Well all of this came in real quick. I don't have blisters but I had some louvers laying around so I'm using them for now. I have a Ding in my hood is this usually what to expect with aftermarket hoods? I doubt I could bang that out, damn it. Also how should i prep it, wet sand with 220? but i do have to bring that ding down to bare metal to evercoat it. I dunno let me know .... here's all the goodies i got.

 

the ding

 

nice gt steering wheel with a brand new Gm t-top bar sweeeet gotta love it,... its almost like christmas and I still have more coming!!!! mwaahahhah

 

It's brand new and it's got a ding? I'd send it right back....

 

if thats a new gm hood id send it back. if its a aftermarket repro hood dents are to be expected. as far as prep goes for the dont id sand down to metal with 100 then fill it. finish it off with 220 then prime it. you could either 220 the entire hood and prime the entire hood. or you could just prime that spot and sand the whole hood with 500 grit wet. if you dont prime the entire hood make sure u lay down some sealer first then you base and clear. if that dent is more than 1/4 inch deep id def send it back tho. theres really no way to get to it from behind. if you got any more questions about prepin it PM me i work at a bodyshop and do this stuff everyday.
matt

 

I feel almost as excited as you i love to see cars are their path to greatness Really thoguh your car has serious potential im loving the direction its going in ..this hood should clean it up times a million!

 

Car show is in almost 10 days... i dont have time to send it back

 

I'm just sanding the hood down , not painting. So just sand to bare metal for the ding then fill, then sand the whole hood with 500? or 220

 

hood is from bodymasters

 

Id send it back and demand next day shipment for a new hood, but I guess thats just me.

 

 

Sweet man finally getting that big *** ugly cowl off. Just dry sand that thing with some 220 or da it if you have one.

 

alright i'm gunna do what yous are suggesting, I will call up my dad and see what they can do. Thing is he leaves for hawaii monday hopefully it would get here by sunday if he orders another today. My Rs hood i got from there by accident and it said Z28 had not 1 ding so I figured sumtin was up with this one. damn it.

 

damn spdfrk i'm surprised you had time to check out some threads sucks you gotta work so much. Glad you made it to my post peace

 

I posted at work . Now I just need to be able to work on my car while im at work.

 

I wouldnt worry about sending that hood back all that stuff is a pain in the *** you alrdy had to ship the RS hood back. First they threw away the one you had then came a RS hood now you got one with a dent whos to say the next one wont get damaged in shipping. I would just keep it you have to paint it anyway the dent isnt bad at all just fix it if the support underneath isnt in the way you could even dolly most of it out then it will hardly take ne filler.

 

I don't know who bodymasters is, but if it's not a GM hood, your next 5 will have dents too.

Hoods are different than other body panels because of the heat and vibration, and twisting resulting from opening and closing. Thick filler will be more likely to crack on a hood than somewhere else, so you want to strive to make it as thin as possible.

If the dent is in a spot where you can get to the back of it, you should try to pound it out as smooth as possible so that your filler is as thin as possible.

Another thing I might consider is to bring it to a paintless dent repair facility. Let them massage it out. In most cases, it'll be perfect when they're done, but even if it's not perfect, like I said above, the thinner the filler the better.

 

we'll see what happens, If i can get a mint hood i'm doin it, if not oh well. The dent is right under a support, so I dont think i could dolley it.

 

 

Im pissed at you for getting rid of your cowl. It may not be the most line fitting hood for the car (ha, look at mine ) but it really made it stand out...especially with the big rims and awesome paint....dont get rid of it, save it for that day when you wake up and realize what you did.......lol thats too harsh, Im just playing with ya, but I really think you should stick with the cowl....aside from all of us 'thirdgen -fanatics, know-it-alls, web-community'...the general public takes notice to the unordinary and different.....I havent had one bad comment from someone yet for my hood, and when I throw in that 'alot of people think its a bad hood for these camaros because of bodylines/ being a trans am hood etc, they just shrug and like that its something different......then again you have your own agenda and it may not be what you're going for....Ill still love your car though, it friggin rocks

 

Camaroguy18- I think your right but this all started awhile back when i bought an Iroc junk yard hood so i could pass inspection. Well i wanted to restore it and my dads work through it out by accident, so they bought me a brand new hood . I think I may just keep this one because I looked at the ding and it's only like 1/16-1/8 deep. It's not bad at all , but still not perfect! lol. As for the cowl, I totally agree with you. I love it also. But everytime i go to inspection I have to take the thing off because its too high. They measure from down inside the wiper area up! which is bs. He said I had a 5 inch cowl I told him 4 he said "still not going to make it" has to be 3. Switching a hood on and off is a hassel and can cause chips in the paint if not extremely carefull...

