Hood Pins
#1
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 350+
Transmission: Wishin Manual
Hood Pins
Hey guys, im not gona deal with my hoods hinges or the latch anymore since my hood blew off, so im going to switch to hood pins. Anyone have any pics of how they exactly work or any tips? Thanx guys
#2
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Car: 89 Trans AM GTA, 99 Olds Alero GLS
Engine: TPI 350 L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 3.27
I just put mine where the rubber stops is around the headlights. I took them out, drilled the hole to put the pin and nuts on, and drilled holes in the hood. I didnt like hood pins but I kinda do now. Sorry I dont have pics yet of them I just put mine on this past weekend.
Also, Im still using the latch though just for security. Wouldnt feel comfortable with just pins keeping people out of my motor.
Also, Im still using the latch though just for security. Wouldnt feel comfortable with just pins keeping people out of my motor.
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by steve87iroc
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#8
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 350+
Transmission: Wishin Manual
The ? is, does it work? LOl i had one almost that big on my 305 awhile back, but the dork who put it on before me, just slaped it on for looks
#9
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Car: 1987 iroc z
Engine: 355 dart platinum 215cc heads
Transmission: <<BLOWN UP TH400>>
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 4.11's
yeah im building a motor for it right now that will need it even if it was for looks it looks preatty cool i think the smaller one's dont look all the good yes its a harwood 4" i love the look of it.
#12
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Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
Originally posted by Airpak
I have hood locks. Still have the hood latch and struts though.
I have hood locks. Still have the hood latch and struts though.
slap some 17's on there with the 91-92 GFX and thats exactly what I'm aiming for (on the outside)
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Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350?
Transmission: 700-R4
I did this on my impala, yah a carb fire burned my 55,000 mile mint 64 hardtop into a $900 parts car.
Not bumping this topic because I want to, I just feel like you guys need to know the danger of the hood pins. I couldn't for the life of me get the hood off during the fire. The fiberglass was melting and I couldn't pull the pins even with my shirt off as a shield.
Not bumping this topic because I want to, I just feel like you guys need to know the danger of the hood pins. I couldn't for the life of me get the hood off during the fire. The fiberglass was melting and I couldn't pull the pins even with my shirt off as a shield.
#15
steve87iroc how do you get your hood to sit flush with the fenders?? I don't see anything that would act as a stop to keep the hood from sitting to low. on reg oem hoods the hinges of course have alot to do with it along with the spring up front.
#16
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Car: 1987 iroc z
Engine: 355 dart platinum 215cc heads
Transmission: <<BLOWN UP TH400>>
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 4.11's
well first off when i had first put the hood on it sat real low about an inch from the top of fender. when i took the old hood off i had took the rubber bump stops off to so i got to thinking and put the rubber stops back on and now it sits level. when you get the hood it has like a 1 inch lip all the way around it i had to trim the front part of it off.
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Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Heres how I did mine... The studs are mounted right beside the rubber hood stops in front.
Its just the $10 Mr. Gasket set, but I didn't like the thin 3" peices of cable they give you and the screws to hold the scratch plates down. I used pop rivets to hold the scratch plates down (works and looks great!) and I bought 5 feet of galvanized steel cable to use on the clips. They have been there in the snow, ice and rain and still look awesome.
The best way I found to hold custom cables to your clips is to go to an electronics store and buy a package of connectors. The kind you put on the end of a wire to hold it down with a screw. Get the chrome ones and use them on the ends of the cables. They are nice and strong and will not come apart, and looks very nice... better than the stuff GM used to use for sure.
I used the connectors on both ends of the cables because one end was to go on the clip, and the other end was riveted down to the body, right around where the hood latch is.
Its just the $10 Mr. Gasket set, but I didn't like the thin 3" peices of cable they give you and the screws to hold the scratch plates down. I used pop rivets to hold the scratch plates down (works and looks great!) and I bought 5 feet of galvanized steel cable to use on the clips. They have been there in the snow, ice and rain and still look awesome.
The best way I found to hold custom cables to your clips is to go to an electronics store and buy a package of connectors. The kind you put on the end of a wire to hold it down with a screw. Get the chrome ones and use them on the ends of the cables. They are nice and strong and will not come apart, and looks very nice... better than the stuff GM used to use for sure.
I used the connectors on both ends of the cables because one end was to go on the clip, and the other end was riveted down to the body, right around where the hood latch is.
#18
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally posted by Meatwad
Not bumping this topic because I want to, I just feel like you guys need to know the danger of the hood pins. I couldn't for the life of me get the hood off during the fire. The fiberglass was melting and I couldn't pull the pins even with my shirt off as a shield.
Not bumping this topic because I want to, I just feel like you guys need to know the danger of the hood pins. I couldn't for the life of me get the hood off during the fire. The fiberglass was melting and I couldn't pull the pins even with my shirt off as a shield.
#20
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 350+
Transmission: Wishin Manual
Originally posted by TexasB4C
you think you could have got to the hood release latch with the fire going, try sticking your hands under the hood to open it
lol
you think you could have got to the hood release latch with the fire going, try sticking your hands under the hood to open it
lol
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Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350?
Transmission: 700-R4
In all honesty I think I could have, my 64 was EASY to get up, and with my shirt I think I could have easily got it off.
The main problem was the hood (fiberglass) started warping and put so much pressure on the pins the firedepartment had to use a grinder to get the hood off.
I honestly think with a stock hood (latch) would have been NP to stop.
The main problem was the hood (fiberglass) started warping and put so much pressure on the pins the firedepartment had to use a grinder to get the hood off.
I honestly think with a stock hood (latch) would have been NP to stop.
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