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Driver window won't align and won't seal

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Old 06-27-2005, 12:08 PM
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Car: 1994 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Driver window won't align and won't seal

I followed the directions of the glass positioning writup. However, it's like the tracks themselves aren't close enough for the window to seal. I adjusted every single thing (1-5) but it wind still vibrates the front by the side mirror and there is a 1/4" gap between the window and seal at the back of the window by the sail panel.

Also, when I shut the door the window snags the t-top outermost weather strip, so I have to roll down the window, then roll it back up to get into the t-top "groove".

What do I need to do?
Old 06-28-2005, 04:07 AM
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Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
Any chance of a link to the write-up? I know this isn't helping you much, but I've just fitted new weatherstrips on the top of the doors (felts), and everything seems to work fine. I had to remove the triangular piece next to the mirror to get at one of the strip's screws and yet it bolted back in ok.
I'd like to read the write up to see if I can make a suggestion

Mark.
Old 06-28-2005, 07:05 AM
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
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If I get a chance I'll write something up.. I re adjusted mine last year with the new seals.. the only problem I have is a slight bit of wind noice between the triangle piece and the seal. I played with my glass quite a bit.. you need to find an in-between spot (I personally think the glass isn't long enough). I first aligned the glass to sit half way on the rear glass seal, keeping it parallel to the body. At times I found the glass was sitting to high, and adjusted the up glass stoppers to compensate for that. This may be your case, check your hooks that stop the glass, and make sure they are catching. From there I made sure that when the window was up, that the in/out adjustment is holding the glass to the seals evenly. The Triangle piece I adjusted as far on to the glass with out being to far away form the front seal, and going far enough onto the glass. Mainly keeping the shape of the window. It's really something you need to play with, it's a bit hard right now to really describe it. I really wanted the everything to sit snug to the seal all around.. But found that just was not possible, and to have the glass keep the water out. So right now I have no leaks, even in hard rain. I hope this helps some...
Old 06-29-2005, 04:08 PM
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Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
if you do a write up can you show some pictures of where the adjustment bolts are. i looked at it and cant figure out where what is
Old 06-29-2005, 05:15 PM
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Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
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Ok, sounds like you've got a couple problems...There are a TON of adjustments to these windows, and pictures would be very helpful. But, figure out where the window needs to be, hunt down the bolts that control this motion and adjust one thing at a time...
I assume you just wanted a better seal, and hence the change...
Or has the door's position changed somehow as of late??
The first thing I would do, is get the height correct first. Look at it going up and down, There should be a bolt connected to a stop on each run...(front and rear) raise the window all the way to the stops and drop it a scoche, until the right height is achieved. Do this by opening and closing the door until it is not hitting the upper strip. Loosen the stops, let them drop to the height you're at and re-tighten. You may need to do this a couple times to get it right, and after you get the glass to seal at the sides.
The "in and out seal" is a little tougher to achieve. You should be able to move each run in and out at the top, (by the triangle shaped filler and towards the back) The adjustments by the filler are large and square, so it may take a while... You can go in, out, forward, and back. It's been a while since I was in one, so I'm not positive, but there may be an adjustment at the bottom of each run as well. The key here is to tilt the run ( and subsequently the regulator), out, to bring the top of the window in, while it is in the up position.

Trial and error, trial and error. Good luck.
Old 06-29-2005, 05:17 PM
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Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
i also need my door pin and bushing changed since it sags a bit. should i change that first before adjusting it.
Old 06-29-2005, 10:07 PM
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
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yeah.. fix the door pin first...
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