Any Tips for Touch-up??
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From: Pittsburgh & Allentown PA
Car: 1992 Z28 (Heritage Edition)
Engine: 305 TPI
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Any Tips for Touch-up??
Well we've had the touch up paint from the Chevy dealer for about a month now but havent gotten around to actually doing it...i don't know whats stopping me...
Anyway, i was just wondering if there were any steps to go through before doing the touchup. I would assume i should wash the car first, but other than that i know nothing. My dad is going to help out (probably even do the whole thing because hes got insane attention to detail), but he was a mechanic, not a body man, so maybe theres stuff he doesnt know about...
The paint chips are far and few between but there are probably like 5 small ones on the hood, like one on the roof right near the front windshield, and one on one of the fender flares...
Anyway, i was just wondering if there were any steps to go through before doing the touchup. I would assume i should wash the car first, but other than that i know nothing. My dad is going to help out (probably even do the whole thing because hes got insane attention to detail), but he was a mechanic, not a body man, so maybe theres stuff he doesnt know about...
The paint chips are far and few between but there are probably like 5 small ones on the hood, like one on the roof right near the front windshield, and one on one of the fender flares...
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Obviously make sure the area is clean and dry. Then put as little paint on the brush as you can, and just dab the chip and let the paint fill it up. Put as little as possible, you can always add more later if you need to. And make sure paint doesn't drip down the shaft of the brush and onto the car...
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Yes, apply as little as possible for it is better to return and apply more once the first bit has set then to have too much. Having too much makes a very noticable bump and usually a big blob will cure looking like a big wrinkled balloon.
For preperation make sure the area is clean and dried and free of any polishes and wax. You want to remove that stuff for proper adhersion. I don't know what is 'proper' to use to remove wax and polishes, I just use a bit of gas or acetone or something similar on a rag to clean a small area. Good luck.
For preperation make sure the area is clean and dried and free of any polishes and wax. You want to remove that stuff for proper adhersion. I don't know what is 'proper' to use to remove wax and polishes, I just use a bit of gas or acetone or something similar on a rag to clean a small area. Good luck.
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From: Pittsburgh & Allentown PA
Car: 1992 Z28 (Heritage Edition)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
how long after i do the touchup should i wait before i wax???
To do it correctly, alcohol will remove any wax or polish. Apply a very thin amount of paint to the chip, then allow it to dry. Apply a second coat, but use clear instead of paint. Build up the chip to be slightly higher than the surrounding paint. Allow this to dry for a day. Use a small sanding block with 2000 grit sandpaper and wetsand the area flush. DO NOT USE YOUR FINGER INSTEAD OF A SAND BLOCK! The block will allow for an even sanding. Use polishing compound and a buffer and the chips will be gone. Nobody will know they even existed if you take your time. Good luck.
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Any automotive or hardware store. It should only cost a few bucks. You could also just wrap some sandpaper around a small piece of wood. Though the block would be better.
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Alrite sounds good, and im assuming that the autoparts store is also gonna have the 2000 grit sandpaper??? Or do i gotta go to like home depot for that.
Also, is it nesscary to use a buffer, because i dont have one and i know those are probably pretty expensive.
Also, is it nesscary to use a buffer, because i dont have one and i know those are probably pretty expensive.
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The auto parts place is more likely to have it than Home Depot. And the buffers can turn into a worthy investment. Especially if you detail cars on the weeknds like me.
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alrite ill try and see if i can afford one. But i do have a certain amount of money alotted for a outdoor car cover..which IMO takes priority over all.
Lets say i cant get the buffer, is it possible to do this job w/o it? Or is there no point of wetsanding until i get the buffer?
Lets say i cant get the buffer, is it possible to do this job w/o it? Or is there no point of wetsanding until i get the buffer?
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From: Pittsburgh & Allentown PA
Car: 1992 Z28 (Heritage Edition)
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
See, here is what i want to know...
I want to 'fix' these few paint chips, and i would like to do it correctly and perfectly, if at all possible. My biggest concern is the paintchips either rusting, or getting bigger. --Now know this, the car has never been driven in winter, and will get put under a car cover in or around november for the entire winter. It is outside about 90% of the time now, and will be when it has the cover over it during the winter. It around november (or after football season), that i should start bringing in more income and then i could buy a buffer if needed (and how much do they cost BTW??).
