I'll be plumbing my HSR with these lines http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230606/ and I just want to be sure I have a nice tight clamp to hold it in under the car. Which clamp size would fit best around the O.D. of the tubing?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1882/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1883/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1881/

Thanks

Have you considered push-fit summit lines with fittings? EFI rated.

I did take the time to look at all of the types of tubing I could locate. I was not aware that these braded lines were not EFI rated. Also the variety of fittings was larger with AN fittings. Honestly I wish I could get away with hose clamping rubber lines underneath to the original hard lines and fitting them over the 3/8 barbed fittings that came on my fuel lines setup. That would be the quickest and easiest way and would still look fairly stock ( meaning the stainless lines would be more eye catching ).

I have only been to the track twice and both times it was bone stock so there was no need to worry about not passing inspection. Would not having a rated line cause me to fail a visual? What might be some of the regulations to look out for?

Aeroquip and maybe Summit offers a compression fitting on one end and a AN female on the other. Safer than hose clamps.

If you have the stealth ram, do it the easy way that no one seems to want to do. Buy 10 feet of -6 an, a 6 an tube nut and 6 an hose ends and a 5/16 to 3/8 adapter. Cut the hard lines between the transmission mount and engine, install an fittings and route the new lines along the top of the trans tunnel to where the new fuel rails hook up. That looks way better then a hard line running to the front of the engine and a braided line then doubling back to the rear of the engine.

That is kind of how I'm doing mine. I went -6 out of the sender to a -6 high pressure filter, then I go into the factory hard line where the stock filter was. Leave it hard until by the power steering box, I become -6 braided.

You have no concerns running that much length of braided?

-- Joe

That's exactly what I did and it looks very clean being hidden.

I'm not quite sure how you are describing your line route. But, at any rate, I am using the same length of -6 an braided stainless that any other person would to go from the stock fittings to the new fuel rails. Possible I am using less. I know that over time the braided line can swell, however I'm not worried about that since it takes a very long time and last year I put less then 3,000 miles on it. Next time I have the engine out I am going to run entirely new aluminum lines from the tank up and route the aluminum hard lines to come out at the top/side of the transmission tunnel.

So my sending unit the fitting/end was broken. So I cut it and spliced in a tube to -6 fitting. So I go braided like right out of the sending unit. Then I go into a fuel filter, near where the stock filter in front of the rear LCA. I use the factory hard like up until where the rubber TPI fuel hose would be, then I go -6 braided into the fuel rails.

I could technically go -6 braided from the fuel pump/sender all the way to the rail, but I'm concerned that such a long run of braided might lead to problems. ?

-- Joe

So i'm definatly going to cut the lines from under the car and adapt to -6an lines and run into the back of the fuel rails. I'm still wondering though what O.D. -6an is? I only want to buy the clips once. It's just a PITA if I order the wrong size and have to ship them back. Gonna fill my SUMMIT basket and buy everything at once.

Also someone mentioned that braided was not "rated" for EFI. Is this true. I don't want any problems with track inspection.

You answered your own question with the first link you posted. The first link lists the ID, OD and all other specs for the hose you bought. If you can't figure that out, take a piece of your hose to Home Depot or Lowes and match it up there. The sell those same clamps in the electrical section.

Well title says it all "Stupid question". Thanks for suggesting I take a closer look at the description of the -6AN hose. I spend so much time surfing parts I glaze over some things.

I also agree that taking the hose to Home Depot would solve my fitment issues. I was trying to purchase both hose and clips at the same time in order to avoid 2 seperate handling fees by the distributor. Why spend another $5 on an $8 order? Since I'm already reading this site every night it seemed a lot easier to post and wait than to drive 22 miles (I live in the boones) round trip to the hardware store and burn another $6 in gas and chew up 1.5 hrs outta my life.

Potential cost if I screw up:

original clip order incl. $5 handling = $13.95
trip to store to discover
not right correct size = $6.00
ship back to summit for credit
go to post office =not worth it
order new clips w/ handling = $13.95

Final cost =$33.90 (what a rip off)

The stock feed line is a 3/8 and the stock return line is a 5/16. I believe that Earl's sells a 5/16 to -6an adapter 165056ERL and its a compression fitting. Then just buy a -6an tube sleeve and tube nut (for the 3/8 line) along with the -6 an hose ends to connect to the rails. It really is easy and looks and functions much better.

Push fit is EFI rated and a lot easier to work with.

I've used the blue push fit hose and fittings before with no problems at 4-bar.
On my next project I've been considering the newer teflon lined stuff, since I have had some issues (long term) with braided rubber hose becoming hard and/or disintegrating internally.