Well this is my first time with any type of body work and i have 2 rust spots that are in need of being sanded down and painted again. However i dont know what grit to use or where to get it. after i sand it im supposed to primer it and then paint? where would i get the primer and paint also. if im right in my thinking let me know, if not please help me out, lol. thanks all!

 

Make sure you acid etch the bare metal or use self-etching primer, otherwise the rust will bubble up again.

 

ok but where do i get all of this stuff?

 

home depot BEHR concrete etch n rust removed. Very strong acid. Even diluted 50% it works well. It will also burn you good and bleach any clothing you get it on. Its rather neat. I have used a whole gallon spraying everything with rust on it. The stuff just destroys rust with a vengeance.

 

Sorry Gumby,
Usually your advice is spot on, but I have to disagree on this one...
You definitely need to use an automotive product,(not something made for concrete, or building products)
Sandblast the entire area that is damaged.
Determine if you need to replace or patch the panel. (If any holes)
clean and etch, (with a two part self-etching primer)
use a primmer filler to block

 

Just cause it labeled that way means nothing. Its the same thing you will buy labeled for automotive but for twice as much. its the same acid. That is so small minded to assume so much when you have never even used it. Never judge a book by it cover.

I use to buy prep n paint for $15 a quart. Then I found out in another forum its the same product under a different label. As I wanted to keep part of my car n bare metal out side for days on end. Its is the same crap/acid but only $13 a gallon.

I have and still right now parts of my car are in bare metal out side in the rain and rust free due to that wonderful stuff.

instead of a rust orange it is a nice steel gray.

 

Whoa, Whoa, WHOA..
I really don't think this is cause for a personal attack!!!
And I'd like you to show me that the acid etch is the same product used in an automotive application!!!!!!
I Used to paint, and use these products everyday, for a living, and am now a manager of a high production body shop. I think my credentials speak for themselves.
As an ex-painter, and now, overseer of a shop, I need to be sure that everything that is done is done correctly.
Now If you choose to use this product, and save a few bucks, that's great. If a shop skimped on YOUR materials, to save them a few bucks, You'd be IRATE!!!!! The first one to bitch in a few years about their paintjob coming apart, is usually the guy that wanted to SAVE some money.
These products are very tempermental as it is, the slightest change in temperature or humidity, or a foreign chemical, can greatly change how any given job goes. It can turn a show job into a pile of sh*t, in no time!!!! Mix ratios, prep work, and even staying wintin the same paint line are crucial to a job's outcome!!!!
Why would you take a chance and use something that isn't intended to refinish a vehicle? only to have a nice paint job come flying off in a a few years, or worse, a few months

 

...

 

I agree that using the proper "compatable" chemicals is crucial to paint longevity. Its very easy to get a paint job to look great for a year. But try and do one that looks as good in five years as the day you painted it. There is only one way and that is to use all the products from pre cleaners to top coats that are from one brand or at least that your supplier will guarantee is safe. In the end what are you saving by using no name? At most on all the little things like this that you could cheap out on you may be able to save a hundred bucks. Not worth the gamble when you consider the time and the fact that if you use something bogus you will only have to do it again which is no fun and not cheap.

The acid etch is ghetto anyway IMO. Sandblast is the only way to ensure the rust is gone.

 

i dont have a sandblast machine or anything. i dont need to replace any panels or patch its just surface rust maybe 1 cm thick. i just want to sand it primer it and paint it. where can i get the materials?

 

Definitely grind the scabs up to good steel, if there's any pits of rust left over, you really should sandblast.
Maybe a local tool rental will rent a small hand sandblaster?
All the maerials you need should be avilable at your local auto parts that sells paint.

 

Its so much the exactly the same product that I seriously considered re-labeling it for sale myself. And of course it should not be uses alone. You gotta sand blast or sand the metal well some how. Even a wire brush on a drill will help but after that the metal will want to rust with in seconds. And that is where the acid etch comes into play. It will stop new rust from forming and kill any left behind.

And I am sorry if it offends you but it is small minded to pre judge a product by it label with out first hand knowledge of said product. 100s upon 100s of products are sold under different labels but are in fact the same thing. Finding out how and which ones are used can save you a few bucks.

 

And I challenge you to do the same...
I stand by my other post, It is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that they are the same product...
Does the Behr product, require an activator? Does it specifically say for automotive uses?
Has it been saline tested for countless hours for maximum holdout?
Will it accept an automotive fill and sand primer? OR will you use a home wood primer and top with a latex or oil-based enamel with a brush or roller?

 

You can buy a very low cost siphon sand blaster for about $15.00 Worth looking into or you will only have rust form again in a few months.

 

My first choise would be to sandblast if thats not possible then I would use a rust converer like SEM thats used for a car because they dont recommend washing afterwards then just sand with 180 grit and prime