I'm in the middle of replacing my weatherstripping. First question: does anyone have the part numbers for the rails that run along the front and back side of the door windows that hold the weatherstripping? Mine are rusting and need replacement, and unfortunately don't come with the t-top kit. I need these for both sides, so I'm assuming there are 4 different part numbers. In the picture below, the front driverside rail is the tan piece on the left, for reference.

And my second question: can someone use Paint or Photoshop on this picture to show me where exactly the 3M strip caulking has to be placed?

 

...Where to place the caulking on the rear is much more confusing to me. I somewhat have an idea of where it should go on the front, but I definitely can't picture where it goes here. If someone could modify this picture to show where the strip caulk goes, as well, I'd really appreciate it.

 

ok i'll try this a second time web is slow tonight.

this is how i did mine.

get a angle die grinder and 3m roloc wheels for cleaning the seal area it will save you a ton of time. you could also use a wire wheel on a drill or dremel that also works i did it both ways.

so here is the pic let me know if you have any other questions. maybe someone has some other tips to add also.

jeff

 

I'm wondering how exactly the 3M caulk is applied between the rails. The picture on the directions with the weatherstrip is hard to decipher... all it says is use an L-shaped strip to connect the rails, but I can't see logically how it would go in.

 

Evening CaysE,

You have E-mail and I will have those part numbers for you tomorrow.

 

You rule. :hail:

 

yes he does lol :hail: Trickster has saved my *** many many times as well as everyone else

YOU RULE DUDE

 

send em' to me 2 TRICK, thanks:hail:

 

casye

no strip caulk in rail area, use a adhesive in there, there are a few types out there, black or yellow is most often used. its called weather strip adhesive comes in a tube. the strip caulk is the harder rubber stuff that is sticky but not for that use. the strip caulk is for the space in between the top rail and the side rail. i also used it on any part attachend to the body to prvent rattles like the gfx and spoiler dor handles and stuff like that.

jeff

 

reread your post i think i know what you mean. i took the 3m caulk and rolled it into a ball and pressed it in to where it fit best. i did this after the weather strip install, just enough to hold it all in a good line with the angle of the corner.

jeff

 

Evening CaysE,
I have the part number info with illustrations that you have requested and will post it for you tomorrow after I fix a technical difficulty with the scanner. Nothing that a VBFH won't fix.

 

Those BFHs get bigger every time.

 

Can anyone track down these part numbers? They are the retainer rails for the weatherstripping around the door windows.

10198265 - driver front
10198264 - pass front
10064506 - pass rear
10064507 - driver rear

 

I went through this wonderful ordeal when i rebuilt my car. I would suggest that you remove the "T" bar and reseal that too while your at it, make sure to seal around all the screw holes. Sometime after i replaced my weatherstripping my car developed a BAD leak. It was pouring one morning and i ran to my car and sat in a mess. That head liner can absorb a lot of water! as well as the seats and carpet. Turned out 1 screw in the t-bar was leaking.

on a side note i still get small leaks from the front outer edge where the t top meets the pillar (both tops), can't seem to figure out why, and i have small gaps at the top rear corner of both windows that i can't close.

 

I have a new t-bar here and will be sure to seal up the screws... thanks for the tip. Water usually leaks into the corners where the t-top meets the pillar by leaking under the weatherstripping somewhere up top and running along the retainer, leaking out where it ends by the door window. To be honest, it sounds like you don't have a complete bead of weatherstripping adhesive around the top and water is getting to the retainers.

 

could be, i'll have to give it a better look, i'm not driving it much anymore so the problem has lost it's urgency.

 

Morning CaysE,

If you are interested, go to the two websites listed below. I think you will be especially interested in the second one since they do offer the weatherstripping with the metal pieces. It did not specify which metal pieces but I believe there is phone number that you can call.

http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_main_new.htm

http://gm-restorationparts.com/ewopg/OPGSITES/entry.asp


:lala:

 

also make sure that you put a good bead of sealer between the new seal and the t-bar in the center.Water always leaks down between the seal and the t-bar and runs down underneath the seal and WILL find somewhere to get in.Don't try to do it after the seal is in it won't work.Put one bead on the new seal and another on the t-bar where they meet and make sure you press them together as you put the new seal on.also make sure you put plastic saran wrap or something under the t-top as you put it on the first time after you put the new seals on,otherwise sealer or glue will leak out somewhere and glue your t-tops to your new seals and you will rip them up the first time you take them off.sealer can't stick to saran wrap for some reason.good luck and read all the tech tips...lots of invaluable info there.

 

Well, I finished the weatherstripping last night after a friend and I did a ton of prepping the night before (we kept the original rails and just cleaned them up). I was definitely in a rush, as anyone in the Northeast knows, it has been raining all day today. I feel like I somewhat half-assed the caulking and sealing job... it could've been a lot better... but the interior has been dry all day. I doubt the sealant had enough time to dry, but hopefully that won't be a problem. It had about 8 or 9 hours before the rain came.

All in all, I'm thrilled that the interior is dry after dealing with leaking rainwater for close to two years. But I'm beginning to learn a valuable lesson: working on and/or modifying a daily driver is too much hassle for me. For big jobs, anyway. I really feel like I should've spent more time prepping like JeffW did, and taking the time to really get the strip caulk in all the places it should've been. Unfortunately, i ended up using the weatherstrip adhesive as a "quick filler" in small nooks and crannies where I know the caulk should have gone. But I just plain didn't have the option to spend time. The t-tops still have the original weatherstrip on them and I just happened to be lucky enough that they mostly fit with the new stuff on the body. Eventually I'll be able to replace that to get everything sealed up properly. The experience is good so that I'm ready to tackle the RS, but I doubt I'd ever do it again on a daily driver.

 

Thats funny Cayse, i too got tired of always rushing to get jobs done because my car is a daily driver. I strongly suggest getting another daily driver, at least until your camaro is done. I broke down and bought a new car over the summer, i'm sorry to say i don't drive the Z that often but i have a ton of jobs to do to it that i can tackle now, without using up my vacation!

 

I have a feeling I'll just end up selling this car in a couple years so I can drive a new car daily and just work on the RS.

A new Camaro, that is! 5th-gen baby!!! LOL

 

Hey guys just thought I would throw this in even though you have already finished. I have had great luck using "liquid butyl" caulking for sealing up t roofs. It commands great respect when handling it however as it never dries and its stringy and messier by far than anything I have ever tried to use but it works A1 and lasts extremely well... over eight years on the first car we did it to and its stored outdoors all winter long in North Bay! Brrrr. Silicone sealers and so called trim and weatherstrip adhesives seem last okay for a couple of seasons and then need to be redone. Another spot that should be sealed is under the hatch hinges. You can buy the liquid butyl stuff at commercial building suppliers and its low buck. Just my