I am now spraying color on my car!!! Yeah!!!

But.... There are a few spots where I sanded down to the metal and now those spots are 'telegraphing' through the first coat (just where I got to metal but not where I had a few bondo spots).

I feathered those spots back working upto 220 grit. Then I sprayed 3 coats of a heavy build primer/ surfacer, sanded b/w each coat with 300/400/600. It didn't show after the primer, so I thought it was ok. Now that I have one color coat on, I can see th outline of where the spot is, but can't feel it.

Will this go away with the next coats? I didn't want to get too far and then spend time and $ repainting. I plan on putting on 2 more coats and wet sanding with 1200 grit between coats. Using PPG products.

Thanks

 

Please clarify, you are spraying base directly over bare metal?? If so, that's a definite no, no...
If you can see the outline of the repair in base, or the primer showing through, you're just talking about a coverage problem and your ok.
What color?? If metallic or pearl, make sure you don't sand the final coat of base before you clear. Also wet sanding betwen coats of base is nothing short of messy. 800, or depending on the color, 600 dry, will be sufficient. just de-nib it, don't attack it.

 

No, I sprayed 3 coats of hi build surfacer/ primer over the entire car.

The outline didn't show thru on the primer but it shows on the color coat. I am going to scuff the first coat and spray a little heavier coat on those spots and see what happens. If it turns out ok then I will proceed. I just don't want to waste $300 worth of paint.

I wasn't planning on sanding the last coat. I have heard that before about knocking the metallic out of the paint.

Thanks!

 

Outline of what, exactly? The feather edge of the old paint?
Did you block sand the entire car before you got ready for paint?
What did you finish with?
Did you seal the primer before you shot the color?

 

Yeah i think u should have used some sealer... And what brand paint are u useing... Cuz I know with depont u need the sealer to get the right color/ cover

 

or use an etch primer ?

 

yes
yes
220 grit paper
self etching primer

Using all PPG products. Nothing in their literature mentioned the use of a sealer over the primer.

I had spots on the urethane that I feathered back in to the old paint the same way and those are just fine. There are just a few of the spots on the steel that are doing this. I had many bare spots over the entire car and those aren't showing thru.

 

if you can still see the low spot, then your problem is obvious- you didn't feather it enough. the ONLY thing that will fix it is to sand and spot repair it now.

 

What we need to determine is, WhY?.
How many paint jobs are on the car?
If there are multiple finishes your base will soak in to the other steps of paint...Hence needing the sealer.
220 is also very coarse to final sand... If you are trying to get away with no sealer, then you need to finish in at least 500 wet or 400 dry/machine. If you are using metallic or pearl, you will actually see the paint drop into the sand scratches under the clearcoat.

 

There was the factory and 1 repaint (primed, color, and clear)

It is a metallic.

Why wouldn't these 2 or 3 spots show thru in the primer/ surfacer? That is what gets me. I have 3 full coats of it with sanding in between coats up to 600 grit (dry).

These areas aren't even areas where I did any repair. I think one of them was a rock chip in the A pillar that I sanded out to about the diameter of a lemon.

Just a little baffling.

 

Well, your basecoat reducer is attacking the weakest link in the prior paint, which is at the edges...That's where it can get in, out , below, and around, the paint...
If it's just a shadow and you can't physically feel the ridge, or feather edge, you should be ok... Go ahead and knock everything you've sprayed thus far down lightly with 800... Don't worry base clear is very forgiveable. make sure to use a soft hand pad to do this, the last thing you want is finger marks showing through.
Just baby on the next two coats, kinda dry, kinda fuzzy, (which is really the way deltron sprays anyway...) Allow extra time between to flash and put your third on as normal.
It HAS been a few days, now... What did you do? Just leave everything set??... Just curious.

 

Unfortunately, I can only work on my car on the weekends. So I still have one more day after today before I start the final coats.

I have been using a 'fogging' technique I read about in one post on here and haven't sprayed a real full coat on any sheetmetal execept the jams and underhood. On the GFX, I fogged one coat and saw a couple of orbital sander marks on one of the pieces. I sanded it with some 600 and fogged it again. It didn't show thru so I sprayed a good coat on it and it turned out very nice. (I pretty much disassembled the whole car).

No, I can't feel the ridges or edges of the spots. The Deltron seems to be a very good product (at $250 a gallon it should be!) but it does spray real thin. I am hoping these are showing thru because of the light coat.

Thanks for the help. if you can think of anything else before Saturday, let me know.

Thanks again

 

OK...

went to the Charlotte Auto Fair on Saturday. I talked to a paint and body guy that was at the PPG display. He said that this is most likely caused by not block sanding the area well enough. He said to take some black lacquer based spray paint and just fog the area. Then block it with 600 dry paper. Wherever the edge shows up, build up the area with the surfacer/ primer. Repeat.

He said that some spots may not show up until I shoot the clear. So I guess next weekend I'll take a step back and see what I can find.

 

 

So, what are you trying to say??

I did block sand it, but he said I probably didn't do it well enough. I have been sanding this thing for weeks!! I'll give it another shot this weekend.

 

Sorry, after the re-read, I guess I came off a little sarcastic... That was not the intent.
I guess I kind of take it for granted that everyone knows exactly what block sanding entails.

 

I didn't figure you were trying to be sarcastic. If you were, you wouldn't have been helping this much.

Where the problem is most prevalent is around the windshield frame and at the wheel well contours. i found it difficult to block sand in these areas but I did the best I could.

My dad said he tried the tracer paint and he was able to work out one spot Sunday. I guess when I get there Saturday, I'll do the rest of the car.

 

Ok.

Went back to those areas, did the tracer paint thing, block sanded them back down, primed, sanded 400, primed, sanded 600. Fogged color. Dried. Looked good. Scuffed with 1200, fogged, scuffed 1200, looked good, then painted, painted, painted.

The line returned after the last color coat!!!!!! I have dubbed these things crop circles! I don't know what to do!!

A friend of mine told me that the primer may be too porous and the reducer is getting to the undercoats and reacting with it. Does this sound legit? It did to me. The reducer I am using is hotter than the paint it is covering?? He suggested using a sealer coat over those areas, then priming, and then paint.

The windshield and wheel wells turned out fine this time. Now the 3 areas that this is happening in is at the top center of the B pillar at the rear of the ttops, a spot on the hatch panel, and on the driver door where I removed the body moldings and fixed a dent (no bondo). Weird thing is, the passenger door is just fine!

Any new insight????


Thanks guys.

 

 

I allways use a sealer. I learned the hard way. I allways have probs with paint lifting,crop circles,lol ect ect. And with dupont they pretty much make u use it.

 

Thanks for the reminder Kevin.

Why would it only do it on the last coat tho? I didn't spray heavy (heavier than a fog tho), just several light coats- as you suggested. The last coat wasn't real heavy, but heavier than the previous coats. Gave it time to flash off between (15-20 mins). Should I scuff them down and just keep fogging, never spraying a full coat?

Will this happen when I clear? It is a 4:1:1 ratio (clear: hardener: reducer).

Thanks for the help guys. I have learned quite a bit about painting. It is a lot of work, but I would do it again. Just like anything else I guess, gotta get experience to know what is going on.