Motorized hatch
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Motorized hatch
Just got my 83 TA, but it doesn't have a motorized hatch...
I was wondering if it's easy enough to put one in? Hawk's has them cheap enough brand new, or I could just hit the junkyard. Fully realizing I'd have to run wiring, of course...
Basically what I'm asking is, is it just unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one?
I was wondering if it's easy enough to put one in? Hawk's has them cheap enough brand new, or I could just hit the junkyard. Fully realizing I'd have to run wiring, of course...
Basically what I'm asking is, is it just unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one?
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Knoxville, TN
I really think it would be tough. I am not sure exactly if it can be done but the rear molding will have to be gotten because the unit needs more space and the arm than makes the connection that is mounted on the hatch. I have rebult mine and it looks like it would be a hand full to convert one.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
No it isn't as simple as "bolt the motorized one in place of the old one". The mounting pads that the unit mount to that are welded on the body are different. You can either fabrcate new ones yourself or cut some out of a 86-90 car and weld, screw or Pop-rivet them into yours. Then you ca run the wiring. BTW, the new hatch motor that Hawkes sells is ONLY the replacement motor and motor housing for the 1986-91 hatch pull-down units. You'd still need the frame to mount it into, gear nut, drive rod, reversing switch, latch sensing switch with wiring and the latch unit. I sell this relacement motor as well on my web site (but improve it by reinforcing the plastic motor housing). I also sell the entire hatch pull-down units in two versions (rebuilt and re-manufactured)for the 1986-87 & 1988-91. The difference is explained in the item descriptions.
Good luck,
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
www.Top-DownSolutions.com
Good luck,
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
www.Top-DownSolutions.com
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Joined: Oct 2002
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Originally posted by lonsal
No it isn't as simple as "bolt the motorized one in place of the old one". The mounting pads that the unit mount to that are welded on the body are different. You can either fabrcate new ones yourself or cut some out of a 86-90 car and weld, screw or Pop-rivet them into yours. Then you ca run the wiring. BTW, the new hatch motor that Hawkes sells is ONLY the replacement motor and motor housing for the 1986-91 hatch pull-down units. You'd still need the frame to mount it into, gear nut, drive rod, reversing switch, latch sensing switch with wiring and the latch unit. I sell this relacement motor as well on my web site (but improve it by reinforcing the plastic motor housing). I also sell the entire hatch pull-down units in two versions (rebuilt and re-manufactured)for the 1986-87 & 1988-91. The difference is explained in the item descriptions.
Good luck,
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
www.Top-DownSolutions.com
No it isn't as simple as "bolt the motorized one in place of the old one". The mounting pads that the unit mount to that are welded on the body are different. You can either fabrcate new ones yourself or cut some out of a 86-90 car and weld, screw or Pop-rivet them into yours. Then you ca run the wiring. BTW, the new hatch motor that Hawkes sells is ONLY the replacement motor and motor housing for the 1986-91 hatch pull-down units. You'd still need the frame to mount it into, gear nut, drive rod, reversing switch, latch sensing switch with wiring and the latch unit. I sell this relacement motor as well on my web site (but improve it by reinforcing the plastic motor housing). I also sell the entire hatch pull-down units in two versions (rebuilt and re-manufactured)for the 1986-87 & 1988-91. The difference is explained in the item descriptions.
Good luck,
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
www.Top-DownSolutions.com
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I haven't done the conversion. Your unit uses a smaller mount pattern. It more than likely will interfere with the new mounts.
Lon
Lon
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,480
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From: El Paso, Texas
Car: 1987 IROC Z
Engine: 350 TPI L98 block
Transmission: 700R4
Me and my bud did something similar to that. My hatch is motorized, but the damn thing rarely worked. We replaced both the motor and the switch, but to no avail. We found that it was a relay in between that was funkin up so we ran the release solenoid directly to the switch bypassing the relay. This works fine for us, the only problem is that now I can pop the hatch at any given time (while driving or standing still). Im inclined to believe that this was that relay's function, but eh.. it works..
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