Body General body information and techniques for restoration, repairs, and modifications.
View Poll Results: repair it or not?
repair it ?
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37.78%
sell it ?
12
26.67%
buy a parts car?
3
6.67%
try to out run the cops with it?
14
31.11%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll

rust-is it worth it

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 08:47 AM
  #1  
slimstyle's Avatar
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From: alpena,mi
Car: 1990 chevy camaro rs
Engine: 305,v8
Transmission: auto
rust-is it worth it(new pics)

ok i've got a 90 rs 305 ,intierer is great engine,tranny its all good.exept for the body,rust on the wheel wells,floor pans along the bottom of both sides the hatch and behind my gas lid hatch(how did that get rusty anyway.)so im asking is it worth doing all that body work? ball park price?

this is the only photo i got right now i've got it parked for the winter.

Last edited by slimstyle; Jan 25, 2006 at 06:09 AM.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #2  
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From: Port St Lucie, FL
If its not bad you can fix it yourself pretty easily, Just sand it down a little and cover it with por 15 then paint over that to match.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 10:05 PM
  #3  
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From: montgomery PA
Car: 90 camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: t10
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.88's
i'd say look around and try to find one thats rust free for cheap before you dump money into yours and just use yours as a parts car
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:13 AM
  #4  
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From: alpena,mi
Car: 1990 chevy camaro rs
Engine: 305,v8
Transmission: auto
here are some pics of the problems
Attached Thumbnails rust-is it worth it-jpg-gaslid.jpg  
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:16 AM
  #5  
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From: alpena,mi
Car: 1990 chevy camaro rs
Engine: 305,v8
Transmission: auto
#2
Attached Thumbnails rust-is it worth it-jpg-camaro-3.jpg  
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:17 AM
  #6  
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From: alpena,mi
Car: 1990 chevy camaro rs
Engine: 305,v8
Transmission: auto
looks good here
Attached Thumbnails rust-is it worth it-mvc-044s.jpg  
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:18 AM
  #7  
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From: alpena,mi
Car: 1990 chevy camaro rs
Engine: 305,v8
Transmission: auto
not here
Attached Thumbnails rust-is it worth it-mvc-021s.jpg  
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:54 AM
  #8  
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ouch... id say unless you are wealthy and willing to dump alot of cash into that badboy... id find a better shell.

and keep that as your winter beater.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 07:03 AM
  #9  
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From: Rhode Island
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by JB22
ouch... id say unless you are wealthy and willing to dump alot of cash into that badboy... id find a better shell.

and keep that as your winter beater.
my old 85 looked excellent from the out side, took the interior out, floors rusted through. i scrapped it found a better shell well worth it for the 1000$ you would spend on new floors you can find a good shell
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 11:20 AM
  #10  
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From: Marengo, IL
Car: 2011 Ranger
Engine: 2.3L
Transmission: Stick - Shift like a man!
Take out the motor, trans, etc and buy one of the rollers from down here. Oh yea, give me the rusted shell that ya have so I can have a cool project I've got offers from a couple guys for Camaro rollers, one was $1300 looked stock, the other was semi-built for the drag strip (skinny/fatty, cowl hood, can't remember what else) for $1800. I'd buy one of them myself - probably the drag one - but I need to sell some toys first so I have cash to actually buy the car And I'd really prefer a Firebird

Good luck with whatever you do tho
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #11  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
The floor is the only thing I see that's really of any concern. The rust around the gas door can be sand blasted away and filled without the need for new metal. Your fenders might be able to be saved, but they're cheap enough that I'd just replace them.

The floor pans are available, but it will be a fair amount of work to replace them, so to me, that would be the determining factor whether you'd fix the car or look elsewhere.

I'd also examine the bottom of the doors carefully. Often, at the bottom of the doors they rot out, but with the ground effects, you don't see it unless you're really examining them closely.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 05:11 PM
  #12  
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From: Quebec
Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolts 2.73
Seriously man , the floor ain't no problem just buy some metal sheet at a local hardware store , a good drill , some pop rivets , a rivet gun and some roof pitch . Cut this metal sheet so to fill the hole , rivet it put some pitch under it and a good carpet over it , problem solved it'll never come out again . That's what i did on my bird and it worked well . But if the frame is rusted...forget it . For the body rust you still can change the panels or do a body filler job...

Last edited by golden; Jan 25, 2006 at 05:13 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #13  
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I guess it all depends on what you want.

I can guarantee that if it looks that bad from the places you can see, your going to find other places tucked away that are in worse shape.

