Underbody color?
#1
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Underbody color?
what color should i paint the underbody?
gray or black.......i think candy would be a bit much for a car i plan to drive alot. needs to be a color that can be touched up nicely.
gray or black.......i think candy would be a bit much for a car i plan to drive alot. needs to be a color that can be touched up nicely.
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Car: 1983 Camaro "SC-350"
Engine: Mild 350 4-bolt
Transmission: 700R4 w/ TCI Stall
How about.....undercoating, then with black paint on top of it. Makes a good sound deadener while preventing rust!
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i plan to use por like normal, but i'm against true "undercoating" i don't drive it through harsh elements so it isn't necessary and truthfully i've seen some great damage caused by such a process on many vehicles.
just help me pick a color please?
just help me pick a color please?
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Car: 02 WS6 White/Ebony
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.42
I'm getting ready to paint mine with por 15 since it is supposed to be impervious to rust, but I'm using a light gray type I believe they call it colorcoat. I was gonna do black but the more I thought of it a light gray would reflecct light better which will help when tooling around under it. Also if you notice most of the nascar teams use a shade of light gray on the chassis, engine bay, and interior.
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
I am doinf mine in POR-15 this spring as well. I am using a pneumatic die grinder first and removing any spot of rust, clean it and then coat it. Unfortunately there are many pockets that I wont be able to get to. But whoever owned it before me must have driven it here in Mich with all the salt on the roads.
The trans and rear are coming out anyway so its great timing.
Kandied I'd recommend a product like POR-15 or a rubber based coating. I wanted to get the underbody coated when I got it painted but he said it would cause it to rott quicker.
The trans and rear are coming out anyway so its great timing.
Kandied I'd recommend a product like POR-15 or a rubber based coating. I wanted to get the underbody coated when I got it painted but he said it would cause it to rott quicker.
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well if your going to use the p.o.r i wouldn't get rid of all the rust. it won't adhere to perfect metal. you have to use an etcher which esentially eats away at the metal so it can adhere.
if properly set painting it smooth works just fine, this car is only driven on nice days so it will last.
just trying to decide a color....thanks for all the suggestions.
if properly set painting it smooth works just fine, this car is only driven on nice days so it will last.
just trying to decide a color....thanks for all the suggestions.
#14
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Kandied,
I say go with the gloss or semi-gloss black. I did my wheel wells with a semi-gloss and it looks great. I do like the idea of a light gray, but I think it would show too much dirt and grease. Just my .02 cents. Thomas
I say go with the gloss or semi-gloss black. I did my wheel wells with a semi-gloss and it looks great. I do like the idea of a light gray, but I think it would show too much dirt and grease. Just my .02 cents. Thomas
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Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Originally posted by Kandied91z
well if your going to use the p.o.r i wouldn't get rid of all the rust. it won't adhere to perfect metal. you have to use an etcher which esentially eats away at the metal so it can adhere.
well if your going to use the p.o.r i wouldn't get rid of all the rust. it won't adhere to perfect metal. you have to use an etcher which esentially eats away at the metal so it can adhere.
Im doing the underside, inside and engine bay. The bay will then be scuffed since its gloss-black and primed with por-15 primmer. smoothed then painted.
The underside can stay black.
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
If you are painting over a semigloss you must scuff it to remove the sheen otherwise the paint will not properly adhere. Paint will not adhere to smooth surfaces well. But you can paint over a flat or satin finish paint.
As far as bare metal you are correct, most paints have difficaulty adhering to smooth metal. Therefor you need an etcher or a direct to metal primer. por inlcuded an etcher with the kit.
As far as color I am going with satin black. I don't care for high sheen levels. ANd black is just a nice standard color that rarely looks out of place.
As far as bare metal you are correct, most paints have difficaulty adhering to smooth metal. Therefor you need an etcher or a direct to metal primer. por inlcuded an etcher with the kit.
As far as color I am going with satin black. I don't care for high sheen levels. ANd black is just a nice standard color that rarely looks out of place.
#17
Originally posted by drain89
Also if you notice most of the nascar teams use a shade of light gray on the chassis, engine bay, and interior.
Also if you notice most of the nascar teams use a shade of light gray on the chassis, engine bay, and interior.
I painted mine gloss black with POR15 after doing SFCs and it looks great.
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Car: 98 Trans Am 85 Trans Am
Engine: LS1 Lg4
Transmission: 4L60E 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 2.73
Have you thought about maybe using a product like rhino lining if done right it could look quite good and be very chip and scratch resistant but no matter what black is definately the way to go.
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not to worried about the chip part.....just the rust part.
i don't drive my car through enough harsh elements to need a rhino lining setup. not that it's a bad idea though.
i don't drive my car through enough harsh elements to need a rhino lining setup. not that it's a bad idea though.
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
Kandied, how much would a job like this cost? I have been thinking about it for a while. Being under my car and seeing all of the "imperfections", it would look better painted and protected! Roughly, what should it cost? I know you probally have a discount, i would just need an estimate for the average customer, thats all. Also, what would be the steps or the process? I think TPI383 explained it pretty well, i just did not know that por-15 stuff had a primer also! Time to look it up on Google. Thanks-later
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something like the underside i would do myself..........no reason to pay someone.
however, if i were to pay someone i'd be looking at roughly 500 for my color with a slight discount. just to give you an idea.
since i'm going black and i like to do as much as i can myself i will do it myself.
i'm hesitant to use the por only because once it's on it's rather difficult to get off. i don't go through harsh areas so i don't need such a touch layer. if it were a daily driver then i might do it.
still undecided, either way i'll have roughly $40 in supplies to finish the whole underside.
however, if i were to pay someone i'd be looking at roughly 500 for my color with a slight discount. just to give you an idea.
since i'm going black and i like to do as much as i can myself i will do it myself.
i'm hesitant to use the por only because once it's on it's rather difficult to get off. i don't go through harsh areas so i don't need such a touch layer. if it were a daily driver then i might do it.
still undecided, either way i'll have roughly $40 in supplies to finish the whole underside.
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
Do you have access to a lift? I would have to do it in my driveway on jackstands. I guess i could manage to do it, just cleaning everything off first would be a PITA! I would like to clean things up a bit with some type of compressor or maybe a powerwasher. Kinda hard on jackstands IMO. I could see the materials price, but that is a lot of money for the labor, damn, would not have guessed it. I guess when i really get serious i should ask my body shop if they do this type of work. Thanks
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Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Originally posted by 86IROCNJ
Do you have access to a lift? I would have to do it in my driveway on jackstands. I guess i could manage to do it, just cleaning everything off first would be a PITA! I would like to clean things up a bit with some type of compressor or maybe a powerwasher. Kinda hard on jackstands IMO. I could see the materials price, but that is a lot of money for the labor, damn, would not have guessed it. I guess when i really get serious i should ask my body shop if they do this type of work. Thanks
Do you have access to a lift? I would have to do it in my driveway on jackstands. I guess i could manage to do it, just cleaning everything off first would be a PITA! I would like to clean things up a bit with some type of compressor or maybe a powerwasher. Kinda hard on jackstands IMO. I could see the materials price, but that is a lot of money for the labor, damn, would not have guessed it. I guess when i really get serious i should ask my body shop if they do this type of work. Thanks
Check out www.por15.com they have tons of diff products.
The rhino lining would be nice to but I already have por 15 for my engine bay so Just gona do it all in it.
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
Damn, now that i think about it, it does sound pretty bad! If you have the right tools it can be done though, like many things, just a pain and time consuming if you do not have all of the tools! Thanks for that link 383. Later
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