So my question to you guys, is... Do i fill in the paintchips with the touchup right now and just wait until whenever i can buy a buffer to wetsand it and buff it, or do i just wait until i have the buffer to do all of this, and leave the remaining paintchips untouched until that time???
I want to 'fix' these few paint chips, and i would like to do it correctly and perfectly, if at all possible. My biggest concern is the paintchips either rusting, or getting bigger. --Now know this, the car has never been driven in winter, and will get put under a car cover in or around november for the entire winter. It is outside about 90% of the time now, and will be when it has the cover over it during the winter. It around november (or after football season), that i should start bringing in more income and then i could buy a buffer if needed (and how much do they cost BTW??).
So my question to you guys, is... Do i fill in the paintchips with the touchup right now and just wait until whenever i can buy a buffer to wetsand it and buff it, or do i just wait until i have the buffer to do all of this, and leave the remaining paintchips untouched until that time???
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From: Pittsburgh & Allentown PA
Car: 1992 Z28 (Heritage Edition)
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alright sounds like a plan. but i just need to know how long after doing the touchp can i re-wax the area where i stripped the wax??
Oh, and also, how much should i expect to pay for a buffer when i do decide to get one...
Oh, and also, how much should i expect to pay for a buffer when i do decide to get one...
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I don't recall how much my orbital buffer cost. But do some searching on the boards and shop around for the right type and brand.
Wait at least a few days before you wax the fresh paint. It's only a little spot so I wouldn't worry too much.
Wait at least a few days before you wax the fresh paint. It's only a little spot so I wouldn't worry too much.
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From: Pittsburgh & Allentown PA
Car: 1992 Z28 (Heritage Edition)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
Ok i just did a search of buffers on ebay and i am wondering which of these 2 is more along the lines of what i should be looking for....
Should i be looking for a buffer more like this (cheaper):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...egory=632&rd=1
or one like this (more expensive):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ory=42266&rd=1
And Remember, i only need it for the one purpose of smoothing down the touchup....
1 more thing, are these buffers the kind that will like remove my paint. I've seen some cars that have worn through the clearcoat from being buffed, and i DEFINATELY dont want that..
Should i be looking for a buffer more like this (cheaper):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...egory=632&rd=1
or one like this (more expensive):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ory=42266&rd=1
And Remember, i only need it for the one purpose of smoothing down the touchup....
1 more thing, are these buffers the kind that will like remove my paint. I've seen some cars that have worn through the clearcoat from being buffed, and i DEFINATELY dont want that..
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About burning through the paint- just keep the buffer moving and feel the surface every now and then to see if it's getting warm.
I believe that second buffer you listed would be better. But the first should work. It's not easy being on a budget....
I already sent you a PM.
I believe that second buffer you listed would be better. But the first should work. It's not easy being on a budget....
I already sent you a PM.
The second buffer would be the better bet. You really don't need to exceed 1700 RPM. More than that and you risk the chance of burning paint and rubber mouldings. One thing most people do wrong with there buffer is they move it across the paint too fast and they hold it at an angle. You want to hold the buffer as flat on the paint as possible, lifting the edge only when in a tight spot. Take your time, move at a steady pace, and just hold the buffer. Don't push down on it. Let it run on it's own weight. If you follow these steps, you won't have buffer swirls when the sun hits it.
A used black car on a dealers lot will usually look horrible after they buff it because they buff too fast, push down on the buffer and hold it at an angle.
Need professional tips? Seek out a body shop at a Mercedes or BMW dealership and ask their detailer how he makes the balck cars look so ***.
A used black car on a dealers lot will usually look horrible after they buff it because they buff too fast, push down on the buffer and hold it at an angle.
Need professional tips? Seek out a body shop at a Mercedes or BMW dealership and ask their detailer how he makes the balck cars look so ***.
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New question...Getting ready to take some HIGH resolution shots for that calendar contest thing, and i'm afraid that the little scrapped part on my front spoiler is gonna show up, so i want to touch up that up. I know its plastic, but i am wondering if i can still use the regular factory touchup i have. Also, if there is anythin different to keep in mind when touching up on plastic...
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The touchup paint will work on the plastic. Just clean, dry, and apply. If all else fails, you can always photo shop the scrape.
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What calendar contest?
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