has anyone seen a flat black camaro? i was thinking it would look pretty cool with black wheels and dark windows or something. i kinda like the idea of everyone talking about "the flat black camaro" because i know its one of the fastest steetable 3rd gens in the area.

 

By "flat black" are you reffering to the texture of the paint, or the fact that they car is completely blacked out?

 

No there are no flat black Camaros on here.

 

i just put a fiberglass hood on my car and just painted it flat black. i think it looks badass like that and the hood is enough for the loser to say, damn that camaro with the "flat black hood is fast!"

 

How was that falt black Camaro painted? Did you use primer from a spray can or what? How much is it usually to get a car primered flat black?

 

i seen a few black primered cars before and i like the look if they got the rest to back up the look.

 

It is PPG DP90 Flat black sealer. 1 gallon with 2 quarts of catalyst was $144. This picture is old the car is closer to being complete.
I still need to fix my fuel door and finish the exhaust. It also needs some clear sidemarkers badly.

 

Here's mine.. I done mine with an air compressor and paint gun, 1 gal. of primer (had close to a half gal. left over).

Also look here. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=341498 In that thread I posted a pic of mine still taped up after primering it and a pic of my dad's firebird that I primered for him. (as you'll see I changed hoods after I 1st primered my car so I had to prime the fiberglass hood to match)


Like Orr89RocZ said though to pull off the "hot rod" black primer style with out being called a poser or having people keep asking you when you gonna paint it, you have to have the rest of car to go along with it.

Mine aint the fastest but it's daily driven and ran best of 11.59@118 all on engine. (fixing to upgrade to better heads, cam and add a N20 system so I'm having to install a roll cage so I won't get booted out of the track)

 

can you tell me a little about your combo? carbed or FI? i'm buttoning up a 360 with aluminum l98 heads, an xe274h cam and a 650 double pumper on top...i'm hoping with the rest of the drivetrain combo i have going on that i can break into the 11.9 range...with 11.7's being the ultimate goal...how is streetablity with your car? mine is also my daily driver and i'm a little concerned how it's going to act on the street everyday....this is obviously a temporary solution as i plan to pick up something else (preferably a pickup truck or a v6 thirdgen) to drive everyday.

i also just noticed your located in GA...whereabouts? plan to run the car at Reynolds for the GAFBA shootout on march 19th? i'll be there and would love to meet up with you to shoot the breeze...

 

mw66nova... I'm in northwest GA., 55 miles west of atlanta right off I-20 close to the AL/GA state line. I mostly run at atlanta dragway, but I'm gonna try to make the shootout this year at silver dollar.

Truthfully my engine is pretty mild to run the numbers is does. I post alot on www.nastyz28.com and me and some of the guys over there has talked about this combo. Even though it's mild me and the guys over there thinks it runs what it does cause of the very matched combo to work with max. cyl. pressure and torque.

The engine is 355 cid, 10.18:1 with a crane powermax 272-2 cam. I have 210-218 psi cyl pressure though. GM 462 double hump heads that I spent many many hours porting. Manly 1.94"/1.50" valves, 120 lbs springs when installed at 1.800" (I installed them at 1.725"), ARP screw in rocker studs, guide plates

The bottom end of engine has a scat 9000 crank which is 3 lbs lighter than GM cast, GM "X" rods thats been worked. Weight matched, ARP bolts, big ends resized, shot peened, etc, ARP main studs, windage screen, rear main baffle, 7 qt. kicked out sump pan, FM 4 vr flat top hyper pistons.

Stock .025" deck height, 4.100" x .015" steel shim head gaskets.

1.6 ratio roller tip rockers which bumps total valve lift to .484"/.512"

Edelbrock performer intake that I port matched and ground the divider wall down 1" x 1". Edelbrock 600 cfm carb that I modded, done some smoothing up on it, removed choke blades, and had to jet/rod way up.

alum. under drive pulleys. 5.5" crank pully, 6.6" water pump pulley, 2.812" alt pulley, 5.750" power steering pulley.

Ford tarus 2 speed elec fan, summit 2 core 1" tubes alum. rad., mildon high flow water pump.

alum. 3/8" fuel line, small 35 gph elec pump as a "helper" pump switched on at about 70% throttle with a mirco switch, stock replacement mech. pump for a 70 camaro LT1 350, 3/8" return line, holly dead head reg.

Th-400 trans, rebuilt and transgo reprogramming kit, 11" 2800 stall converter, 7.625" 10 bolt with 3.42 gears, yukon axles, new bearings and seals, powertrax lockright locker, TA alum. support cover.

Spohn SFC, adjustable LCAs, LCA brackets, KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks, V-8 rear springs, stock V-6 front suspension.

