When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Planning a dyno tune this Friday and I an speculating about what it'll make. You can check my sig but it's here's a quick run down.
Dart 414 CI motor
10.4:1 compression
AFR 210 heads.
Comp 236/242 -600 lift cam on 112
Holley stealth ram 58mm TB 36# injectors
EBL ECM with my tune
Hooker short tube 1 5/8" headers Custom Y and 3 1/2 exhaust
Full accessories, water pump AC power steering ALT etc
TKO 600 trans
9 bolt rear 3.70 gear
25" tall street radial tires
Let's see did I forget anything? I built this motor with the goal to make an honest 360+ to the rear tires with full exhaust and accessories. The engine should be capable of more but the cam, intake and headers aren't max effort. What do you think? Put up your predictions and I will let you know what it makes after Friday.
Lol yeah that's right. I am using Bob's EBL flash and have been working with it for about a year. Currently running an open loop tune that drives very well and seems consistent. One big issue so far is that it pulls timing. Especially when it has been running for 20+ minutes and at around 200'F. I have it at 27' total right now. One of the tests I am going to perform is adding timing in steps to find out what it really likes. I think it should need more total SA. My suspicion is the plugs I have been running are too hot and may be contributing to the KR. (The piston have ~.035 quench clearance.) I installed a colder set of plugs and am going to add some 100 octane fuel to help eliminate true knock. If I still have it pulling timing I may dummy up the KR settings.
Yes, my estimates are conservative. Jeremy may remember when I built this motor I wasn't going for max effort and built a large CI motor to make power with a less radical combination. We'll see. The Dart block and stout bottom end are for reliability. Not to mention the N2O kit goes up to 200WHP shot. I have the 125 jets in it for the tuning session. I want to test a nitrous pull if everything else goes well.
The short tube headers and especially the small primary diameter are a known issue and I have seriously considered changing them out. It'll depend on the results really. If I make decent power I may keep them since they have good ground clearance and have zero problems.
A goal of the dyno session is to see where the motor peaks and what the curve looks like. To me it seems a little flat on top but that may just be that I got used to the larger motor's power. Who knows what I may do in the future but at least this is the starting point.
Oh and the shop has a Dynojet 224X. I believe this is an inertia only setup and don't believe he has the eddy current/constant load option. So it's basically a RPM blast and not a controlled, loaded measurement. That is one area my tune may be at issue if my AE isn't dialed in close enough. I would prefer a loaded dyno where it could be a WOT in the lower rpm ranges and had enough time to stabilize. I hope to get good measurements from around 2000rpm and up to see the whole curve.
One big issue so far is that it pulls timing. Especially when it has been running for 20+ minutes and at around 200'F. I have it at 27' total right now.
Yes, I normally run 93 unleaded. I tested some 89 a while back and it ran good but would pull timing more quickly than with the 93. I'm going to add about 5 gal of 100 leaded before the dyno run just to make sure. I don't mind "de-tuning" for everyday use but want to know what makes the most power for the baseline.
Yes, I normally run 93 unleaded. I tested some 89 a while back and it ran good but would pull timing more quickly than with the 93. I'm going to add about 5 gal of 100 leaded before the dyno run just to make sure. I don't mind "de-tuning" for everyday use but want to know what makes the most power for the baseline...
What are your IAT's when you see timing being pulled?
What are your IAT's when you see timing being pulled?
I will have to check into that but generally they are around 20-30C since the sensor is in front of the radiator.
Just returned from the dyno run. Made over 400WHP right out and with a little tuning it made 419@ 5800 na and 506WHP with nitrous.
The nitrous run was very rich at around 11AFR but I left it there for safety sake.
I am trying to get the software loaded so I can show the graphs but the torque was over 400 from 3500-5500 and power was still climbing or at least very flat when I let off at 5800. I am extremely pleased. I'll try to get the graphs up later today or tomorrow. Gotta get back to work.
Thanks, I am pleased with the power levels and the torque and power peaks. Here's a graph of the best runs. NA is the middle graph with N2O at the top. Also, at the bottom is my previous run with the original 350 TPI motor; flat top, cam, headers and the basic bolt on parts. Notice the peak moved up in rpm range. I appears the new motor hadn't quite peaked yet.
Last edited by antman89iroc; Apr 2, 2016 at 10:31 AM.
Which Part# Hooker Headers did you use? I ask because AFR heads have raised exhaust ports and so I'm just wondering about header compatibility issues for my own engine build which also uses AFR210's.
Which Part# Hooker Headers did you use? I ask because AFR heads have raised exhaust ports and so I'm just wondering about header compatibility issues for my own engine build which also uses AFR210's.
I used 2460 shorty headers. They are 1 5/8" OD primary tubes with oval ports. They do not align properly with AFR 210's as shipped. I sandblasted them and welded the outside of the tubes to the flanges and then ported them to match the heads. It's labor intensive but required if you don't want a step at the port. Now I believe the 2210 long tubes would be better since they are 1 3/4" primary tubes but would probably give them the same treatment. There are some headers made by Dyno don that are short tube with 1 3/4" tubes which may work without modification.
Last edited by antman89iroc; Apr 4, 2016 at 11:17 AM.
Yeah she went 7.98 @ 90 on the motor and 7.88 @ 92 with nitrous. I leave very easy due to not wanting to break parts (mainly the rear end) or burn the clutch up. The first run I slipped the clutch a lot and was worried I smoked it but it seemed to be ok. When I mean easy launch I mean 1.9 60' times so there is a lot to be gained right there. I'm mostly at the track for tuning purposes.
I only made one nitrous pass and it was verrry rich and this is with a "125HP" nitrous nozzle so there is a bit to be gained on the juice with some tuning at the track. Maybe next session.
Good numbers, should run low 11's with a good 60ft on motor and be a fun street car
It is slow out of the gate but it's a blast to drive everyday!
Originally Posted by bdiroc
Get better exhaust ,cam and port the intake and shift in upper 6's and run mid 10's on motor and 9's on juice
Lol yeah and a better clutch and 9" rear end.
The rear end is my biggest concern and one of the reasons I baby it out of the hole. I bring it up to 2-2500 and release the clutch while easing down on the throttle. I mean it's a quick take off but not your typical drag strip driveline shock.
