Well I gotta come straight I bought a camaro for too much money and I got a bad deal. Right know as i write this my car is sitting in a shop having all the break lines and all the fuel lines not to mention the rear brakes done. All that just two weeks after the purchase of the car. Then when I get it back I have to replace the driverside floor pan. I know my way around a car but I need to know how to weld. I need a mig welder right? well what kind of mig welder do I need and whats the minimum as far as output. I just want to weld 20 or 22 guage steel. Can I teach myself how to mig weld relatively easily? I better be able to. I learned how to ark weld in about a day. I need help.

 

Anybody, whats up? Did I not ask the right question?

 

Welding is a skill -- like driving, throwing knives, programming, etc. It may only take a day to learn -- but it will take the better part of a lifetime to master. Your level of skill will be reflected in your work. With that being said -- you dont need a very powerful welder at all to weld 20 gauge. In fact you should be more worried about burning through the floorpan.

When all is said and done your looking at about $400 and up for a complete welder, shielding gas, electrode, helmet, etc . . . why not just look in your phone book for a mobile professional who'll do it all for about $60/hr ?

If your looking for a recommendation I recently purchased the Millermatic 175 and its handled every job so far with ease (sub frame connectors, roll cage, o2 sensor bung).

 

Thank you, and I meant no disrespect to the art of welding but I gotta start somewhere right? And I was thinking about hiring a mobile pro to come out but I didn't know if that was prudent or cost effective. Does your miller use gas? Did you pay 400 for your set up?

 

yea, . . . every journey starts with that first step.
a pro is just that -- a pro. He / she / they won't burn through your floorboards, will use the best process for the job, will leave your floorboards nice looking and make welds that surpass x-ray tests. You will save money, and time and frustration.


heres a link to the one I got http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...llermatic_175/
-- yes, it uses an external shielding gas. It can also do FCAW. My setup ended up closer to 1200 -- but you will most likely still need to purchase shielding gas, welding gloves, helmet, jacket, anti-spatter nozzle spray, x-tra contact tips, electrode, vise grips, Mig pliers, and then the learning starts. Don't kid yourself -- its quite an investment.

-- oh yea, you might have more responses if you posted this in the fabrication forum instead. . . maybe a mod will move it.

 

Darn right it is thats why I chimed in. It think I will call a mobile pro. So I should do all the prep work (cut out old floor pan pound in new on) and just let a pro lay the bead or let him or her get more involved? I plan on cuting the old one copmletely out except maybe around subframe welds. Oops forgot about the Fabrication thread

 

Talk to your guy about that -- they'll tell ya straight up. He might only want to do the welding, but thats almost a sure sign you should not hire him.
A good welder will want to make sure there is nothing that could potentially catch fire (carpet, oils), that the area is nice and clean -- all scale and rust should be tended to. That the fitup of the new piece is very close, that the metal is similar in composition, that the edges are well dressed, etc.
You are a paying client and have every reason to expect they will answer all of your questions and if your okay with doing the prep yourself, all the better to save money.

 

Good, the more I think about this the more I like it. If I preped it good; meaning no rust or galvanized steel surfaces complete removal of interior and total underside check for oil and fuel and prepreped replacement pan did I miss anything? Probably. How long, how much, rough ball park, thanks for the help.