Easy T-Tops squeak fix
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 88
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From: Guatemala, Central America
Car: '90 Camaro RS T-Top
Engine: 5.0 TBI
Transmission: TH700R4
Easy T-Tops squeak fix
Hey guys, thought I might share this with all of you with T-tops.
I was repainting the black T-top edges, and noticed that the holes in the A and B pillars where the locking pins engage, had dirt in them, and a powdery residue.
I cleaned it all up, as well as the weatherstripping and channels, and put just a little dab of #2 chassis grease in the holes. No more squeaks from the T-tops!! the car is quieter now...(I will put subframe connectors later on, to further eliminate chassis deflection).
see ya
I was repainting the black T-top edges, and noticed that the holes in the A and B pillars where the locking pins engage, had dirt in them, and a powdery residue.
I cleaned it all up, as well as the weatherstripping and channels, and put just a little dab of #2 chassis grease in the holes. No more squeaks from the T-tops!! the car is quieter now...(I will put subframe connectors later on, to further eliminate chassis deflection).
see ya
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,967
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove Village, IL
Car: 1989 TransAm GTA
Engine: One sweet modified 355 TPI.
Transmission: The kind that shifts....
I have C&C T-tops so my setup is a bit different than most people. I will try the grease idea though. If anyone has some nice tips on quieting down the C&C T-Tops then I'm game.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Guatemala, Central America
Car: '90 Camaro RS T-Top
Engine: 5.0 TBI
Transmission: TH700R4
If they rattle, I think it might be due to worn weatherstripping; or maybe the holes have enlongated from the wear - that's where the grease comes in handy, to prevent that (I think that was the powder in the holes, tiny bits of plastic). That might let the parts flop around when the chassis flexes, and if the weatherstripping has gaps where it has worn out, that might leave the glass unsupported, and lets it move around.
Maybe a thin plastic bushing in the holes can help? another idea might be to put some epoxy around the edges of the hole, and the drill it to the perfect outside diameter of the locking pins? (with some chamferring of the hole edge, to help guide the pin in when the handle is pulled) I'm just saying what comes to my imagination, but it might give you other ideas in order to fix that.
I will still put on SFC's as soon as I can, to help the flexing and improve the handling.
Maybe a thin plastic bushing in the holes can help? another idea might be to put some epoxy around the edges of the hole, and the drill it to the perfect outside diameter of the locking pins? (with some chamferring of the hole edge, to help guide the pin in when the handle is pulled) I'm just saying what comes to my imagination, but it might give you other ideas in order to fix that.
I will still put on SFC's as soon as I can, to help the flexing and improve the handling.
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