This is my first real post here. You don't seem to have a noob section, so I'll start with a pic of one of my favorite wheels and a thought.

First, I've been in Mustangs for a very long time, so that's where my knowledge lies (specifically the 4.6). I've owned a 79 400/4spd Trans Am and an 86 Trans Am in the past, but really didn't do much with them. This is really the first f-body I'm planning to do anything with. Here's the thought. Feel free to correct me. I'm in my toddler stage of learning with the GM crowd.

I figured I'd throw up (pun intended) the pics of the car I'm playing with. The previous owner bought 2 brand new front fenders and installed them. He also added the rear panel/lights, the ground effects, the hood, and the doors from a previous Camaro. He got in over his head with the mechanicals and that's where I came in. I picked the car up a few months ago for dirt.

The original intent was to fix the car for my girls, but then I saw the insurance costs. The second thought was to build it as a drag car. Then I saw how complicated it is to make a boosted F-body and tune it properly - when compared to using the SCT Pro Racer software I use on the Mustang. I picked up a Syclone computer, modified the wiring harness to work with the computer, and pick up a 2 bar MAP (amongst other things). It's my understanding you really can't use a MAF system, because the MAF is a restriction and the computer maxes out above a certain airflow. Therefore, it's speed density for the win.

I then decided to sell the car, but that didn't happen either.

I guess I'm back to number two. My intent with this hulk is to focus on low buck. I'm going to do everything but the machine work to the car. I'm pulling the 305/700r4 next weekend in favor of a somewhat built 355. I'll use 113 casting Vette heads. I'll siamese the TPI intake and pick up some SLP runners with a used 58mm throttle body. I could go the easy route with a carb, but I want to stick with EFI. I can go with an aftermarket intake, because the TPI chokes off at 4600, but siamesing should get me a little more range.

I'll be going with a 200r4 for the trans. I'm dumping the 700r4, because it can't really handle much power and the gear spacing between 1st and 2nd leaves a lot to be desired. Besides, there's plenty of Buick folks running a lot quicker than I hope to with the 200r4.

The rear is where the bucks come in to play. It's my understanding you can't really build a 10 bolt to survive much. The only real options are the 9 inch and 12 bolt. $1800 gone right there.

The power adder of choice will be a home built turbo kit. I'm not sure on the a/r yet, because I haven't looked at the maps enough.

Hopefully, with all that crap above, I can break in to the 13s.

Anyway, here's a pic of the car I picked up for a little loose change. The pic is of the rim I'd like to use on it. The rear should be pretty easy, because it will be going anyway. My thought is I'd specify 4th gen rear length (6" backspacing on the 17x10.5 rim) and Ford bolt pattern. The front, on the other hand, will be a bit more challenging.

Please don't flame too much. It is what it is.

 

Glad to have you on the light side!

Hell, with a built 355 hitting 13's shouldn't be too hard. You've got a nice project ahead, we're here to help!

PS: There's no second pic of the rims you like.

 

sounds like a plan.

the rear will probably cost more like 3000 by the time you are done.

 

Thanks for the welcome.

I was being a bit sarcastic about the 13s. My goal is more like mid 11s.

I only posted one pic. I decided against the other pic, because it was pretty much the same pic/different angle.

The rim is a 17x10.5 Ford FR500 rim. It's the rim I'm running on the Mustang. I wanted to see what it would look like on the f-body. First on the agenda is to pull the engine/trans and take care of the engine compartment (weld holes and paint). Then I'll start on the interior with new carpet, rear seat delete, and seats.

I've already removed the a/c, so I'm looking for an a/c delete box.

I honestly couldn't pass up the car. It seems to have a very solid body.

 

Don't do what I did and shell out like $100.00 for a 1LE Heater box, just make your own, or get one from an Gen 1 S-10 or Blazer and drill new holes for it. It'll do the job just right.

 

Whatever you do try not to put those wheels on. ...They may look cool, but their for mustangs ....and that just plain wrong!!!

 

i have an ac delete box and pulley im looking to sell...if youre interested pm me!

 

That's what's right about it. Now they're going on a real car!
Do you not like 9" rearends either?

 

I'm not too concerned with brand loyalty. Hell, I'd throw in a Ford computer if I thought I could use it at a reasonable cost. I wouldn't have a learning curve associated with tuning via speed density vs. MAF.

I like all cars. I've just messed with Mustangs most of the time.

PM sent on the AC box.

 

Those wheels are sweet. My friend has them on his Cobra and they look bad ***. Keep us updated with the project