If your just trying to keep it together and have it look semi decent then sure, throw some new metal on it. If your trying to save it for good, its just going to cost you a lot more $$ than just finding something in better shape.

my .02 though
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 07:18 PM
  #14  
Derth Deboblo's Avatar
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From: Pennsyltucky
Car: '91 Firebird (blown apart)
Engine: *cough*BOAT ANCHOR*cough*
Transmission: Slushbox
I say ditch it and find a better shell.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:19 AM
  #15  
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From: alpena,mi
Car: 1990 chevy camaro rs
Engine: 305,v8
Transmission: auto
the only problem with trying to find another shell is that i live in the northern lp michigan. rust is every where. also i got a feeling that finding one w/o rust is going to be hard.
Attached Thumbnails rust-is it worth it-mvc-051s.jpg  

Last edited by slimstyle; Jan 26, 2006 at 07:22 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 09:46 AM
  #16  
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: 305 ci v8 LO3
Transmission: WC T5
I live in upstate new york and it is def hard unless you got some money. You can find it though. I probably spent about 4 months looking for a camaro and finally found one without a spot of underbody rust. Incredibly solid body for 2000. The only thing is i wanted t-tops but it has a sunroof so that will do for now. It may take some time but it is possible to find something nice.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:00 PM
  #17  
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From: NC
Car: 91 Trans Am
Ive got a rust free stripped chassis down in NC if someone wants it
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:58 PM
  #18  
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From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Sell it buy a better shell.
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 11:27 AM
  #19  
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From: Quebec
Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolts 2.73
I'll say fix it don't crush it...If you saw barrett jackson you know these cars in 30 years will worth 50 000$ +.
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 02:23 PM
  #20  
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From: Warren, MI
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 T.B.I. (Vin tag "E" = LO3)
Transmission: THM-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi 3.23
ya but if nothing is done to his car, in 50 years it will be completely rotted out...
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 06:01 PM
  #21  
slimstyle's Avatar
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From: alpena,mi
Car: 1990 chevy camaro rs
Engine: 305,v8
Transmission: auto
well i just got my new job and i'll be making good money so i think i will sink the money into it. I wrecked my first third gen. it was a iroc. so i must make up for that one. i cant let another one go to the bone yard.
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 07:09 PM
  #22  
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From: Marengo, IL
Car: 2011 Ranger
Engine: 2.3L
Transmission: Stick - Shift like a man!
Congrats, can't wait to see some before & after pics
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #23  
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: 305 ci v8 LO3
Transmission: WC T5
good call. Even though you have the rust it will be worth it once its finished and you can see that final product. Its soo nice to good looking nice camaros. No reason to boneyard another.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 05:38 PM
  #24  
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From: Madison, WI
Car: 1986 Camaro Z28
Engine: 400
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt Posi 3.73
Took me a year and a half to find my Z28 that was stored in the winters. Just gotta be patient.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 06:10 PM
  #25  
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 4.10 gears
I got my T/A for $500 including the crosslace rims down in Delaware and it has very little rust on it. I had to transport it back up here, but it was still worth it. I'd hate to be battling serious rust.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 07:07 PM
  #26  
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I spent quite awhile looking for a car that had been stored winters. problem was, it sat out during the summers and freakin t-tops leaked and rotted the passenger floor board out. still thats a minor fix in the general scheme of it all.

I definitely wouldnt want to be fighting that kinda rust.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #27  
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From: Rhode Island
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
I decided to get a new shell, but my 85 z28 needed both floors and a ton of wiring work, even my painless kit was barely any help, it all depends, if it needs nothing other than the body work then do it and do it right the first time and never do it again, or if it needs other things ditch it and get a new shell
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 12:20 PM
  #28  
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
My suggestion is to use that car as the Parts car... it looks good but structurally its pretty much gone.

It will be cheeper in the long run to buy a nice one and start with that...

Not sure what engine is in it, but if its less than TPI, I would think its not worth restoring at this point in time.

John
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 03:20 PM
  #29  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
in all honesty what you see is most likely the tip of the iceburg. my friend has a 91 RS that we did very extensive metal replacement on, once we pulled up the carpet we found the area behind the bottom of the fender was gone, the footrest was gone, as well as a fairly large hole hear the back seat, one wheel well had a football sized hole in it. it took alot of work cutting and grinding it all out, then we welded in patch pannels just cut from sheetmetal. and sealed up all the seams good. however the car also needed an engine at the time, which we had already had mostly installed by the time we found the worst of the rust. had we known all this was gone we probably woulda parted the car, but its too late now, we saved it.

Last edited by White93z34; Feb 1, 2006 at 03:22 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 11:23 PM
  #30  
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From: Ft. Worth
I bought a Chevelle...always wanted another '67. Had it a few months and took the sand blaster to the trunk and blew a few holes in it because of the rust...and nothing rusts in Texas...but this one did....gave her a kiss and pat on the bumper and said goodbye.
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