plastic welding
plastic welding
Anyone know how to do this? I picked up the plastic welding kit from Harbor Freight, but it doesn't have any instructions other than hooking up the equipment. It seems to be pretty much like soldering, but I don't know how to tell one type of plastic from another. I guess I'm going to have to go by feel.
I want to give it a try real soon, my parents keep nagging me for all types of uses for it. ("Can you use your plastic welder thingy on my vaccuum?"). I can't wait to try it.
Mathius
I want to give it a try real soon, my parents keep nagging me for all types of uses for it. ("Can you use your plastic welder thingy on my vaccuum?"). I can't wait to try it.
Mathius
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Quebec
Car: 94 Firebird
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: t5
mainly there is 2 types of plastics... sandables and non-sandables... the sandanbles are easy to repair since all you need is epoxy to wield them back together... the non-sandanble is where your plastic welder comes into play. Now you can spend alot of time trying to identify which type of plastic you are trying to repair or you hit your average autopart store and ask for a universal plastic rod which will work with any plastic. As for welding, you sand with rough grit (80) the part you want to repair and weild the rod to the dammaged part... if the piece is broken (meaning, became 2 pieces for exemple) you need a reinforcement, somekind of plastic screen (also sold in autoparts stores) which you stick under the pieces to put them back together and add some welding material to keep it welded to the plastic then fill the gaps on the other side...
if I wasn't clear enough, don't be shy and pm me with any question you might have
if I wasn't clear enough, don't be shy and pm me with any question you might have
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 2
From: Monticello, IN USA
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
Okay, I've got one. What are you suppose to use to fill in body indentations like where the "Z28" is on the lower front gfx. I want to fill this, and get some different badges of some sort to put over it. Such as SS badges or something.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
I would use SEM 39508 Rigid/TPO Repair Material. I used that to shave off my front emblem, and my stock front blinker holes.
I am probably going to do what you are talking about, only just fill in the area, and not put anything there at all.
I am probably going to do what you are talking about, only just fill in the area, and not put anything there at all.
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Quebec
Car: 94 Firebird
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: t5
plastic welding is NOT for dash repair... believe me... it won't do a good job.. if you really want to keep this dash professionals are there for it but try to find a new one in a junk yard... as for filling use the universal rod I told you about... takes a bit of sanding but it works great...
note that the gfx's are not made of the same plastic as the bumpers, to repair the gfx's all you need is semi flexible epoxy
note that the gfx's are not made of the same plastic as the bumpers, to repair the gfx's all you need is semi flexible epoxy
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
to repair the gfx's all you need is semi flexible epoxy
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
I'm not quite sure what your talking about... the Repair Material doesn't melt anything, it's kind of like flexable bondo. I used it to fill in my front emblem, just smeared it on like peanut butter, I don't see why it wouldn't work for the side GFX. I don't want to try it if it's not going to work though.
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Quebec
Car: 94 Firebird
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: t5
ah... then I never heard about what you are talking about.. I know that the bumpers are made of TPO plastic.. meaning that it can't be glued but needs to be welded together... and that the gfx's are of ABS plastics which you can glued together (aka using epoxy) so I can't guaranty you that it will work... but you can attempt a fast repair then try to work the gfx's a bit, twisting them gently (they can hold up a good beating, don't worry) if the stuff hold up you can finish the repair
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
hm... I think I'll head down to the paint supply store, they have walked me through what materials to use so far, they might know about this.
I'll let yall know what they say!
I'll let yall know what they say!
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Quebec
Car: 94 Firebird
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: t5
cool thanks... keep up posted on your repairs as well.. I'm in the process of bonding the plastic grilles to the fenders and hood and repairing the gfx's myself.... so I know what you are going thru
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 1
From: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
I don't understand why it wouldn't work on a dash? The major crack I have is on the very top center for the vent. It split right on the corner parallel with the vent fins. I also have a few small ones under the dash pad where you can't even see them unless you're looking under it.
If it really won't work, what kind of professionals should I look for to do it?
If it really won't work, what kind of professionals should I look for to do it?
Welding Plastics?
Dash coverings are expanded vinyl. Dash trim is usually ABS (a thermoplastic styrene).
I'm not sure of what kind of "ground effects" parts anyone might be asking about, but some of the factory lower body trim pieces (the ones that look pretty) are usually urethane on older cars, and TEO on newer cars The actual ground effect pieces (the black ones under the front and sides of the car) are PVC or ABS.