So in the end it comes down to , Fiberglass, 3"cowl or SS hood

Btw: that cowl was a mold on and was starting to crack, so It was starting to look like poop

 

to keep your options open, i wanted to let you know about Champion Fiberglasses hood. it is a 3" cowl and they are relatively inexpensive. i got mine shipped from Ohio (where they are located) to GA for $420 and change for the whole deal. the hoods are like $300 themselves. www.championfiberglassproducts.com

 

I would DA the hood with 320, fix that dent, seal it, prime it, then paint it.

 

I would still put down some high build and block it a couple of times though.

 

I'm not doing any of the paint stages except priming the spot i sand down to fill that little ding.


So


1) sand down ding area with 180
2)fill the ding
3)sand whole hood with 220
4)guide coat
5)then block with 220

 

I would use 320 not 220 but thats me

 

keep the skyscraper hood on until your new one comes in thats if you decide to order another. It bull**** man you payed for perfection, Id be pissed

 

A couple things guys... That dent is no prob, the size and area will not show through, if properly repaired...
You would be surprised ath the ammount of damaged GM hoods/panels that we fix every day. Hell the ammount of factory repairs GM does before they ship them would roll your socks!!
Repair the area spot prime, block sand the rest of the hood...320 seal and shoot.
Unless you want show quality...Then/and always/prime and block the hood completely, before you paint.

 

I'm going to scuff the hood with 220, then run a guide coat, block it with 220, then 320 What do you do if you have a high spot? I dont see any but jw, specially in a hood. Again guys i'm not doing any of the painting, my job is just to get the hood ready for paint for the guys at my dads work. Yes i'm lookin for best results, so i'm guess wetsand the 320?

 

You're getting a little ahead of the game here. You're doing all this WITHOUT PRIMER?
Just curious.
If so There won't be any e-coat left on that hood ...You'll be down to steel.
The only reason to guide coat is to determine the low spots. For that you need primer.

 

I'm not priming the whole hood as in a paint stage, but primer to protect the bare metal/ evercoat is pretty self-explanatory

 

Then you're missing the steps needed to achieve what you want.
IF you are going to work the finish that is already on the hood, (the e-coat) the way you describe, (unless I'm missing something),, you will have nothing left.
You will need to, repair the damages, sand it, (220 is fine), PRIME THE PANEL, The whole panel and nothing but the panel.
Then guide coat, THEN block sand, Then re-guide coat, PERHAPS re-prime, Then wetsand, THEN finish.

 

I said i was just going to prime the areas exposed such as the evercoat and bare metal that shows through. I can run a guide coat of white spray then block. Just right steps please as to doing this right. I don't want to prime the whole hood with a spray can (All i have) because it may not be compadable with the chemicals at my dads work, get me?.

 

Ok...rattlecan... gotcha, WHY???
I AM describing the correct way to do this prep. I would not give you advice if I didn't know how it was done... BUT, you never said anything about rattlecan...I guess I just take it for granted that someone knows to use a two-part primer from a gun.
Blocking the e-coat will get you no results at all, save showing you the outline of the low spots, as it is extremely THIN. The idea behind prime and block is to level out the low spots... The minute you hit steel, it's all over. and you will hit steel...very quickly. You need fill to level out lows. That's what the primer is for.

 

what in the hell. First of all, I'm sorry but I don't have a gun and air compressor. I'm 17 and I have other stuff to spend money on. I dont understand you, can you be more specific?

 

so what I can't just run a mist of white across the hood then block???Your saying i have to prime the whole hood then block huh???

 

Ok, not bustin your chops, here, just trying to get accross my message.
The hood was shipped with what we call e-coat. (electrostatic coating)
Kinda like powdercoating...just not nearly as durable.
It is VERY thin. It will not withstand sanding with a da...THEN blocking...Then wetsanding. It just won't have any material left.
For this step you need a high build primer.
It FILLS the lows...when you block sand the panel...usually in steps,the low spots pop out at you...while you are blocking the panel, you are knocking the fill primer off the high spots.
That's how you make it FLAT.