Lift off vs Bolt on
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: ATX
Car: Kitt
Engine: Classified
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser/4:11
Lift off vs Bolt on
Now, I want a bolt on fiberglass hood, but the lift off versions are much cheaper. The one I want:
$599 Bolt on
$399 Lift off
What would it take to make a lift-off version safe to use with the hinges and hood latch? Or should I spend the extra mulah and get the bolt on hood?
$599 Bolt on
$399 Lift off
What would it take to make a lift-off version safe to use with the hinges and hood latch? Or should I spend the extra mulah and get the bolt on hood?
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Lift off versions do not usually have enough support on them from my knowledge.
Bolt-on fiberglass hoods usually are a 2 piece fiberglass design. All your mounting hardware is pressed between the 2 pieces.
On a lift-off I believe it's just a one piece type and doesn't have the back plating to allow for the mounting of hardware. I could be wrong though, since I have never actually see the underside of a pin-on hood.
In the long run throw down the cash to get the bolt-on. You might even consider trying to get together a GP from a maker.
Bolt-on fiberglass hoods usually are a 2 piece fiberglass design. All your mounting hardware is pressed between the 2 pieces.
On a lift-off I believe it's just a one piece type and doesn't have the back plating to allow for the mounting of hardware. I could be wrong though, since I have never actually see the underside of a pin-on hood.
In the long run throw down the cash to get the bolt-on. You might even consider trying to get together a GP from a maker.
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Might even consider the evil Ebay Source. I bought a 4" cowl bolt-on GlassTek hood off there for $325 shipped due to ripped off corners. Had it shipped from FL to IL. Spent about $50 to $60 bucks and fixed the corners myself.
From what I figured it would have ran me around $550 or so new from GlassTek including shipping and sales tax (IL purchase).
From what I figured it would have ran me around $550 or so new from GlassTek including shipping and sales tax (IL purchase).
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 4
From: The "D"
Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
Heads up my harwood "bolt on" needed two days of work to actually bolt on!, the edges are raw and about and inch longer than needed, the hood will have the provisions to bolt on but it will not close right out of the box..thought you should know so that your not surprised after the purchase.
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Yeah my GlassTek hood also took awhile. The front lip was 1" thick which looked down right stupid next to the 1/8" headlight plates. I ended up using a belt sander to take off the lip to 1/4" thickness. I had to mess around and cut some of the adjustment stops too.
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UltRoadWarrior9
Transmissions and Drivetrain
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Sep 2, 2015 08:24 PM




Seriously, if you want a bolt on hood, just buy it. Don't try and modify a lift-off. 

