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Runs in paint

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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 12:43 AM
  #1  
LD1985's Avatar
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From: Urbana, Illinois
Car: '91 RS, 1994 Honda Accord LX
Engine: 3.1
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Runs in paint

My gf's car has runs in the paint from her Maaco paint job...She won't let me take it back to maaco (2 hrs away) Is there a way i can get them out myself and make it look good? regardless of price how could i get this done at home? My dad has a buffer...
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 07:02 AM
  #2  
KEVIN G.'s Avatar
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From: North Carolina
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
How bad are we talking?
Did they use basecoat/clearcoat? If not, you're FUBAR'ed
If so, use a razor blade first, do not make the mistake to try to "cut " them off, you want to hold the blade perpendicular to the panel, and scrape lightly along the length of the run. Removing thin layers off at a time, USE A BRAND NEW BLADE!!!
The idea is to get down to the painted surface, You will see the edge disappear, then you got it!!!
Wetsand the area with 1200 to 1500, buff, and polish.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 07:19 AM
  #3  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
A razorblade for removing runs? That's definately a first for me.

When I get runs, I block sand them out with 1000 grit, then once they're smooth, go over them with 1500, then buff.

If it's a single-stage paint job (most likely if it's maaco), you should be fine. If it's a 2-stage (basecoat & clearcoat), as long as the run was in the clear you'll be fine. If it's a 2 stage and the color coat ran, you're screwed.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 08:24 AM
  #4  
KEVIN G.'s Avatar
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From: North Carolina
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
When I get runs, I block sand them out with 1000 grit, then once they're smooth, go over them with 1500, then buff.
I always did too, but did you ever notice those slight ripples left behind? Then an old paint rep of mine showed me this trick, I've never done it my old way again...
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 11:52 AM
  #5  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I've never had the ripples, but if your method works, it would still save time. I may need to shoot a junk hood or fender to try this out.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 01:52 PM
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Kandied91z's Avatar
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that thought just scares me....just paint better.

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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 03:29 PM
  #7  
JeffW's Avatar
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From: Massachusetts
Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
the make a block you can purchase for the razor blade. its called a " run blocker" i think i got mine from eastwood. it hold the blade and has a little nylon screw to set blade depth.it has things on the side of it that helps you follow the surface of the car. this way you can dial in the cut and take off little slices. the run blocker is only a couple bucks. i did use it on one little run on my gfx and it works sweet. great little tool for the novice.

Jeff
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 03:41 PM
  #8  
Jim85IROC's Avatar
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by Kandied91z
that thought just scares me....just paint better.

Getting that great glossy finish requires lots of wet clear coat. The best paint jobs I've ever seen all had a million runs out of the spray booth.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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gilley's86's Avatar
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From: Nebraska
Car: 1986 Camaro SC
Engine: 305, AKA 30WHY
Transmission: 700R4
Sorry to hear about the runs. Well when my dad and I painted my car, we had some runs cause his gun needs to have a little work, and with the paint being black, they made themselves easily known. We wet sanded, but I can't remember with which grit paper. Time consuming, yes, but looked a lot better when we were done.

Gilley
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 07:11 PM
  #10  
heavy_chevy29's Avatar
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From: boonton, NJ
Car: 84 camaro Z28
Engine: 434sbc
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: moser 9" with 411 posi
i use the razor blade trick as well. it works really good.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 07:22 PM
  #11  
kretos's Avatar
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
that razor blade tip works great
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 08:23 AM
  #12  
irocbirdbuilder's Avatar
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From: Thornton colorado
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI
Transmission: 700r4
my painter had a few good runs down my pass. door in the clear, he took a 1000 grit over the entire car then a 2000 to get the runs and orange peel out and they are gone cant notice where they were.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 08:35 AM
  #13  
bnoon's Avatar
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
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Originally posted by JeffW
the make a block you can purchase for the razor blade. its called a " run blocker" i think i got mine from eastwood. it hold the blade and has a little nylon screw to set blade depth.it has things on the side of it that helps you follow the surface of the car. this way you can dial in the cut and take off little slices. the run blocker is only a couple bucks. i did use it on one little run on my gfx and it works sweet. great little tool for the novice.

Jeff
I second the run blocker idea. They're also good for over filling chips with touch up paint, then cutting the overfill down to the surface without hurting the surrounding clear coat like sanding alone can do. Blends back in sooooo much easier/better than any other method I've tried... and believe me, I know... I've "spot" painted my car back from really bad looking pealing/flakey factory paint, by only using spray bombs and touch up paint, and it's back to something that actually gets compliments from time to time.
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