I am getting a '89 Camaro thats got a faded burgandy paint job. I want to have it repainted in White,mostly cause the dark colors are gonna make it really hot (this car has NO a/c).

What are some tips for prepping the car before the paint shop gets ahold of it? Would they do a good enough job usually of sanding where it needs and stuff?

Also,I will be painting under the hood black,the headlight pouches black,and the doorjams white. I have an aerosol setup that will spray whatever paint I give it. Whats a good paint for this from the auto store?
Whats the ratio I should use of paint,thinner,and flex agent for the headlights?
Would X-O Rust grey primer work well enough for primer after I've sanded the doorjams down to the paint?

How many coats of paint and clear cote for the doorjams and under the hood?

Lots o questions,I know...

Thanks!

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LONG LIVE THE F-BODY!!

 

Anyone????

 

That Burgundy is a great color. I would reconsider changing its color myself. It cost quite a bit and the temperature change is not going to be substantial.

If you're not paying much for the paint job cover or remove all trim, windows, windshield or anything else you don't want painted.

And if you change color, remove interior and any other covered metal to hide the color change. Get the engine compartment painted. Again, I don't like color changing, especially to white. If you try to sell it afterwards, good luck. I'd would never buy it, I would think you wrecked it and couldn't cover up all the flaws in the body work.

50/50 paint to thinner
on flex agent, it will say the amount per gallon. The stuff I use is 6oz per quart. Don't have a recomendation or preference for primer, although rust primer is a bit much.

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1989 Camaro Convertible
dark silver w/black top
305tbi, auto, all stock
posi
Check out Phil's Rice Boy Page

 

For prep, as 89RagTop said, remove all emblems- that means logos, wording, and those rubber strips that go along the doors (the name escapes me at the moment).

Is the original paint cracked, peeling, or missing? If the original paint is in great shape (but just faded), then you're more than halfway there! All you need to do is scuff-sand the car.

How do ya scuff-sand? You need either a dual-action "air" sander (requiring a decent $400 shop air compressor), or a "random-orbital buffer", just like one for a wax job. Don't attach sandpaper to your power drill- this is only good for stripping a panel to metal. Using a drill with sandpaper will "gouge" the surface- and such a surface will be visible under new paint!

1. Buy a set of dust masks (a respirator's best) and a pair of safety goggles. Use 'em.

2. Buy quite a few cans of Marhyde's "Total-Prep" or similar paint prep. This stuff removes all bugs/tar/road slime/bird crap/etc from your paint. This must be used according to the can's instructions. If you don't use this stuff, you'll smear all those contaminants into your paint- not good.

3. Attach 320-grit sandpaper to your D/a or buffer. At the time I did my car's bodywork, I didn't have a D/a, so I attached 320 grit paper directly to a buffer (no foam or terry bonnet) using rubber cement.

4. Place the sander on the car body, and turn it on. Sand the car with medium pressure. Don't work too long in one spot- try to do the whole panel (and car) evenly. Don't let the sander dig into the paint- this will cause a ripple that will show through on your new paint job. To tell if you've properly scuff-sanded a panel, the newly sanded area will give the appearance of a faded paint job.

5. Clean the sandpaper often with a brush, or just by smacking your hand against it.


If your current paint has areas that are cracked/peeling/etc, you need to remove these areas down to BARE METAL. You can't paint over this stuff, because the imperfections will show through the new paint. Strip the panel to bare metal and use a lacquer-base primer (such as Plastikote's). Strip the panel down to bare using 40 or 60 grit, then clean the 40/60 grit up with 100, and clean the 100 up with 180. Prime the panel. Use a "tack-rag" (sticky rag, $1.50) before each coat of primer- a tack-rack removes dust so you paint the metal and not the dust.

Hook up your buffer (or d/a) to some 220 grit paper and sand the primer. If you go through to bare metal, prime and sand again. Finally, put 320 grit paper onto the buffer (or d/a) and give it its final sand.

One thing gets me- what do you mean by "sanded the doorjams down to the paint"? Did you mean "sanded down to metal"? If so, you don't have to (and shouldn't) go down to metal. If you didn't, well, there's no reason to shoot primer in those areas. Just scuff-sand the area with 320.

I'd say 2 coats of color, 2 coats of clear.

Oh- other fun things to do for prep: When you arrive at the paint shop, remove any lights that you can. I have a Firebird; I removed all my rear tailights, and I removed my front side marker and my front blinker lights. If possible, unscrew your antenna. Tape up things you don't want taped (like door locks, door handles, the metal edge around the hatchback window, the drip rails above the door windows (if your car has them), the black grill on your front bumper, etc. Fold some tinfoil over your exhaust pipes & tips so those don't get painted.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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