Just wondering. When you install the new weatherstripping do you use a sealer on it too, like a silicone or something? Or do you just clip it in?

I'm ordering some new ones and want to be sure I have everything before installing them.

Thanks.

Robert

I think it depends on which stripping you're installing. I think the one's on the doors just clip on. Might wanna call a local body shop and ask them.

EDIT: The thread says t-top weather stripping install. Yeah, you're going to need a sealant of some kind. I've read on this site that leaks develop due to a weak stripping-to-body seal, not necessarily a stripping-to-t-top seal. I had mine professionally done, but I don't know what kind of sealant they used. I'd take a guess and say "3M weather stripping sealant" (which you can get at any auto parts store), but if I was doing the work myself, I'd call a body shop and ask what they use.

I can wait(shudder) untill I tackle this project.

when i removed mine..what ever it is they use to seal em is a pita to remove i had to scrape for a fargen day to get it all off,good thing i was painting the car

I think i was like a urathane cement like they use for the windows

there are a couple products out there for this. one is 3m wetherstrip adhesive, and then autozone carries wether seal adhesive by some gasket company forget the name but it is in a orange box. you can also get some ribbon sealer by 3m its a plyable rubber stuff that is little stickey that is used to fill in the area where the weather strip comes down at the rear of the side window, if yours is good you don;t need any more. one of the screws that hold the weather stripping in is under this stuff.

best way top remove the old stuff is a wire wheel on a drill or dremel tool, die grinder with 3 m roloc wheel work real nice too. there are some nice narow wire wheel that will get into the tight spots but the roloc will fit in all spaces.

jeff

Anyone done this with C&C tops?

I used a drummel with a small wire wheel, it worked great. I also read where you should replace the moisture pad under the center strip as well as put some sealant on the screws that hold it on. I have left this part for the last thing to do before I put my car on the road. I have sealed the center strip in and let it age while I did the rest of the work to the car. I must say I do not look forward to this part of the restore!

yup me too i used a dremel and it did well.. i went out and bought one just for it.. my t top channels had some rust in them so i got all that out that i could... i put new stripping in my and its weird but on heavy rains i have a puddle in the passenger floor WTF and u cant see it come it im pissed

when you guys wire wheel it- did you use touch up paint befor putting the new seals on- im about to tackle this project i have the seals and some 3m yellow adhesive

i used a red scuff pad with this stuff in a spray can called "high solve". we use the this stuff at work to take glue residue off of the parts.

what does a shop charge to do this, any ideas?

Well I'm just about ready to install the new seals. I have the 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Should I just use this where the rubber seals come in contact with the metal of the car?

Any tips are appreciated at this time.

Thanks

Robert

I would prime and paint the area before I put the stripping in. You can usually clean the glue up. I also would test fit it before I glued it in. Becareful not to over do it, too much glue will make a mess for sure. I have used 3m before and it is really snotty if you know what I mean. If your not careful it will string out like cheese on a good Pizza.

When the seals are in place and sealed down with the 3M weather strip adhesive, should you leave the roof off and windows down while it sets or let it set with the roof and windows applying pressure?

Thats a good question. I didn't and my thoughts on that is it should set as even as it can. The ttops could make it pucker of a sort. The tops when left in a bad about making there own groves in the seals. I would mask them down at different points or something of that nature. This is my own opion, not to say thats the best way to do it. Clarence

So you rekon let it set without the tops on?

I would and use masking tape or the likes to hold down the spots you my have an issue with. Putting the tops in, I think would open a can of worms. The weight of the tops and or placement may shift the seals in such a way that it may cause a pucker, could result in a leak that is glued into place. Once again thats only my own thoughts. Cee

is it possible to have t-tops installed on a car without them?

yeah its a pain, has anyone here successfully installed the weather stripping and not had 1 leak. I install and re install and omg i'm going to flip. I think the water is coming in where the center bars ends meet in the front and in the back. There tiny gaps there. I dont get it.

I closed that gap with sealent and also put some sealent on the screws that hold the bar in, I wiped the excess off. There is a gap in the front and back. Since I did not have that pad in the front, the one that goes under the bar, I sealed any and every posible point of entry. CEE

so i'm guess thats the only place water could have a chance getting in. So no problems after you did that? 100% no leaks?

After you install the gaskets you have to put the Tops in, it sets the gaskets in place. Do it before the sealer gets dry or else you've wasted all that time and money. I just did this 2 months ago to my car and have had great luck so far

Infact in my directions the specifically say to put the tops on the car for at least one hour. I let them sit overnight

now thats one badass camaro

tunedport, what about the front and back of the center bar? what does yours look like cause i have tiny gaps. I dunno why

I filled the gaps with the 3M sealer. I think its a ****ty design on GM's part

I used Permatex black weatherstrip adhesive, as I've heard it lasts longer than 3M. You will also need 3M Strip Caulk (comes in a blue box, available from CarQuest) for where the roof rails meet the window rails. Purchase a new t-bar for the middle of the car, as well, you will definitely need it.

I ended up sanding off all of the adhesive and then using a rust inhibitor/sealer on everything. The Permatex stuck pretty well to it, so I'm not worried about that. I put adhesive into the screw holes for the center bar and pretty much around the entire perimeter of its underside. You then put TWO beads along the center bar rails (one in the outside lower groove and one just above it), and one bead along the outer edge of the rest of the roof and window rails. The t-tops themselves are fairly simple, but you may need to drill holes in the plastic roof rail as they sometimes do not line up.

Overall, it's a lengthy process, but worth it in the end. They definitely helped in getting rid of a lot of leaks (decklid is all that's left for me ), and they also improve the appearance of the car with the t-tops off. Good luck!

gees i wonder how they pulled this off from the factory. Where can a new t-top bar be purchased

I agree with everything you said. The strip Caulk is very important also, as regular sealer won't be able to fill those gaps. Good post man

Ok, so I'll put the tops on after I get the seals on. I presume I should close the doors with the windows up so that there is pressure on the sides where the window glass comes in contact?

Here's my dilema. I have new centre bar, seals and 3M adhesive...but no 3M strip caulk!!!! What is the part number for this stuff? Problem is, I'm in the UK and couldn't even get the adhesive here, I had to get that from someone who ordered too much for themselves. Anyone know the part number so I can try to find it here, or even a web site that sells this stuff? OR...is these a substitute???

Thanks for all the help

3M Strip-Calk

Part No. 051135.-08578 BLACK

20 yds in 1 foot lengths.


http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...eme_us_aad_3_0


No need to close the doors with the windows up as those gaskets kind of "ride" in the groves anyways. The T's need to be put in and let sit for awhile because the gaskets up top will need to flatten out and settle. Once you install the gaskets, you will notice the gaskets near the TTOP area look a little "wierd" and won't be flattened out. Putting the TTops on helps that process.

I totally replaced my t-top seals, all of them. I do beleive it was 8 pieces total, and have zero leaks. It's nice. Really nice.

Are you best to roll the caulk into a ball then press it into the gap (circled red) to fill it?

Hey, that pic looks familiar!

You don't actually fill in that entire gap, as part of the weatherstrip goes through there, if I remember correctly. After you take off your old stuff and clean it up, lay the new one on there and line up the corners to see how they fit. You'll see where the strip caulk should go pretty easily.

That was the perfect pic. Good ol' search tool never leats you down.

I'll do that, hopefully in the next couple of days. Thanks for all the help