My Trans Am got hit about a week ago in the driver's door, and I finally got the insurance companies estimate and took it to the shop. While there, I asked the guy if he could sand and repaint my stock fin. No problems, but to save money, I took it off. I know..4 bolts..big savings.

I took these just before I left this morning showing this residu/scale surrounding the area where the fin bolts to the hatch. The right is cleaner as I tried some rubbing compund real quick like before I left.

I would like to know how to get this residue/scale looking stuff off the rear piece before I replace the fin (after the body guy is done).



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Chris G
91 TA WS6


See more of her here!
Wise man once say "Red ones go faster!"

[This message has been edited by cg91ta (edited October 29, 2001).]

 

all i can say is to buff it and see if that helps.

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Brandon
"ScreaminDeamin 360"
350 60 over, TRW forged 9.83:1 pistons,Hooker Comp headers, crane cam 216/228 .484/.512, crane 1.6 RR's, ported plenum, home made ram air, 24lb SVO injectors, crane AFPR, all going through 3 inch mandrel pipe and a flowmaster.
New project-89 IROC-305 5spd...Jamex Springs...and thats just about it!Soon- 6 speed, Pro 5.0 shifter and 4.10's

http://ScreaminDeamin.cz28.com

 

1000-1500 grit sandpaper. You'll have to buff it out when you're done so there's no scratches left in the paint.

 

stay away from stock paint and clear coat with 1000-1500 grit paper. i wetsand/buff/detail cars everyday at a body shop and when i have to wetsand a scratch or something on the stock paint. i ALWAYS use 2000 grit. well one reason is that the since the scratches arent as deep they buff out quicker, and you will be less likely to burn through with 2000.

anyways, try some adhesive cleaner or something like interior cleaner 3M brand.

anyways.. hope it comes off there, but if not
YOU CANT SEE IT ANYWAYS. otherwise you would have noticed it along time ago.



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Jarrad
United States ARMY Military Police Officer 339th Division


formerly owned:
1990 IROC-Z L98

 

The outermost ring was quite visible especially the stuff on the glass. It looked like I had forgotten to take the wax off. I usually showed it with the hatch raised as the fin had the ol' clearcoat leprosy. It will be nice to have the fin in pristine condition.

Jarrad, I used some fine cut rubbing compound and it barely touched the visible scale like substance, so I will try some 2000 grit. Is there a specific 3M product you would recommend? I appreciate all the suggestions!



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Chris G
91 TA WS6


See more of her here!
Wise man once say "Red ones go faster!"