Hey guys I'm painting my car a Kandy Burple from House of Kolor, I also ordered the SG150 intercoat clear to mix with flakes. Just wondering if someone could help me out, not sure if i apply flakes before or after kandy basecoats? Let me know thanks alot.

 

what is burple?
i would like to see the answer to your question too.

 

I don't know for sure, but I'd think before - as the candy is transperant. I painted HOK Kandy Teal - my painter sprayed the entire car with metallic silver flake first, so that the flake shines through the candy. As I understand it, there has to be a uniform color under the candy, since the candy is transperant - I don't think you can just spray candy paint on top of non-uniform primered spotty blotchy mess, unless you want non-uniformed blotchy spotty result.

 

I bet the answer is in their Tech books. Got a tech sheet for the kandy base coat? I might have one. With the SG150 on top of the base would be more visible I would think and under would be more ghostly.
You know what they would say "spray a test panel for desired effect".

I bet it is gonna look nice I always had a thing for Burple but did not know if I would still like it later.

 

Thanks guys for all the advice. I went ahead and called the guy today (he definately talks down to customers if they sound like they are newbs at painting lol) but he said that the Kandy Burple i am using (kbc 13) is not the transparent kind that camaronewb you were talking about. But thats what i originally thought to cuz i saw a youtube vid on how the flake went on first and it didn't exactly make it clear in the manual. So yea steve you were right, its going to go on top of Kandy basecoat. Also i'm using a primer sealer called KO SEAL II, over the original OEM primer, the guy said this should be fine just as long as i don't sand through the original primer. So before i order any paint I'm doing the body to see if i can't save a little bit of money and just try to sand to the primer. By the way, anybody have any tips and manouvers that would help me so i don't sand through primer?? It says to use 80 grit to take off old layers, then 280-320 grit to smooth, then 400-500 wet to finally smooth before sealer, does this sound about right? Again any tricks or tips? Thanks alot guys i appreciate the help

 

Most painters have a method they prefer. I usually cut with 180 to start but I will 2k primer over and block it till it is ready then a 2k coat thinned to act as a sealer then wet 500 before first basecoats go on.
Most of the cars I paint have body work on them and all this is to get it straight. I do not understand the attempt to just remove the existing top coats-the block sanding is more important.
I do leave the factory primer on most if there is no pealing or adhesion issues but if I do I use an etching primer for bare metal.

 

So 180 grit to just take top coats off and won't take off primer? I just want to save money cuz house of kolor primer is pretty expensive.

 

i agree with steve, start with the 180 and work your way up. as far as the kandy's and flakes go make sure you strain them first. depending on the type gun you are going to use and needle size you dont want spitting to occur! take your time above all!

 

I always add the flake to first clear coat. If you are using a gun with paint container on top(gravity feed), you will have to find a way to keep flake mixed with the clear. A gun with the paint container on the bottom(pressure feed) of the gun just put ball bearings in the container and move the gun around between spray lines (not while spraying). I have a gravity gun with a built in mixer in the top, It looks like a small mixer beater blade and it is air driven. Also make sure your guns tip is large enough for flake to pass through. If you are using a medium or larger flake you will need several coats of clear to cover the flake and this way you will have enough clear to buff off anf not cut into the flake. Not all flake will lay flat and some are formed flake with lines stamped into them to really reflect the light.