mm tb, afr 195 eliminator heads newest castings, comp boat cam 224 230 @.050 535 550 llift with 1.6 rockers 112 lobe sep. 9.5 comp. 42 lbs lucas injectors with 255 intake pump and msd inline booster pump. I use my factory computer a 730 with code $59 which tunes up to 30lbs of boost and so far is great. no numbers yet on the car but can out run any 600cc bike on 5 lbs and on 10 hung dead even with a kawaski zx10 that ran 135 in the quarter. was going to turn it to 12lbs to beat him but blew out my header gaskets on the 10 lbs race. I also run a larger ceramic bb turbo and my car makes 5 lbs if you look at the gas pedal. comes on super fast and hard just how boost should be. 0 lag with my set up and converter which is a 3200 presision vig.

 

ok didnt see the emisions thing so hsr is out. i will share this with you . prior to my turbo my car n/a ran high 11s @116 to 118. I ran the hsr but prior to that I had a stock ported upper and lower with slp runners. I also took my lower and siameesed it in about 6 inches. the car pulled to 6000 with that setup and same cam and when i went to the hsr intake only picked up 1 mph in the quarter. car made 380rwhp with that factory siameesed stuff. so you can make it work if you know how. I did all my work myself and had close to 40 hrs in that lower intake but was worth it. would have never took it off if i had known it was working so well for me but saw so many people get huge gains with the hsr. guess my setup was perfect for that intake though.

 

In reference to Jason (drknown90rs_ss@y), we came up with a way to make a non-emission legal intake to a legal one. We are going to fab up a remote egr and link it with the flex metal pipes from the 2.8 V6 engines. So, that intake system might still be in play.

 

way to use the ole noggin. good idea. def the best way to go. cheap and easy to work on. well cheap compared to say a miniram.

 

I'm looking to make somewhere in the 700 to 800 hp range. This will never be a daily driver and if it gets 4 mpg thats ok with me. It will be driven to and from the car show 2 times a month and maybe the track once every 3 months or so (I live 1 mile from speedworld). I discovered a loophole recently, in the emissions laws so that might not be an issue anymore. Anyone know if 800hp is possible with a single rear-mount turbo using this setup? I really need to get moving on this...

 

mine actually gets close to 18mph if i stay out of boost then it goes nuts lol.I have seen ls1 vettes make 1000 rwhp on rear twins. So cant see why not. Kind wish i had done a rear with all the heat problems I have now but know a front mount will always out preform a rear mount setup.

 

The front mount is better horsepower wise, but in az my cars have cooling problems already without having another source of heat under the hood! I am going to mini-tub the rear so I can make better use of all that power.

 

This may give you an idea on the intake. Pretty much any SP intake can be made to work in the space available under a Camaro/FB hood.


On a 383, I would definitely be looking seriously at the AFR195CP Eliminators. If you get serious about the 800HP goal, then you will want to pursue the AFR215CP Eliminators with a nice SR cam. Mine is quite streetable and well beyond this HP level due to the healthy boost. I run the AFR215s and FAST programming.
Aaron

 

I like that intake, AKS_ racing. I have seen pics of your setup somewhere else in here... I want to use an old FAST LS-1 90mm monoblade I have lying around. I think I am going to use ACCEL DFI for this setup with a dual sync dist. running sequential injection and a 3 bar map sensor...
I was looking at those AFR 215's. I may end up using them.
How much boost are you running?
Thanks!

 

According to their website TPIS has released an EGR kit for the Mini-Ram, this looks like it might be a solution for your set-up.

http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...ake+Components

 

Thats a nice deal! I may use that... i may have found a way around emissions testing. Classic car insurance. (No emissions test required) I am still going to install dual cats in case I ever have to meet emissions requirements. I am looking at using ACCEL's "Thruster" system so no egr controls or A.I.R. diverter valve controls. Hmmm..

