I own a 1991 Camaro Z28 and the driver's side door is not closing as good as it used to and when I open the door half-way I can lift up and down. Before, there was no up and down movement and the door could be shut easily. I also noticed that the door's upper hinges are wearing out because it has scratched up the left side scoop located just below the door- it extends from the rear of the fender to first part of the rear qrtr panel. Ok, has any one installed this aftermarket upper door hinge replacement kit by 3rd gensolutions.com? According to this theory this replaces the need to tear out the upper door hinge and drill on the door panel to install three new bolts. Instead, I remove the upper door hinge bushing rivets with dremel tool or drill and replace it with these new spherical bushings and cures the door sag problem and supposedly saves me time on door realignment. By the way this product is sold through Classic Industries and Top Down Solutions(in your above sponsored websites). Your response is greatly appreciated.

 

Yes, I have used them. My drivers door wasn't operating as it should. I saw AndyZ28's web site and ordered them (after some long conversations on the phone). Bear in mind I am in the UK and didn't want to send them back.
My conclusions? Order them. Solved all my problems in one go.
Well worth the money.
Go for it.

Andy.

 

same problem here installed the kit works great only hard part is the door spring. Go for it.

Jeff

 

i have the same problem, everyone has told me i have to rip off the hing & all, reading this, maybe i'll say screw them, and spend some money & try it myself... thanks for making this post steve. & thx for responding guys, solved two ppls' problems.

Now, just one question, about how long does it take to do it? & how hard is it to do...?

 

I used the hinge kit to replace a rotted door- I didn't want to remove the fender to get at the bolts and the bushings were shot anyway. It took about 3 hours total to get the old door off and the new one on. I recommend using a sling and an engine hoist to help hold the door. Also, there is a tool for removing the bottom hinge pin if you are changing that one too. That was the toughest one for me to get out. The top ones were easy to grind out with a Dremel.

 

I was doing some repair work with the fender off, so it was easy to get to the bolts and the dreaded lower spring. So perhaps I am not the one to answer your question.

Andy.

 

i did one with fender off since i was replacing it and it made it very easy i did one with the fender on and it took about 3 hours to cut and gring the old top pin off with a dremel tool. i also used the extension peice for the dremel which defitanly makes the job easier. i used the cut off wheels and cut all the lips or tap off the top pin and then beat the old pin out. its a 1/2 day job total follwo the direction with the kit to the t and it will go fine.

Jeff

 

can anyone help me with getting the bottom pin out? Its stuck, realy stuck. Hammered a chisle under the head of it and nothing, just digs in the actual; hinge on the door side. Cand hammer it from the bottom, no room to swing. and its not that little spring clip thing cuz i took that off, this pin doesnt move at all.

thanks for any help

 

What I believe is happening is; that the small "step" that the area of the pin that the small spring clip occupied has become lodged in the hinge. If you can have someone lift the rear of the door and remove stress from the hinge, the pin should be fairly easy to remove by hand.

I hope this helps.

 

No no. I realize that little step is there but this pin is not movable at all. nothing. it wont even spin with vise grips on it iv tried everything. no movement whatsoever. I thing there could be a step or groove worn into it from the hinge since it spins in the hinge hole that is preventing it from "simply sliding out" like some people have told me. haha thanks though

 

i am going to order this kit to, i notice the bottom corner hitting my gfx and leaveing crapes + its more heavy then driver door. is the door heavy? should i have another person help me?? oh and weres this site to get them from???

 

i am going to order this kit to, i notice the bottom corner hitting my gfx and leaveing crapes + its more heavy then driver door. is the door heavy? should i have another person help me?? oh and weres this site to get them from???

 

kit works great

but I'd recommed pulling the door off , it's only 6 bolts and it makes the job SO much easier , with two people reinstallation isn't hard either and not like you have to line the door up , it just bolts right back in

 

http://www.andyz28.com/3rdGen/

 

I have the door sag problem, but when i lift the door, it doesn't move. so why is my door hard to close???? if the bushings are worn it should move right?

 

Check the striker on the door jamb.It might not be aligned properly,thus making your dooor hard to close.The striker can be loosened w/a # 40 or 45 tork socket.

 

Might be a little late but what i did was get some PB blaster and soaked it down and let it sit. I also used a jack to help raise the door when I needed. then just clamped some vice grips hear the middle of the pin and hit it with the hammer. Its harder to get the pins out if the bushings are still good. On my 84 it was a pain but on my 83 I could practically take the pins out with my hands

 

Yea thanks, my uncle is good with this stuff, but never really has time, but he told me about pb blaster too. imm gonna go that. He has a big old milling machine in his garage that he machined a slot in one piece of square stock, and another solid square stock, drilling though one and drilling/tapping the other with a bolt that pulls them together. the slot goes on top of the hinge with the pin in the slot, and the bottom piece goes under the pin, pressing it out.. crazy as it sounds, that didnt work yet, it moved the pin 1/16" up if anything.