$9 harbor freight buffing kit-going buff with my TPI
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.1L Gen III
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
$9 harbor freight buffing kit-going buff with my TPI
my hands hurt too much...
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pag...d=372439&page=2
I’m using a very similar method to http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox.../info/info.htm
For my best results I did the following:
I sanded up to 600 dry and then began buffing with a $10 harbor freight buffing kit. The kit included 4 cotton buffing pads, a single spindle drill mount, and 2 compound sticks. I started with the red and finished with the white changing pads with the compound. After nearly burning myself with some AC drills, (I think there just getting too old and were creating a LOT of heat) I gave up and gathered 4 cordless drills and started changing lots of battery packs. After some thorough buffing, I used blue magic chrome/aluminum polish to put the finishing shine on. According to the linked article I need to use a more aggressive first stage and finer finish compound.
The grill is painted with stop light red metallic model paint. It seems to stick well, but absolutely hates brake cleaner, which turned out to be a good thing for my many slip-ups. It better like the under-temps because it took over 3 hours to put on two coats plus some touch ups. I ended up using only one bottle and would have enough left for touch ups if not for painting a good portion of a towel with a third of the bottle.
Comparing to the wet-sanding/polishing I was doing the finish was much better, not so much shiner as more reflective and more clear. With WS/P method you could only see maybe 3-4’ on the parts. After buffing the finish is almost like a mirror. I’m still not quite satisfied with the plenum, but the runners came out much better especially compared to the WS/P method. I also tapped out any small dents in the runners with a 3/8s socket extension and the round end of few wrenches.
A few tips, wrap some masking tape around the chuck on your drill. Once the pad slips off once you’ll thank me.
Also put your runners in a very safe place, one 3” drop did more damage than 15 years under the hood and 3 tear downs and 2 (so far) rebuilds. This one fall completely ruined my day because it was so preventable.
Now, Does anyone know of some good polished aluminum valve covers?(centerbolt)
I kinda like the wysco ones, in jegs.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pag...d=372439&page=2
I’m using a very similar method to http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox.../info/info.htm
For my best results I did the following:
I sanded up to 600 dry and then began buffing with a $10 harbor freight buffing kit. The kit included 4 cotton buffing pads, a single spindle drill mount, and 2 compound sticks. I started with the red and finished with the white changing pads with the compound. After nearly burning myself with some AC drills, (I think there just getting too old and were creating a LOT of heat) I gave up and gathered 4 cordless drills and started changing lots of battery packs. After some thorough buffing, I used blue magic chrome/aluminum polish to put the finishing shine on. According to the linked article I need to use a more aggressive first stage and finer finish compound.
The grill is painted with stop light red metallic model paint. It seems to stick well, but absolutely hates brake cleaner, which turned out to be a good thing for my many slip-ups. It better like the under-temps because it took over 3 hours to put on two coats plus some touch ups. I ended up using only one bottle and would have enough left for touch ups if not for painting a good portion of a towel with a third of the bottle.
Comparing to the wet-sanding/polishing I was doing the finish was much better, not so much shiner as more reflective and more clear. With WS/P method you could only see maybe 3-4’ on the parts. After buffing the finish is almost like a mirror. I’m still not quite satisfied with the plenum, but the runners came out much better especially compared to the WS/P method. I also tapped out any small dents in the runners with a 3/8s socket extension and the round end of few wrenches.
A few tips, wrap some masking tape around the chuck on your drill. Once the pad slips off once you’ll thank me.
Also put your runners in a very safe place, one 3” drop did more damage than 15 years under the hood and 3 tear downs and 2 (so far) rebuilds. This one fall completely ruined my day because it was so preventable.Now, Does anyone know of some good polished aluminum valve covers?(centerbolt)
I kinda like the wysco ones, in jegs.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,937
Likes: 636
From: Chicagoland
Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
Engine: LB9. Dual Cats. Big Cam
Transmission: World Class T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45
Re: $9 harbor freight buffing kit-going buff with my TPI
Originally posted by Roostmeyer
. I also tapped out any small dents in the runners with a 3/8s socket extension and the round end of few wrenches.
.
. I also tapped out any small dents in the runners with a 3/8s socket extension and the round end of few wrenches.
.
Also, anyone know if there is a way to regain the factory look to runners?
Looks awesome BTW.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.1L Gen III
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
When i tapped them out, i moved very slowly and just tapped, never really hitting. You've got to kinda restrain yourself because the difference between not even moving the dent out, and making a full fledged hole is pretty small. The idea is not to completly fix the dents with the extension, the idea is to get them close and maybe just a touch too pushed out. Then I sanded them with a D/A sander with 400 until they were ground down smooth. It doesn't completly get rid of the dents, but as you can see its pretty hard to see where the dents were now.
Last edited by Roostmeyer; Jun 21, 2003 at 08:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.1L Gen III
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
I think i know what your talking about, I'm looking at the cover of the TPIS catalog. So those are cast aluminum? Can you buy them new anywhere or is ebay my only option? I kinda like these http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...d=999&pid=1122 I've seen them with flames before at a swap meet and would have bought a set for $80 if i could've found the place again after doing all my browsing. $120 is more than i want to spend but if its what i want i'll go for it. For a little bit more i can get these http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...73&prmenbr=361
Both look good, but I think i'd rather have the milled w/ flames. Does anyone know anyplace that carries them(with a good price) for centerbolt heads?
Both look good, but I think i'd rather have the milled w/ flames. Does anyone know anyplace that carries them(with a good price) for centerbolt heads?
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,937
Likes: 636
From: Chicagoland
Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
Engine: LB9. Dual Cats. Big Cam
Transmission: World Class T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45
Anyone have any ideas on restoring the factory finish to TPI runners.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 0
From: Cove, Arkansas
Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by chazman
Anyone have any ideas on restoring the factory finish to TPI runners.
Anyone have any ideas on restoring the factory finish to TPI runners.
Last edited by 85SportCoupeto89RS; Jun 22, 2003 at 12:29 AM.
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