I started off with yoko avid st 255/60-15 rear tires and my traction was bad, 60' in the 2.20 to 2.40 range, just all over the place. Now I have Nitto 555R's in 275/60-15 size and my short times came down to 1.70's

Timing is set to 34* total (had to stay mild on timing to stop detonation on pump 93), all in at 3,000 rpm.

Carb is also jetted up on the fat side to help stay out of detonation.

I made quite a few passes to get the car dailed in. Around 100 passes to get the jetting, timing curve, and shift points to the best, quickest ET with still good street use.

I shift 1-2 at 6400 RPM, and found for some reason short shifting 2-3 at 5400 rpm I get a better ET and trap speed.

Sealed cold air setup, K&N 10" by 3.75" air filter

I took a good bit of weight off with un needed brackets, the heavt stock carpet, etc etc. After I 1st built the car I took it to the truck stop and scaled it.

With out me in the car, full 16 gal. of fuel, and 2 10" subs in a rear plate my weight was...
3320 lbs
1900 lbs front
1420 lbs rear

Now I removed even more weight with the glass hood, removed latch and used pins up front, body side molding, etc. and I'm down to..
3293 lbs total with the same fuel and speakers.

The 10 point cage i'm having to put in will add about 160 lbs to that though when I get it in.

I probbly left out something but thats all I can think off right off the bat. If you have any more questions just ask..

Oh yeah you might want to poke around my webshots page. I have quite a few albums on there of pictures of my whole build up.

http://community.webshots.com/user/nightrider327

The car is a pretty good daily driver really. I get 12 to 19 mpg mileage depending on how I drive it. I avg. 14 mpg on city and highway combo driving.

only two harder things about it is the high cyl pressure and making sure I keep out of detonation, and the valve springs. Running hard to the RPM I do all the time I weaken valve springs every now and then but thats pretty norm. for performance cars.

 

back in the day, before the viper red paint...

 

Nice car Night rider327


I was thinking about painting my car flat black for a wile. Probly not going to tho. I plan on primering the new hood fenders and frunt bumper when i put them on and running like that till i paint it Chevy Orange.

 

Necro... Thanks man. It's been a long build (started 12/12/02) and alot of work but I'm proud of it and very happy with the results so far.

 

mw66nova.. Oh yeah I forgot to add the exhaust specs to that build list.

hooker shorty 1-5/8" tubes, 3" coll. headers, dual 2.25" pipes, no cats, flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers.

I'm planning on upgrading the exhaust system soon too though. That was just what I had laying around the yard so I used it.

upgrades planned (i'll do alittle at the time as I have the money for them)... Brodix RR heads, Howards mech. flat tappet cam (286/294, 249/252 @ .050", .534"/.542" lift 106 LSA), larger mech. fuel pump, small 75-150 HP n20 system, MDS digital 6 box, hedman long tube headers, 2.5" dual pipes, 2.5" X pipe, dynomax ultra flow mufflers.

 

very interesting, tell me what you think mine would run then...sounds like i may have reason to be a bit quicker?

holley 750 double pumper
holley street dominator intake manifold
113 casting aluminum l98 heads with 3 angle valve job, bowls blended
xe274h cam .490/.490 230/236 @ .050 with comp 981 springs
crane energizer aluminum roller rockers 1.5 ratio
10.2:1 c/r
hedman longtube headers with dual 2 1/2" pipes with h-pipe and dumped infrontof the rearend.
p/s delete, ac delete, smog delete, computer delete
lightweight aluminum pulleys, stock waterpump, but only 1 groove pulleys, running manual steering box
10" ATI converter, stalls around 2800
BUILT 700r4 with transgo shift kit, rebestas bands, hardened sunshell
10bolt with 4.10s and an eaton posi with an aluminum support cover
275/60/15 m/t et street radials
car has full interior with bass tube, but last i weighed in i was 3270 with me in the car, but that was with an iron headed 305, i know i dropped about 30lbs. off the front of the car by going to the aluminum heads...will also be dropping more weight off the car later.
stock 15x7 aluminum z28 wheels for the moment.

what do you think?

 

Is that with your 305, or 350?

Combo looks pretty good indeed but I see some minor things that would cause you to run slower than what it can run..

Like the cam.. IMO that's too much .050" duration for those heads. Not enough split in the in./ex duration or lift. With stock heads even ported the exhaust ports are the weaker side and by useing a cam with 8 to 12* more duration on the exhaust side and .015" to .040" more lift on the exhaust side you "help" the weaker port out.

Everybody has thier opinion on the L98 heads, just like they do on the double humps I'm running. Both the L98's and the double humps is very out dated and poor heads now days. Some people thinks both are gold mines though.

In stock form the L98's is worse than the 40 year old double hump heads, and that means if both was ported the same the L98's would still not be as good.

