I painted most of my panels with Black Krylon today. And I was wondering, from all the people who have done the same, how long I should wait until I put them back in. I am going to let them sit for 24 hours, but should I wait the full week to put them back in? I don't want them to scratch.
If this question has been asked and answered already, I haven't seen it. Just point me to the thread. Thanks
If this question has been asked and answered already, I haven't seen it. Just point me to the thread. Thanks
Supreme Member
i would wait at least 24, just give em a touch tomorrow and see how thay feel. i have used fusion on my lights and reassembled in a couple hours, but they are ridgid not flexable like the interior plastice.
so how did it come out, did the fusion paint bond good? what color were they or just a fresh n up.
Jeff
so how did it come out, did the fusion paint bond good? what color were they or just a fresh n up.
Jeff
I went from grey to black. They look good, and are completely dry, but I tried a scratch test about 5 hours after they were painted. Scratched right off. They will definately look better than they did. It says on the can it will be scratch/chip resistant within 7 days. I'll probably try to put them back on tomorrow. Very carefully.
Supreme Member
i did the samthing. i waited till the next day but put it in very careful. i tried the clear coat and i didnt like it at all. it leaves like a dust look when you touch it. but mine is holding up very good for about 2 months. makes it look very glossy and new!!!
:lala:
:lala:How many cans did it take to finish yours? I used two and got most of it done, but I bought two more. Did you recoat after 7 days?
Senior Member
i did mine took a total process of 5 hours removing cleaning painting putting back in. it took me 3 cans and i hadda use some regular black spray paint to finsh one of the kick pannels. and after i finshed i noticed i forgot the peice that goes up with the hatch still havent done it
but i stuck them right in after about a minimum of drying for a hour to a maximum of 3 hours it varied when i stuck em back in
i need new carpet and speaker covers
but i stuck them right in after about a minimum of drying for a hour to a maximum of 3 hours it varied when i stuck em back in i need new carpet and speaker covers
Supreme Member
if this car is not your daily driver, go ahead and leave them out for a week or so.
Senior Member
and if it is your daily driver, leave them out for a week, noting like driving around in "drag race" mode w/ all you stuff pulled out LOL
Supreme Member
Token
Supreme Member
close
- Join DateMay 2003
- LocationToledo, OH
- Posts:1,995
- iTrader Positive Feedback0
- iTrader Feedback Score(0)
- Car1992 Firebird
- Engineforged 357
- Transmission700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
- Axle/Gearsstock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
- Likes:0
- Liked:0 Times in 0 Posts
Krylon Fusion absolutely sucks on arm rests and any types of things use with your hands. I ruined a shirt because that crap will break down with the oils in your hand and turn into a big sticky mess. Seriously one of the worst things I ever did to my car was put Krylon Fusion on it. I do not recommend this product to anyone. It does not bond to the plastic, no matter how much you prep it. It wipes right off with the slighest bit of gasoline, too.


Senior Member
^^^^
maybe you just got krylon by accident ?
or didnt clean the surface with amonia mine stick great
maybe you just got krylon by accident ?
or didnt clean the surface with amonia mine stick great
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by Token
Krylon Fusion absolutely sucks on arm rests and any types of things use with your hands. I ruined a shirt because that crap will break down with the oils in your hand and turn into a big sticky mess. Seriously one of the worst things I ever did to my car was put Krylon Fusion on it. I do not recommend this product to anyone. It does not bond to the plastic, no matter how much you prep it. It wipes right off with the slighest bit of gasoline, too.
I would like to Point out that this is your opinion. I took out all Hard Plastic Interior, that was originally Gray and cleaned with Acetone and sprayed 3 Light coats 5min apart untill full coverage. Let them sit for a week, and I actually Scratche a kick panel With a Screw driver and it Was black underneath. Originally posted by Token
Krylon Fusion absolutely sucks on arm rests and any types of things use with your hands. I ruined a shirt because that crap will break down with the oils in your hand and turn into a big sticky mess. Seriously one of the worst things I ever did to my car was put Krylon Fusion on it. I do not recommend this product to anyone. It does not bond to the plastic, no matter how much you prep it. It wipes right off with the slighest bit of gasoline, too.
You may of had a bad experiance on arm Rests, but isn't isn't designed for For that type of metrial. Also You need to Prep it Correctly and let it Cure like it says and there wont be any problems.
Well I put all the panels back in. It looks better than it did before I painted. The only problem I have with the paint is that it is really glossy in some areas, and not glossy enough in others. This is probably a user error. But even so, it looks alot better than before. It does still scratch off, but it has only been on for a day. I will not mess with it for a full week, and then give it a scratch test.
Member
I did everything in my beretta with red engine enamel...It all looks great....The only prep i did was wipe all the dust off the plastic with a wet rag and the paint doesn't rub off or chip at all....I had to do a few coats to get it to look smooth but i'm satisfied with it....maybe its more durable than Fusion?
