Some people are idiots!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 1
From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
Some people are idiots!
Working on my Son's '91 Firebird, I pulled the driver side door panel off to see why the window motor wasn't working (it wasn't plugged in) but found this : 
WTF! Why would someone do this?! The motor for the window has been replaced, it has bolts holding it in instead of rivets. The door window was not secured to the lift rail, you could just pull the whole window right out of the door! The door sags at the latch end because of these cuts.
Do you think I can get this welded back together, or should I just find a used door?

WTF! Why would someone do this?! The motor for the window has been replaced, it has bolts holding it in instead of rivets. The door window was not secured to the lift rail, you could just pull the whole window right out of the door! The door sags at the latch end because of these cuts.
Do you think I can get this welded back together, or should I just find a used door?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,361
Likes: 1
From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Are you sure the door sags from the cut and not from the hinges? Getting that welded up would certainly be easier than pulling the door and having it painted/wired.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 1
From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
Hinges are fine. No movement at the pins, top and bottom. (I do know what to look for as the hinges on my Camaro were in bad shape.) The bottom of the door at the latch end scrapes the gfx. If you close the door (with the interior panel off) you can see the gap at the cuts close up when it latches.
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 506
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
wow, i can believe a certin dergree of it saging comes from those cuts since it is cut so much, i'd weld it back up. but the majority of the door sagging probably comes from the hinges.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,644
Likes: 403
From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
It looks to me like at least 2 welds are broken off.If so than that expalins the sagging.I would fix it with the door closed,cut the welds to close the gaps,weld it up again.Then find a good used door to replace that butchered door.Who knows what other problems you may have to deal with in the future.Plus i wouldnt want that next to me if the car was ever T-boned.WTF!!!
Supreme Member




Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 100
From: So. Ohio
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700r4
Originally Posted by 84 1LE
.Plus i wouldnt want that next to me if the car was ever T-boned.WTF!!!
Trending Topics
Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Topeka, Kansas
Car: 1988 Formula 350
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Trying to have that welded or welding it yourself would be a ok, but I have a feeling that if the door doesn't line up now because of the cuts, it will never line up even after you remove those spot welds and place solid beads along the cuts. I feel this way because that metal is so thin that even on a low setting on the welder, you will still warp the metal welding up those cuts completely and then the door will not line up perfectly. I know this because I am a 4th generation blacksmith.
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 831
Likes: 1
From: Midwest IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: Alky 360
Transmission: TH400, Freakshow 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.71
Looks and sounds like the damage is already done, save the headaches and start searching the JY's. Maybe you can get lucky and find one already the right color.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 1
From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
Originally Posted by KWIK84
Looks and sounds like the damage is already done, save the headaches and start searching the JY's. Maybe you can get lucky and find one already the right color.
Until I do find a door, I know someone that can attempt welding it back together for me. The metal is actually a lot thicker than it looks, and there are ways to keep the heat from warping it too much. Closing the door while welding or a jack in the right spot to close up the cuts, should get it close enough to function better and be safer than it is now.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pac J
Tech / General Engine
3
May 17, 2020 10:44 AM
MadOTC
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Wanted
5
Oct 13, 2015 04:46 PM




