hatch motor question
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On Probation
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 550
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From: Randallstown Maryland
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: Auto
hatch motor question
i have the motor raised up....but it wont go back down? it latches and un-latches...but wont move up and done...any ideas??
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I sure do. Do a search on my user name and "hatch motor". I've covered this many times already. You can also look at the Tech Article on this web site that I wrote. Once you've doagnosed the problem, I sell all the parts you'll need to rebuild it. Just click on my link above and look under hatch pull-down category. Sorry, I've got a heavy shipping day this morning, so I can't go into further details at the moment.
Lon Salgren
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Lon Salgren
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 2
From: El Paso, Texas
Car: 1987 IROC Z
Engine: 350 TPI L98 block
Transmission: 700R4
Just rebuild it with the parts at TDS . I've been doing so recently. At the same rate, I think they offer rebuilt units for like $300. So far, i've replaced
1. Screw housing
2. Screw
3. guide rails (will require some sanding, mine required quite a bit, but the nylon guides you get are a farcry from the plastic of the 80's)
4. Looking to replace this little shiyet cable now that connects to a mechanism that seems to stop and start the motor, my cable came off in the process of building.
You may be able to get by with changing only the screw (not difficult, its under $10), but you will likely find that the case for the screw is cracked as well. Might as well pick that up as well. Also, get the nylon guides. Even if your guides are not broken (which they are), you will need to replace them in the near future. The plastic they used when creating them initilally was not meant to survive past the 80's .
Ultimately, if you have the $300 to spare, have them build one for you, if not then rebuild that which needs to be, and be happy.
*Note: Junkyards are not a viable option. I have checked various junkyards and the majority of people that had pull downs eventually welded them into position, or modified it in some way so that the pull down aspect did not work.
1. Screw housing
2. Screw
3. guide rails (will require some sanding, mine required quite a bit, but the nylon guides you get are a farcry from the plastic of the 80's)
4. Looking to replace this little shiyet cable now that connects to a mechanism that seems to stop and start the motor, my cable came off in the process of building.
You may be able to get by with changing only the screw (not difficult, its under $10), but you will likely find that the case for the screw is cracked as well. Might as well pick that up as well. Also, get the nylon guides. Even if your guides are not broken (which they are), you will need to replace them in the near future. The plastic they used when creating them initilally was not meant to survive past the 80's .
Ultimately, if you have the $300 to spare, have them build one for you, if not then rebuild that which needs to be, and be happy.
*Note: Junkyards are not a viable option. I have checked various junkyards and the majority of people that had pull downs eventually welded them into position, or modified it in some way so that the pull down aspect did not work.
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