ZZ42Fast

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys. Removing all my stripes and door decals as they were positioned wrong. The stripes have been easy, use a hairdryer to start with then peel back.

Door decals were going well and got them off ok but look what I'm left with. The outline of the letters seems to be deeper than the paint on the door. What can I do do you think? Any help really welcome!!

CaliChevyLover

did the decals look like they had clearcoat on them? looks like the paint may have been clearcoated AFTER the stickers were applied.

maybe wetsanding/buffing...but wait for more experienced advice. just commenting on what I think caused it

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like clear over the decal.

But one thing you can try, which won't hurt the paint, is one of the eraser wheels that also works well to remove adhesives left behind by such things as the door edge molding. I used a eraser wheel, and still have it, on my black 97 Tahoe that I bought in 02. Even after 5 years of them having been there, the day I took them off you never would have known they had been there. The black OEM paint was completely undamaged by the eraser wheel.

You can pick them up at any auto body place, possibly even a body shop would sell you one of theirs.
Graphics Eraser Wheel

ZZ42Fast

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys, thanks for this, yes I reckon clear over the decal.

How can I blend it in again?

Thanks guys

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

It's either clearcoat, or old old old left over adhesive. Often times vinyl will shrink just a little bit over several years, but the adhesive can be left unshrunk, and you get what you have there.

...if it's clearcoat, you'll have to buff, sand, polish, which I'm capable of doing, but won't pretend to be an expert on, and on't give you advice!!! LOL

I do know vinyl. I'm a sign guy, and have done hundreds of vehicle graphics and wraps. While stephen is correct about the eraser, your best bet would be to do it by hand. The eraser is better suited to actually removing vinyl, not the adhesive left behind. While it WILL work, it's probably overkill, and could potentially cause paint problems. I'd start with some goo gone from Lowes or HD. Grab some paper towels, and possibly your fingernail or some sort of PLASTIC scraper, and see what you can do. Will this take longer than the erase, YES. No doubt, but it's the least likely to cause problems.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I've gotta disagree with the Goo Gone idea. And yes, I was a vinyl installer for over 6 years....Install, which included vehicle graphics & wraps, removing old stuff & putting new stuff on, pole signs, billboards, neon lit signs, channel letters.......Was my sole job at 5 different places (some were bought out by larger companies). Sometimes it was working for 2 different places employed & doing their installs. And I still do vehicle graphics, mainly club window decals, from home.

While Goo Gone is a pretty safe chemical, it is just that....A chemical. And you'll want to do a touch up polish afterwards, to blend that areas shine in with the rest of the car. Nothing major, but that adds another step. Yes, you'd want to wash the area after the eraser too, but washing is easier than waxing/polishing. We're both right, I just try to avoid chemicals on paint, whenever I have a choice.

If it is leftover clear coat? You'll need to color sand/polish/wax/etc.

The only way the eraser can hurt your paint, is is you just sit in one spot & let the heat build & build. Same as with an electric orbital waxer/polisher or over sanding one spot. I was the detail guy at a body shop years ago too, after the car rolled out of the paint booth.

ZZ42Fast

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys- almost 100% sure it is the fact the decals were clearcoated. Somehow I need to get the exposed areas clearcoated and rub down. Any body guys with advice?

I spent a lot of time just working on one small area to make sure it wasn't left over vinyl, so sure now.

Chainshot

Get some 2000 grit sand paper and large paint mixing stick. Wrap the paper around the stick. Or you can buy the sanding blocks and wrap paper around them. What you are doing is color sanding the area and blocking it flat with the sandpaper/stick. You will want to sand in a cross-hatch manner. Your right hand should be at about the 1-2 o'clock position and your left hand 7-8 o'clock position. Make about 5 strokes like that. Then reverse it so your left hand is at about the 10 o'clock position and right hand at the 5 o'clock. Again about 5 strokes. Alternate back and forth like that a few times. You can apply water with a sponge, hose, or spray bottle.

You will then need to buff the area and wax it. I prefer 3M and Meguiars. You may be able to do a small area by hand. But a Porter Cable 7424, with foam pads, will make the job easy and you can buff out the rest of the car to. It is a good investment. Stay away from edges and corners. The paint is VERY thin there. Just put masking tape over the edges and corners. The 7424 doesn't turn as fast as a larger buffer. So they are pretty safe for anyone to use.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...rrari-288-gto/

ZZ42Fast

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for taking the time out to help. So am I doing the whole of the bottom door like this or only the areas around the remaining IROC-Z imprint?

Chainshot

You can try just sanding the imprint area. But compound and wax the entire bottom of the door. Have a look after you finish. You can always go back later and do all of the door.

You can even start with 1500 grit paper to speed things up. Then go with the 2000, compound, buff, and wax. If you get a 7424 or similar tool. You may can eliminate the sanding step all together. Just hit the area with a coarser wool pad and compound. Then progress to a finer pad and compound. Pads and compounds are like sandpaper - they come in various 'cutting' levels. Coarse to very fine.

A good detail or paint shop can also do this for you. If you don't feel comfortable or can't find/buy all the materials. My 7424 cost around $100 USD. Then I spent another $100 on pads, compounds, and wax. I had several cars to do and still use it. So it was worth the investment for me.

ZZ42Fast

iTrader: (2)

The problem I will have though is that there will always be that area that will be un-clear coated. I may have to get the door professionally red-done

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

i disagree with all of the above. that door (or at least the bottom section) has to be sanded with 600 RE SPRAY COLOR AND CLEAR COAT , why because if u look close on the pic, looks like the clear is peeling off on the edge, that suggest bad prep when it was painted so color sanding and buffing will not do the trick,

BUT im just judging by what i see on the pic.

86NiteRider

iTrader: (10)

If you want it 100% right for sure then yes you must re paint color and clear. But I would try wet sanding the clear first then rebuffing. If you like the result then you came out ahead of the more expensive repaint way.

ZZ42Fast

iTrader: (2)

The clear is only peeling off at the edges due o me removing the decal though. Damn, wish I'd never taken them off

Strangely the other side is absolutely fine!

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

that b/c they only "sanded" around the decal and thats why its peeling off and as far as the other side they didn't spray it thats why its fine