gumby asked the question why i did not sand to bare metal...

got me thinking should i? seems to be at a point where the paint is holding factory primer and paint, all the others are off and gone. will the current spottyness matter when i epoxy and 2k prime?

Jeff

 

No, you definitely don't need to go to bare steel. Unless there is some underlying factor, (peeling, rust or bodywork, for instance) the factory finish under your prime and paint will be just fine.
Just remember to prep the old finish completely... (ie; completely sanded
Absolutely NO shiny paint under your primer.
Looks like you got a good start.

PRIME AND BLOCK, PRIME AND block, PRIME and block, prime and block, prime...

 

Reason I ask is cause I am my self right now redoing my car slowly and have found more rust under "good paint" than I did sticking out of the paint. Rust runs n spreads real easy under good paint.

At first I started just fixing each spot but once going I really found more rust under good paint than I did busting through.

Aircraft stripper makes it super easy. $8 quart $20 a gallon at autozone. The paint will just jump off the car. takes 30-45 sec n the paint will curl up n fall off.

You also seamed to spend some loot on good paint n ****. You never know what is under that "good paint" until you look. I have looked under mine and was shocked. So now I am striping each part of the car to bare metal as I go. Though the chemical stripper makes it super easy to go that far with little work.

 

I stripped down another fender and low and behold exactly what I was talking about. My front fenders had good clean paint. Just some rust on the fender well lip. After stripping all the paint off I found these 3 spots. There were no sign of the rust from out side the paint. I would of never seen it if I did not goto bare metal.

Though I have no idea the history of your car. mine has the same 18 year old factory paint.

 

Yes this can happen, ordinarily I'd say because of a repaint somewhere down the line, but it can happen under an OEM finish as well.
I'd be relatively sure that (depending on the year and paint used), even aircraft stripper would have a hard time getting to bare steel.
I've found that it doesn't pop as well on a fully cured OEM finish. It does, however, a fantastic job popping an aftermarket paintjob off the metal

 

super,

what you see on my car is just oem stuff left. the car did have from what i could tell maybe 2 additional coats of paint. it was quite thick and the top coats sanded real easy. imagin i could tell a diffrence sanding aftermarket paint vs oem.

i am close to ready to prim, at least i think i am. should i sand some more to get rid of the last rmenants of blue? it seems to be stuck well no flaking or chips ect.

yes and block prim block ect bah that will take a week by itself.

oh new front rubber covers buldong adhesion promoter before primer right. does it matter if it is in aerosol can?

Jeff

 

You can use adhesion promoter if you like, mainly, make sure it's very clean (soap and water 1st then a plastic parts cleaner before paint.) You definitely want to use a true resin flex additive though, most companies (Like PPG,) don't offer a true flex additive, just a retarder that slows drying times for assembly. If you're gonna do the job, spend the extra cash n a high quality paint.
Yeah, it looks pretty good from the photos, but feel every square inch of the surface of the car with the flat of your hand. (If you're inexperienced in feeling for imperfections, it may help to use a shop towel between our hand and the surface.) Feel for low spots or dimples and bullseyes, the more you take out at this stage, the less work you have in the block sanding stage.

 

kevin, thanks, i ordered house of kolor 3 stage paint for it. cobalt candy

i asked for adhesion promoter for the front and rear plastics they said didn;t need it with the base primer sealer they were sending. hmmm we;ll see when it gets here. i was going to go without flex additive as most i read said didn;t need it if parts are mounted before paint which mine are.

oh ya and the gfx are going to be platnum.

Jeff

 

heres another progress pic more of the front end

 

True, that protects you from you, but what about all those other idiots out there that don't care about your car, and the untold shopping carts that bounce off your bumpers? It'll look great either way, but a TRUE resin flex agent will prevent those spider cracks up to a certain ammount of damage. (obviously if the impact is hard enough to damage the bumper then the paint won't be safe.)

 

i decided to do some more sanding today since i have no paint anyway. I finished attaching the nose and rear bumber, removed the windsheild trim, and sanded the car down once again.

I think it seems better now, like it wants to be primered. I did manage to find a couple little rust spots surface type spots ground them out and the rest of the body looks very good. Oh and i found about 3 low spots the size of a dimple, Sanding further allowed them to show up before priming.

Jeff

 

one more of the windshield area without the trim in it, and yes it broke in like 3 places oh so brittle.

Jeff

oh and that air freshner is the only part of the car i have not touched yet.