Questions on the 2 different caulk like sealers GM used to seal the floor pan to surrounding body.

One, (circled in green) appears to be brushed on. Its like a black rubbery caulk type crap that likes to peal off with the slightest of touch. Whats it called? I need a replacement that will actually stick.

And two, right where the floorpan meets the door area, there is a different type of caulk type stuff thats white and slightly tacky but much harder than that other crap. Its only used the length of the door opening. Again what is this crap and where can I get it?

 

oops forgot pic

 

Go to your local auto parts/paint store, tell them you want a good urethane based caulk... 3m should make one that can be used in an ordinary caulk gun. We use an air operated caulk gun that has cartridges... not something for the every day joe, unless you want to buy a 100.00 gun. Urethane will bond very well, but remain flexible and not crack and break up like the OEM stuff did.

Make sure you clean and epoxy or acid etch all the seams you are re doing FIRST, then let that flash and Then caulk

 

I was searchin around last night after I posted and found that this stuff is called seam sealer. Is that the same urethane caulk stuff your talking about?

Will that stuff your talikng about work to replace both types of seam sealer that was used on my car originally? One appeared to be black and rubbery and brushed on (ex. like the stuff in the pic I posted)while the other stuff that ran the length of the door was white/tan and harder and appeard to be put on with a caulk gun.

They all appear like you said to need to be put on over a primered or epoxied metal. Can I apply it over POR-15 instead of primer? Will the caulk bond to the POR-15 fine?


Here are two seam sealers I found from the 3m website, I don't think there urethane based like you said Kevin, but appear to duplicate the 2 factory sealersIm replacing. Would I be Good with these 2????


PDF files

1) this one to take the place of the factory black rubbery brushed on sealer
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...aaBCVXMXDbSA6-



2) To take the place of the white harder sealer that run the length of the door opening
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...jjjHrrVeMk0cN-


the rest of the 3m caulk like sealers
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html

 

Yes, they are seam sealers or "caulks" same idea. I used "layman's terms" so as not to confuse anyone...apparently it didn't work, sorry.
Pretty much anything 3M automotive will work great, but , as with any manufacturer you get what you pay for. They do make some bottom of the line stuff that will get the job done but will not last.
They do have top of the line stuff that is two part epoxy but gets a little pricey, middle of the road should be fine.
You can get a brushable, (kinda messy) if you want that look, or you can caulk it in with a tube and brush it out. (I prefer this, less mess and I can still push it into the seam.)
I would be a little skeptical about POR15's adhesion, only because I have read in other posts about getting topcoats to stick.
Use a good epoxy or acid etch after all rust is removed, seam seal, you should then be able to coat with por 15 for durability.
I really wouldn't bother with worrying about whether or not they match up to factory, there's a reason they are crumbling and or peeling in the first place and causing you to replace them. Kinda old technology, y'know?these will work fine

 

all right cool. Would this one be allright then? http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/media...kjjjHrrVeMk0cN- Thanks.

edit
links not working but if you can go here http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/...ler/output_html and click on the 3M™ Ultrapro™ Autobody Sealant and tell me if that one would a good sealer to use for all the seams. c


cool just saw you updated your post while i was typing and answered my quesion Thanks

 

your page wouldn't load
try these

 

Could you recommend a good epoxy or acid etch? I know nothing about either.

 

All of your paint companies will sell an etch or epoxy primer.
PPG's DP epoxies are very good, come in a variety of colors, with excellent holdout and would probably even eliminate the need for POR 15.
We use standox.
Just remember to protect yourself when spraying these products.
THey are all dangerous!!

 

Im assuming you mean spray it on with a gun. Problem is, I don't have a gun and planned on putting on everthing with a brush. Can the epoxies you mentioned be brushed on too? Or do they or anyother good epoxies come in a spray can?

 

You can pick one up fairly cheap, or maybe a friend has one you can use?
Spraying would be ideal, I suppose they could be brushed on , never really thought about it...
Standox has a 1K etch in a spraybomb, I would imagine other paint lines do too... I really don't like them though, they're kind expensive and I'm a little too old school, and believe that the only way to really protect is with a 2K product. My guys use them every day and Standox offers the product as part of our warranty.