yeah thats right i just bought a car and the last guy spray painted the car blue, how much work am i gonna have to do to prep the car for painting, gonna take it to maaco and get the 300 dollar paint job and just get an extra layer of clearcoat and wet sand it afterwards. Do i just need to sand the paint off or a lot more then that?

 

gonna hafta sand down to some real paint I'm afraid

the new paint will use the original for a primer in away

and this is one time macco will actually look better

good luck
Rich

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www.angelfire.com/ri/camarogarage

 

Same here... I have a 91 RS... I HATE the paintjob. It's peeling on the GFX on the drivers side and on the front spoiler. It was originally teal... now it's a metallic blue. But the thing is... when you open the doors... you see BRIGHT teal again... This spring me and my dad are gonna sand the car down and take it to maaco to get it painted. My question is... Can I get the car painted at Maaco the teal color... and take it to someone I know and get ghost flames put on it?

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'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels on the way, Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp, Kelly Charger Front Tires. Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Carpet, Floor Mats, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.
http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html

 

Maaco can get any factory color... of course, it's a cheap brand. I had a $400 Maaco job done after doing all my own bodywork. It kept it's shine pretty well, until I decided to stop washing/waxing the car. Now I'm busy trying to resurrect the paint (and I think I found out how, https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/003950.html ). One thing- buy the "full" clear coat; don't get the garbage that they mix into the paint (like I did). I have so many chips in my hood... they should've been chips in a clear coat instead of chips in my paint.

One tip though- if you do your own bodywork, somehow indicate on the car where any filler work is. I had two small spots on my hood. The boneheads sanded the spots FLAT; I guess they got overzealous with the sanding machine. So my perfect hood has two flat spots in it... dammit.

Finally, I think I'll be painting my car myself next time. For less than $400, I hear I can buy quality, brand-name paint. I already have a compressor, all I need is a gravity feed gun, and I'll be set.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Oh- oops- use 320 grit paper on a d/a sander to prep your old paint. If you don't have a compressor and a d/a sander, you can do what I did 5 years ago. I used rubber cement (you remember that stuff from school) to put 320 grit paper on my dad's orbital buffer/polisher.

The 320 will scuff your old paint, remove any old paint that adhered poorly, and leave a good "tooth" for the new paint.

Using a sandpaper disc on a drill will gouge your paint, and that means you'd have to take that panel down to bare metal, and re-prime it. Caution: Spray-can primers are NOT waterproof!!!! (I learned that the hard way.) I think a "primer/sealer" is; you can find it through http://www.eastwoodcompany.com if you can't find it locally.

If you have any areas of original paint that are checked/cracked, you should remove those areas to bare metal and re-prime them. If the "spray-can topcoat" is cracked, but the factory paint underneath is fine, you probably don't have to go to bare metal. More than likely the previous owner didn't prep the original surface well.

Oh- final thing- you need to make sure your car is FREE of wax/bird crap/tar/bugs/road film/etc! Otherwise you'll be embedding that junk into your paint as you sand! Use something like Marhyde's "Total Prep" to clean the surface before you start. You spray it on, let it sit, then wipe it off, then wash it off. Eastwood sells another brand of the cleaner, too.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)