The L98's has little 163cc intake port, flow aint great. The smogger 882 heads outflows them across the whole board.

There's more to head flow than peak #'s but just for info the L98's flow 199 cfm on intake at peak and 159 cfm on exhaust at peak.

The 462 double humps flows 218 in and 142 ex., the 882's flows 206 in. and 145 ex.

To get good times with the L98's you'll need alot more than a bowl blend. You'll have to do them like I did my 462's. I re worked the whole head, intake port, exhaust port, bowls, chambers, etc

I took my 156cc intake ports out to 170cc.


I think if you do alot more work to the heads, then look into cams more and match the cam better then with your weight and gear you should have a mid 11 to low 12 second car.

As is now though I would have to say probbly 12.5's or so at best, and probbly around 12.7 or 12.8 avg.

 

i'll just let you know that if i go out and run a 12.8 after adding 50 cubes, more cam and better overall heads i'm going to be severly pissed off...the old 305 ran 13.0's...

this cam was suggested by everyone i talked to, so i hope it works out better than your saying...but yes, i'm running all of this on my 360, not my 305.

 

I hope you the best of luck man.. It's really hard to guess what someone will run. Like when I built mine, I was shooting for a daily driven car that could run atleast 13.20's when dailed in.

1st shakedown pass on it netted me 13.52. Jetting and setting up the timing curve was worth .75 seconds. I hung around 12.7 and 12.8 for quite a while due to traction.. The MPH was what got me. 1st pass I trapped at 114, after the timing, jetting, etc 118. It's ran 117-118 mph for the last year on every pass. Now ET was all across the board cause of traction.

So see guessing would have been way off on mine. Here I am running 11.59 @ 118 and still could get lower ET's cause I'm spinning the Nittos pretty hard if I come up on the converter, launch and got WOT. I have to roll into the throttle still to keep from spinning. I don't reach 100% throttle till about 50 feet out.

Just alittle tip man.. It's great to ask others what they think about X cam, but I don't think I would trust fully anyones opinion on cam size. It's best to research every point of a cam and learn what each thing does and how it does it and what it will do to the power, then make the pick your self.

When I pick a cam.. I look at DCR figures (dynamic compressoion ratio). Pick a cam that gives you 8.00 to 8.25:1 DCR. I try to stay around 8.11 to 8.20 for pump gas engines, Computer est. cyl. pressure (which gets pretty close to real world. It est. mine at 211 psi, and I have 210-218 psi real world)

In real world I want to see 190 to 210 psi cyl pressure. 210-220 psi is in the very high range (about like what a 11.75:1 to 12.5:1 race engine would have) but I do it with lower SCR of 10:1 to 10.25:1 and smaller cam. That kind of cyl psi aint for everyone though. Unless your a very good tuner you'll get into detonation fast.

Then look at head port flow, intake port size, chamber shape, intake to exhaust port flow %.

Not bad mouthing anybody buy who ever told you to run a cam with that small of a deggre and lift split between intake and exhaust didn't understand the poorer exhaust flow on all GM heads. Now that's unless you didnt tell them what heads you'll be running. Even the great vortecs makes more power with 10* to 12* more ex. duration.

I'm sure theres alot of guys on here that knows what they are talking about though, I just aint posted enough on here to know them. Like I said I'm on www.nastyz28.com more than here cause I like the people over there, know alot of them and talked to them longer. Maybe you should look around there on the comp. camaro, high performance, and engine boards of that site.

Oh yeah.. Just something to think about.. Your next cam you might want to look at crane, lunati, howards, etc and stay away from comp. Alot of people runs comp, but that dont mean they are the best. They have more ads running, RP work, etc. I never had much luck with them myself. Seen too many go flat over the years, and it seems like a crap shoot on QC. One days batch will be strong, next day they might be softer. Look up some rockwall hardness test done by other people than comp on them cams and you'll see what I'm talking about. Most hardness test I have seen shows comp at anywhere from 4 to 18% softer than the other brand cams. That could work even though softer, but add alittle too much spring pressure, and you could wipe a lobe quick.

 

hey what wheel and tire combo with backspace did u go with i like the look

 

This is my car, it's flat black but then the blue accents

 

Looks like its unfinished. Like you ran out of blue paint to cover your primer.

What brand "satin/flat" black did you use on this?

 

It's painted with a primer (don't really know what kind) but that way if I want to re-paint I just have to sand it. And me and my dad did the paint job ourselves in the garage.

 

It looks like primer. Its very dry appearing and you can see the stripes from not laying down evenly. I asked because I have pondered replacing the teal on my car with satin black, needed to see what works, and what doesn't.

 

There are soooo many threads on flat black pain jobs here just try a search quick