 

Nickname is "Miss Nasty" and for good reason. I am running 28+ psi regularly with the occasional dip off the end of the 3-BAR. This is on an owner built fully forged (Crower Superlite, Oliver Billet, JE custom, 248/254 @ 0.050 0.670"+ SR) 4" stroke in a 350 L-98 block with AFR215CPs (with a bit of extra work), JE shafts, C4SP, Monoblade, 84 lb/hr injectors, FAST tuned and the infamous D1R with reworked impellor (2300CFM) and no IC. The engine is pretty much built to take what I can throw at it. Car runs deep into the 9s at 151-154MPH (crappy 60' times of high 1.7s) on slicks. Street car with full interior, licensed, inspected, and insured.
Aaron

 

Yikes, AKS_Racing! What kind of horsepower are you putting to the ground? Ever been on a dyno?

 

I don't want to pull this thread too far off-course, but here goes. The car made just over 480WHP normally aspirated (blower disconected and filter over the MB). It delivered 824WHP on 10.8 psi boost (occasionally on cold winter nights would see almost 14 psi) with the 4" Spearco custom IC, no xxOH.

I have since ditched the IC and run xxOH and the boost now peaks at 27-28 psi. It has not been back to the dyno, but it has picked up a substantial amount of power with the added boost (also had to change ignition and to a much larger coil, and change the plug gap to 0.023" to avoid "spark snuf").

If the car were not running, it looks really mild, unless you look under the rear and see the sump, Weldon pump, and full rod-end, cradled rear. With it running / driving, one quickly learns that there is a reason it has earned the name
"Miss Nasty".

Aaron

 

Very nice! It is a perfect sleeper! I love it! I'm not too sure how much of a sleeper mine will be with 335/30/19's in the rear, but I'm hoping...
By xxOH you mean water/methanol?
Those are some really awesome #'s!
I might have a line on some AFR215's. Still working on that...
It's definately not thread-jacking as it pretains to my question; I want to know what the best setup is, for me.

 

are you not worried about block strength with that 4" stroke clearancing??

For that power man i'd get a Dart SHP block or similar but the car looks amazing... definately didnt expect it to be a street car like that

 

Orr,
The block has a lot of time (and money) in it. One thing that people don't often understand is that if you use high-quality components you tend to not have near as much clearancing as the lower quality components.

I run a Superlite crank and Oliver billet rods and JE customs, which allow me to clearance the same (or ever so slightly more) than a 3.75" crank. I run a non-custom oil pan (Canton) and have no leak issues. I do run a low fill (some call it "half fill") on the waterjacket and the block is splayed with billet main caps. It has the oil towers in the galley that allow no lifter valley oil to return over the reciprocating assy. I feel pretty good about the strength of the short block.

Thanks for the compliments on the car.
Aaron

drknow,
xxOH is referencing alcohol injection.

 

I bet you have some money in that bottom end, i was just concerned as I've been told the stock 4 bolt/1 pc roller blocks are only good to 600hp with splayed caps. These are some respectable sources over at speedtalk. Then again i go on turbo forums, and they say 800 is doable. Some say 1000 with splayed caps and solid rotating assembly

And i've seen MANY setups over 700whp on these blocks so whats the deal? how can you say the caps will walk around with 600hp when many ppl are over that?

I'm planning 600-650whp i hope and was concerned. I'm 4 bolt main, not splayed but with ARP bolts everywhere. Rotating assembly is built for it but the block is where i was scared.

Thanks for your input on this

 

I have a block girdle and billet splayed caps as well. If you are well balanced, a 4 bolt main block with the proper prep will be just fine. (I know a guy with a 2 bolt main that is pushing 900 hp with a supercharger and transbrake. 2 years and no problems yet.) It's all in the prep.

 

I agree with the comments on the blocks being much more durable than what people think. With that being said, I steer clear of the 4-bolt (factory) blocks becacause they tend to be thinner in the main web area. I would rather use a 2-bolt (non-splayed) block than a 4-bolt (factory) block in a high HP application. Durability and longevity in the high HP arena is all in the block prep.

Orr,
I would start a search for a 2-bolt HR 1-piece RMS block for your build. These blocks are cheap enough, and it sounds like you haven't started the prep of the 4-bolt main block.
Aaron

 

I have my old L98 block sitting in my garage 2 bolt main, i just hope it checks out ok if i ever decide to use it.

