After rainy days, I get a lot of water in the trunk. My weatherstrips are fine. A couple of times, when it rained I tried to see where where the water goes in but could't find out.
Any ideas ????
Any ideas ????
Junior Member
If you're SURE the weatherstripping is fine, and the rear windshield isnt round the edges, Take off you're int. trim panels, locking storage space thingy, and the area where the spair tire is stored, I dont know about you're car, but on mine it's wide open, Use to store ice in there on long trips,....Well nuff of that..Anyway, If you're getting water in through the read quarterpanel area it may be coming in on the inside of the body and leaking underneath your trim plates. An idea, to say the least.
Senior Member
This sounds sorta bootlegged, but I had the same problem with an olds cutlas and i couldn't find the problem so I just pulled up the carpet and drilled a hole right through the floor. It never held water again and my carpet stayed almost completely dry. It is a last resort, but it does keep your car from getting moldy and filling up with water. No one will ever know about the holes in the floor and you won't remember they are there. Just an idea to consider if worse comes to worse.
Member
I too had a problem with water accumulating in the rear center well. I had a couple inches of water there after the car was parked for three months. There were a couple rain storms that had occured during that time. Also, I noticed that this area would become saturated (1/4" - 1") with water, especially after driving in the rain.
The weatherstripping appeared to be in good condition. I sprayed water in this area with a garden hose to see where it was leaking. There was a small trail of water from the seam where the two ends of the weatherstripping meet, behind the latch. The two ends had a 1/8" gap, which I closed.
Since then, I have never had a lot of water in this well area, however, I notice that the carpet sometimes still gets wet. Pulling up the carpet will show a good amount of condensation on the metal, which will lead to rust if not corrected.
I suspect that there is still a small leak coming from the weatherstripping area during rain, although it's been dry for the past couple months.
I thought about drilling a hole(s) in the bottom to allow water to escape, but any leak will be enough to make the carpet/insulation wet, and you'll still have the moisture to contend with that will eventually lead to rust.
The carpet and insulation will retain water for a long time (and thus promote rust), so using a hole(s) to drain the water would only reduce the problem, not eliminate it.
If anyone has had this problem and knows the cure, please advise.
The weatherstripping appeared to be in good condition. I sprayed water in this area with a garden hose to see where it was leaking. There was a small trail of water from the seam where the two ends of the weatherstripping meet, behind the latch. The two ends had a 1/8" gap, which I closed.
Since then, I have never had a lot of water in this well area, however, I notice that the carpet sometimes still gets wet. Pulling up the carpet will show a good amount of condensation on the metal, which will lead to rust if not corrected.
I suspect that there is still a small leak coming from the weatherstripping area during rain, although it's been dry for the past couple months.
I thought about drilling a hole(s) in the bottom to allow water to escape, but any leak will be enough to make the carpet/insulation wet, and you'll still have the moisture to contend with that will eventually lead to rust.
The carpet and insulation will retain water for a long time (and thus promote rust), so using a hole(s) to drain the water would only reduce the problem, not eliminate it.
If anyone has had this problem and knows the cure, please advise.
Senior Member
GM put out a TSB on this, and even though your weatherstripping may look fine it needs to be replaced with a revised part no. to stop the leaks. Mine leaks too, but I just haven't gotten around to fixing it yet.
Member
I had the same problem with my car and I found out it was leaking from the bottom edge of the rear winshield seal.You see the seal by looking at the exterior bottom edge of your winshield ,I put black RTV where the winshild and the (rear wing) meet and it solved my problem.
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Duffster
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Same as IRACE!!!!
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Duffster (age 31)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),84' 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
Duffster_Camaro@HOTMAIL.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.
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Duffster (age 31)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),84' 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
Duffster_Camaro@HOTMAIL.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.
Member
In my case, it was the seal between the rear hatch panel and the hatch glass itself. Looking at the underside of the hatch, you will see a black transition piece from the glass to the painted metal portion. This is basically glued in and that seal breaks over time due to the flexing of that joint. The weatherstripping can be perfectly fine, and water will come in through this joint.
The only real fix I know is to completely disassemble the rear hatch area (remove the metal panel from the glass), clean all surfaces, and reseal everything when putting it back together. It's a big job, but it worked for me.
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'87 IROC 5.7l TPI - original owner!
The only real fix I know is to completely disassemble the rear hatch area (remove the metal panel from the glass), clean all surfaces, and reseal everything when putting it back together. It's a big job, but it worked for me.
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'87 IROC 5.7l TPI - original owner!
Member
PJ,
What you posted sounds correct.
You stated the metal plate is glued to the windshield. I am curious to know if you had any trouble removing it, and if so, how did you do it? I'd be a little worried that I may break the glass if too much stress is placed on it, or that I would not be able to break the seal.
Also, is there any special sealer (glue/ahesive?) that must be used, or can any silicone sealent be used?
Comments welcomed.
What you posted sounds correct.
You stated the metal plate is glued to the windshield. I am curious to know if you had any trouble removing it, and if so, how did you do it? I'd be a little worried that I may break the glass if too much stress is placed on it, or that I would not be able to break the seal.
Also, is there any special sealer (glue/ahesive?) that must be used, or can any silicone sealent be used?
Comments welcomed.
Member
Duffster
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Amazingly enough...check out my technical article on this @ https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...tchalign.shtml 
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TGO Supporter
I had a similar problem, and I had to solve it three ways. I did the same as IRACE87, replaced the weatherstripping with new GM rubber, and also in the spare tire area the seam sealer on the rear of the area was not done properly by the factory and water just streamed down it into the tire area causing massive rust problems
which I also took care of. I bought seam sealer from eastwood http://www.eastwoodcompany.com and re-sealed it. Now it is dry as a bone, and no more rust. (although the rest of my car is still apart) Hope this helps.
John
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84 Firebird with Trans am ground effects- 350 4bbl GM crate motor (LM1), T-Tops, automatic, K&N filter, 180* thermostat, ram-air hood scoop, flowmaster muffler, Accel cap & rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires. Coming soon: new interior (grey), rear end work, subframe connectors, polyurethane bushings
which I also took care of. I bought seam sealer from eastwood http://www.eastwoodcompany.com and re-sealed it. Now it is dry as a bone, and no more rust. (although the rest of my car is still apart) Hope this helps.John
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84 Firebird with Trans am ground effects- 350 4bbl GM crate motor (LM1), T-Tops, automatic, K&N filter, 180* thermostat, ram-air hood scoop, flowmaster muffler, Accel cap & rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires. Coming soon: new interior (grey), rear end work, subframe connectors, polyurethane bushings