Senior Member
In response to the dude with the issues about the armrests. I actually painted mine with Fusion as well, and sure enough, the same results. It would just slide/peel/rub right off. I do not know if it was due to poor prep, the oils in skin, or the fact that I didn't allow it to cure since it was painted outside in the middle of winter with temps reaching a high of maybe 50 degrees outside.
However, I also painted my radio trim pieces and shifter plate in the same manner, middle of winter, only rubbing alcohol to clean, and it held up absolutely great. Didn't peel (even during 100+ degree temps in Fl.)didn't scratch, didn't fade, and held up really well. I'd recommend it for hard plastics anyday, but vinyls are a different story. Just my experience thus far. I do plan on redoing the interior of my Z with black fusion since the crappy grey/bluish panels look like crap anyways.
However, I also painted my radio trim pieces and shifter plate in the same manner, middle of winter, only rubbing alcohol to clean, and it held up absolutely great. Didn't peel (even during 100+ degree temps in Fl.)didn't scratch, didn't fade, and held up really well. I'd recommend it for hard plastics anyday, but vinyls are a different story. Just my experience thus far. I do plan on redoing the interior of my Z with black fusion since the crappy grey/bluish panels look like crap anyways.
Supreme Member
FireDemonSiC
Supreme Member
close
Before anyone says so, I am aware that I am digging up a REALLY old thread.
I am making this post so anyone stumbling across it like I did will get the CORRECT information.
Krylon Fusion is an awesome product, when used correctly and properly. I am using it to restore all my interior plastic pieces and It's worked great. I've used it on my console, door trim pieces, interior panels and just about any other plastic pieces you can think of. The way I prep is to rinse all pieces off with warm/hot water, then mix up some tri-sodium phosphate, soak a fine steel wool pad with it and scrub every square inch that is to be painted with moderate pressure. I then thoroughly dry the piece, then hang it outside and get to work. You apply the paint just as you would any other paint. And just as any other type of paint, you can royally screw it up if you don't apply it right.
You also need to be sure you are using it for the correct application. PLASTIC ONLY! There is a reason it states, "Bonds to plastic", on the can. Things like armrests, which are made of vinyl are a no-no. It holds up 'OK' on metal, but that is still not what It's intended use was for. It is also intended to be sprayed DIRECTLY onto the plastic without primer. Some people have experimented with fusion and adhesion promoter, but not me personally. For Vinyl I use VHT vinyl dye and for metals I use VHT chassis and rollbar paint.
After the item is sprayed, I allow it to cure for a MINIMUM one week undisturbed, but usually shoot for two or three weeks. If you attempt a scratch test or try to reinstall after only a day or two, I guarantee it is going to chip/scratch and your going to be right back on here talking about how much of a crappy product it is. All the pieces I have re-conditioned in this manner are holding up great. It does not chip, scratch (Even if I drag my nails across it with enough force to break them) or smudge/peel.
There are only two areas I would not recommend it for and that would be the kick panels and sail panels. The extreme friction/abrasion from the rubber soles of your shoes seems to make quick work of it.
It is a great product, if you use it correctly.
I am making this post so anyone stumbling across it like I did will get the CORRECT information.
Krylon Fusion is an awesome product, when used correctly and properly. I am using it to restore all my interior plastic pieces and It's worked great. I've used it on my console, door trim pieces, interior panels and just about any other plastic pieces you can think of. The way I prep is to rinse all pieces off with warm/hot water, then mix up some tri-sodium phosphate, soak a fine steel wool pad with it and scrub every square inch that is to be painted with moderate pressure. I then thoroughly dry the piece, then hang it outside and get to work. You apply the paint just as you would any other paint. And just as any other type of paint, you can royally screw it up if you don't apply it right.
You also need to be sure you are using it for the correct application. PLASTIC ONLY! There is a reason it states, "Bonds to plastic", on the can. Things like armrests, which are made of vinyl are a no-no. It holds up 'OK' on metal, but that is still not what It's intended use was for. It is also intended to be sprayed DIRECTLY onto the plastic without primer. Some people have experimented with fusion and adhesion promoter, but not me personally. For Vinyl I use VHT vinyl dye and for metals I use VHT chassis and rollbar paint.
After the item is sprayed, I allow it to cure for a MINIMUM one week undisturbed, but usually shoot for two or three weeks. If you attempt a scratch test or try to reinstall after only a day or two, I guarantee it is going to chip/scratch and your going to be right back on here talking about how much of a crappy product it is. All the pieces I have re-conditioned in this manner are holding up great. It does not chip, scratch (Even if I drag my nails across it with enough force to break them) or smudge/peel.
There are only two areas I would not recommend it for and that would be the kick panels and sail panels. The extreme friction/abrasion from the rubber soles of your shoes seems to make quick work of it.
It is a great product, if you use it correctly.
Senior Member
92z28camarokid
Senior Member
close
So what would u recommend to use for the kick panels and sail panels?