My 383 is in the car right now and what i'm gonna do is swap heads/piston rings and boost that. I'll have a slightly high 9.8 to 1 compression but with mild boost i'll be fine. Like i said i only want 600whp give or take some, give would be awesome.

Motor is all forged, and built well, its been holding my 150 shot just fine and that puts me somewhere between 500-550 whp judging by my 127 mph traps

 

If your block is handling the 500+ hp already, then it sounds like you will probably be just fine.
I have heard that about the two bolt main blocks. Hmmmm...

 

Sure... 600WHP is all you want. Show me anyone who will be OK with moving from 550WHP to 600WHP (netting 50WHP additional) from adding boost.

Trust me, you will want more!

If I could count the number of times that i have heard "I don't want to run ___ (you fill in the blank: 11s, 10s, 9s). I would just be happy with running a ___ (again, you fill in the blank: 12, 11, 10) sec time." They always say this untill they run a string of 11s, then run an 11.08, then they want a 10. I doubt you would ever meet someone that is running close to 10.0s that wouldn't like the feel of a 9.9x.

I ran my old combo D1 on a 355 (~580WHP) for the longest time at 10.08, 10.12, 10.07, etc, just could never get below 10.0. It delivered from 139-141 trap speed, so I knew it had a 9 in there. It turned out the c-beam was causing the D44 to load and unload, causing really crappy 60 times (ever wonder what 2.77 and 3.32 60' times at low 10s looks like?). I only found the problem when I was replacing the engine and then I was already committed to the change. I added the c-beam plates and the cradle with integration to the ladder, and have no further issues. I still only run high 1.7 60' times, but definitely making a lot more power and very easy to overpower the slicks. It has run very low 9.3s, and I have yet to want to get much quicker, I just want better 60' times. I am starting to have lots of issues with traction on the big-end where I will let 3rd and 4th have the full 28+ psi boost (1st and 2nd will be limited to ~20 psi).

Moral of the story: You will always want more, it is human nature. Overbuild now for the future! This doesn't just apply to cars...
Aaron

 

Aaron, that car is amazing. To the original poster AKS's comments ring SO TRUE. Overbuild it now. Think of it as a foundation. You want that to be as strong as possible, thus letting you put any size blower, cam, intake on it later knowing things will hold up.
The power and speed bug. Don't worry. No matter how much you deny it or say "I'll be fine with X numbers" that bug will take such a big bite outta your **** and you'll be hooked. That happened to me when I brought my car to the track after the rebuild. While my numbers were disappointing to me I discovered small issues in my build (intake gasket leak) that reassured the hidden power that would have been.

 

Oh i know, and i've been there. I was 11.4's and wanted more so i got nitrous to mid 10's. Now i was gonna spray more and shoot for high 9's but the turbo will get me there. Main reason for boost for now is to get my nitrous power all the time. No more 4 passes for one bottle and drive 40min to refill.

i went 10.6 with probly 520whp but i never dyno'd it so i have no idea. 400 on motor with a 150 shot is 550 but i dont think i was getting it all. 600 will push me over 130mph or sure, probly closer to 135 and get me a shot at high 9's. Car is only legal to 10.0's and under 135 mph. No intention yet to make it legal for 9's

Oh and for my first build, first time with boost, i dont wanna get to crazy. I am learning alot about turbo setups and a week ago i couldnt tell you much I've been a n/a guy forever

 

I agree. I'm still learning (And do I ever have a lot to learn!)
I would never be happy with any hp, I always want MORE!!!
800 or so, should keep me happy for a little while....

 

What intake elbow and accessories is in the picture. I want to buy a single plane and have been looking for an intake elbow that will fit under the hood of my 91 Firebird.
Thanks

 

Huh, I'd love to see that from a few other angles... If nothing else, what was done for a thermostat/return hose to the radiator? What size are those fuel rails?

 

to refresh: about the super ram
yes you can get them to pull hard to 6400rpm
in a 383

my old 383 is a lingenfelter stage5 383 11.1 mech roller eng