Ok, so I'm going to sand blast this spare rear I have here, and rebuild it with my HD ZT... I want to paint it, to make it look better (than rust) but am wondering what options you guys have, on a tight budget?

 

i'll bump for ya.. I too have a rear end ready to install that I was thinking about wire brushing and hitting with black tremclad.. perhaps someone has a better idea?

 

You could try powdercoating it, it would work better than paint I would think.

 

POR 15 work very well

 

Get the rust off, clean it up real good no more dirt/grease, tape off the brakes and hoses, and hit it with a few cans of high temp Engine Paint in your favorite color. When I re-did my suspension I took every part off and painted it, cost me $20 for all materials. Looks much better now. Por 15 would be great too. Another big appearance changer is getting the rotors turned and painting the center by the studs (hub portion) and calipers, or if its drums, painting the drums. You could make a big difference for around $20-$40.

 

when i was gettin the new rear ready to be swapped in(new seals and paint) all i did was wire brush it, wipe it down and spray bomb it(spray can) so far its still on there, dusty but the paint is there and still black. ill try to get some pics for u

 

F-IT
if you can wirebrush it down or sand blast it
hit it with some Rustoleum paint
i like glossy black

i've had it last years on the cars i've done
and it looks great

it's not that east to see the 3rd gen rear especially if you have the exhaust there
on my 79 TA, thats a different story, more visible

i just painted right the rear on her car, looks good considering all i did was just paint it real quick.

 

I wire wheeled all the rust away and painted with eastwood rust encapsulator.

The little bit of discoloration all over the place is grease from my hands. I still have yet to wipe all that off

 

http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin...mes;read=30120

I am about to cover my rear end and entire underbody with that zero rust stuff.

 

Here's my Rustoleum primer + paint after a wire-wheel.. Came out great.

Kevin D.

 

POR-15 all the way

 

well that settles it, I'm going to have to pick up a wire wheel for my drill (grinder?) and go with that route. thanks!

 

has anyone seen Chassis Saver stuff ?

My body shop really wanted me to buy it. The price (at about 50% I think) sure beats Por-15, but I did some searching on google and on entire internet the only reviews I found were marketing fluff (just because they all sound so similar), but I didn't find a single real person that has actually used it in real life on a real car.

 

If you have the kind of scale buildup I did, a drill won't have the torque you need. I used a 4" knotted wire wheel on an electric grinder. Wear safeties and a breather mask too, you'll need em.

 

onebinky your under carriage is impecable.. looks new.

I've got a 5" makita grinder, looks like I'll have to seek out a wire wheel for it.., thanks!

 

go with por-15. i have used it and it works great. just make sure you prep it first

 

Thanks

Still not completely done, but I got the hard part finished. It was covered in poorly done undercoating, had a few rotted sections that needed replacement, and alot of rust that needed to be removed. Now I just need to strip the rear frame stubs and the rocker area and paint em up. I ran out of time last year before fall really hit. It's slowly getting to where I want it to be, just a matter of time.

Oh, I'd recommend the knotted style wheel too. The regular bunched style doesn't work nearly as well for rust and scale removal, and will wear out much quicker.

 

Hey Vil,
My jobber that sells us our paint swears that it's every bit as good as POR 15 at half the price...
Hope this helps.

 

hmmmmm... just as good? sounds good to me.. i plan on coating my floor pans (inside and out) and por-15 is soo damn expensive..

 

I have used POR-15 on my rear (and a lot of other parts) and it works great. Highly recommended.

 

theres stuff called Rust Bullet it works really good a buddy of mine got it, you don't have to lay down all the stuff before hand for it to stick like you do the por-15 it's cheaper and supposedly better too which makes it better in my book.

 

Well I wire wheeled my rear and sprayed it down with "rust not" just cheap stuff I found at a local auto supply store. They didn't have Tremclad, which I was going to use, and he says this stuff is the same or better.. whatever.

I sprayed the rear with 'dove gray' and didn't like the results.. a bit bright. However it did work very well as a primer. I then resprayed with black, couple good coats. I like the way it turned out. Its not a show car so it isn't perfect, couple runs and whatnot. Really our cars are so low that no one is going to see it and only I'll know its there.., its not a show car.

Now if I can only find the proper drive and driven gear for my speedometer to mate with the new 3:73 rear gears, I'll be all set. Anyone know where I can get the proper gears for a M39 Borg-Warner T-5? The dealer says they're discontinued...

 

If you try a search on yahoo, there are a few places that carry them on the aftermarket level. Also, you can try calling around to a few dealers. Some may have old stock laying around.

 

Try Bowtie Overdrives...they deal with the 700r4 but also have a speedo gear size software chart (Tire size and gears ) to pick the different gears needed...

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com

 

I swear by por-15. I just stripped my engine compatment bare and preped with por15 before I primed. It does seem a little expensive but a quart seems to go a lot further than you would expect. I had painted my rear end with hammerite years ago and it never rusted through the paint but it is starting to peel. I'm pulling it out this week to make some brake brackets and I'm goign to strip it and use por 15.