PVC, CPVC, TEO, polypropylene, nylon, polyethylene, and ABS can be welded easily. Styrene, GRP, polycarbonate, SMC, and fiberglass resins are a bit more of a challenge. Welding does NOT mean glued with solvent adhesives or bonded with epoxy, but welded with hot filler rod. Thermostetting plastics are usually best repaired with solvent cements or adhesives. Expanded vinyl cannot be welded very easily, and in the thin sections that are used to cover the dash, it would be nearly impossible. Those areas would be better bonded with a colored filler material and matched to the appearance grain of the covering (the professional repair).
If you have any other questions about how to truly weld plastic, check with your local industrial sheet metal fabrication shop. They routinely weld large sections of plastics, including many of those that aren't easily welded, like vinyls and polycarbonates. They would likely be happy to advise you about the type of filler and procedures to use to weld plastic, as long as you don't plan on taking over their business or competing.
If they aren't cooperative, check here:
http://www.urethanesupply.com/howtorepair.html
BTW - Did you get an air compressor and regulator with that "complete" welding kit?
I'm not sure of what kind of "ground effects" parts anyone might be asking about, but some of the factory lower body trim pieces (the ones that look pretty) are usually urethane on older cars, and TEO on newer cars The actual ground effect pieces (the black ones under the front and sides of the car) are PVC or ABS.
PVC, CPVC, TEO, polypropylene, nylon, polyethylene, and ABS can be welded easily. Styrene, GRP, polycarbonate, SMC, and fiberglass resins are a bit more of a challenge. Welding does NOT mean glued with solvent adhesives or bonded with epoxy, but welded with hot filler rod. Thermostetting plastics are usually best repaired with solvent cements or adhesives. Expanded vinyl cannot be welded very easily, and in the thin sections that are used to cover the dash, it would be nearly impossible. Those areas would be better bonded with a colored filler material and matched to the appearance grain of the covering (the professional repair).
If you have any other questions about how to truly weld plastic, check with your local industrial sheet metal fabrication shop. They routinely weld large sections of plastics, including many of those that aren't easily welded, like vinyls and polycarbonates. They would likely be happy to advise you about the type of filler and procedures to use to weld plastic, as long as you don't plan on taking over their business or competing.
If they aren't cooperative, check here:
http://www.urethanesupply.com/howtorepair.html
BTW - Did you get an air compressor and regulator with that "complete" welding kit?
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 1
From: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
The section of my dash that is cracked is definately plastic. I think the only part that is vinyl is the dashpad itself. That's not cracked thankfully. My center vent is cracked and I'm almost cartain it's ABS plastic. I won't be fixing it until this winter when I replace the seat covers, carpeting, and headlinder anyway. I'm planning on painting the dash and console at this time too. I can't wait!
Now if I could just get my engine back together and running before the end of the month I'd be thrilled.
Now if I could just get my engine back together and running before the end of the month I'd be thrilled.
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z / 1992 Corvette
Engine: 305 TPI / LT1
Transmission: 700R4
My boyfriend plastic welded my front ground effect. I bought it off ebay, the end piece that bolts just infront of the wheel well was missing (looked like it was cut off!). So he cut a piece off a bumper and welded it on.
If you want I'll take a picture & post it, so you can see. I haven't had time to get it painted yet.
On the cracks on the 1/4 pieces & rocker panels, I used 2 part epoxy. It's sandable & works great. Got the idea from a thread on this board.
Good Luck!
If you want I'll take a picture & post it, so you can see. I haven't had time to get it painted yet.
On the cracks on the 1/4 pieces & rocker panels, I used 2 part epoxy. It's sandable & works great. Got the idea from a thread on this board.
Good Luck!
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
aiight, the paint guys said the SEM Rigid TPO Repair Material should work just fine for shaving of the Z28 area right behind the front wheels on the GFX.
I'll post up when I get it started/finished
Only thing is, it will be covering up some screws, so once I do this, the only way to take the GFX off is to rip it off, or some how cut the other side of the screw from the underside of the car. :-\ maybe this isn't a good idea
I'll post up when I get it started/finished
Only thing is, it will be covering up some screws, so once I do this, the only way to take the GFX off is to rip it off, or some how cut the other side of the screw from the underside of the car. :-\ maybe this isn't a good idea
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MrPackstin
Interior Parts for Sale
11
Oct 25, 2017 08:09 PM
no green
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
11
Jan 9, 2016 09:22 PM









