i would think u should use horizontal


im in the middle of doing myn it was flat but but i wanted somthing alittle more flashy so i decided to go with this paint but gloss i used and old craftsman hvlp gun ive tryed several different mixtures and all come out with this weird texture ?? and i notice some spots are pretty glossy and most of the car isnt ?? any ideas im hoping to just have to wetsand with 1500 and buff it to get it all the way i want it so far ive done about 10 or 12 coats used a little less then 2qts of paint plus its over flat black so i think it would cover fairly well

 

Vertical I believe would be the best. Where as the paint should fan out up and down then you just move your gun from left to right or right to left.

If you have any spots that look a little different the final sand and buff should take care of that.

 

Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to try both patterns and see what pattern works best.

 

he is correct verticle is what you want lol sorry i wasnt thinking to clearly this morning

 

im hoping this does take care of it the paint at the moment feels like sandpaper and is smoother in the spots that are shiny so hopefully your right

 

lol this thread is great so much bad info about painting a car. im just kidding but really this forum should have a paint section where you can learn to do stuff the right way. and yes you can do stuff the right way cheap. im a painter by trade. if this is a temp thing until you can get a nicer paintjob then its cool and all but whoever gets to paint it with a automotive paint system is going to hate you and probably wont even want to touch it. you could have had a much better quality job with just a little bit more effort and not to much more in materials.
if anyone else is considering painting there car plz feel free to ask me any questions aobut the steps i would be happy to help you out

corey

 

you should have coverage with 2-3 coats. you are going to have some serious problems with 10-12 coats your building way to much paint its going to delaminate and peel off down the road more coats does not make a better paint job. your texture problem could be from just about anything. but i would start with the base you first started on if its not flat no matter how many coats you put on it the texture will still be there. gun adjustment is critical to get a good flat finnish reading the back of a paint can will not make you a good painter. everything from distance to how fast you move will decide the outcome. reducer temps will determine how long your paint stays wet so it can flow out. if you dont have the right reducers for the temp then you can have orange peel or runs. everypainter will have a differnt set up its something you learn by just doing it. anyway enough of a rant just ask me questions if you need some help or are having problems

corey

 

 

typical nay sayer

 

This thread is great!
I remember when I first started out in business, all I could afford was a neighbor's beat-up 1973 chevy Stepside for $350. It was a light tan color and really flaking, so I bought a whole case of Rustoleum Gloss White rattle cans and taped it off and shot it.

I went out and bought some Chevy Rally rims with chrome trim rings and raised white letter tires and the truck looked incredible!

That truck looked great for 3 years. I could of bought a newer truck after year #1, but I loved that white Stepside.
The cool part was anytime I, or one of my employees, spilled some paint on it I'd just break out a can and touch it up.

I sold the truck for $500 -- never did anything but add those wheels/tires and change the oil. I don't know if I'd do a spray-can paint job on a 3rd Gen F-body, since you can get the paint, reducer and solvents for around $150. I think I'd rather go with the glossier look.
But nice job anyway! Thanks for bringing back the memory of my old '73.

 

Was that an extreme dimensions SS hood?

 

Odd how those aftermarket fiberglass hoods break that easy when the stock 82 z28 hoods don't seem to have that problem at all. I know the material is slightly different then fiberglass but not by much.

 

they are light coats so im not worried.

I did not rattle spray can this just fyi.

Yes it was a extreme dimensions SS hood.

Its just cheap people tring to make good money.

 

So how did it turn out? Lets see some pics.

 

Responding several years after your post....but I'm currently doing my Firebird with Rustoleum and I gather that the techniques and quality of using the product has advanced since 2009...would you say that I would still need to buff and wax so often if I used the High Gloss Enamel with the UV protection that is currently on the market in 2024? I'm still priming so I am on the fence about rattle cans or a Wagner....thoughts?

 

FYI, not suggesting anything one way or another...have you seen these recent videos?