Swapping lock cylinders in hatch
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 178
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From: Connecticut
Car: 90 firebird
Engine: 350 5.7L
Transmission: Th-400 w/ Manual valve body
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Richmond gears
Swapping lock cylinders in hatch
I have a power hatch motor that's wasted in my car now. I want to replace it with another i have, but the new one has the power hatch solenoid on it, so i can't just swap the lock cables. How do i swap the actual lock cylinders between the 2. I kno i have to remove all tailllights and drill the rivets out, but don't see how the locks come apart. I've searched, and found little usable info. Thanks.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
You certainly can just swap the lock cables. Both the manual hatch release and the solenoid release attach to the pull-down motor with a single 10mm screw. The other end snaps onto the back side of the lock cylinder. To remove it you just use a flat-blade screwdriver and carefully pry up on each side of the off-white plastic piece while pulling it. There is a tab that must come free of a groove in the lock cylinder. This is a lot easier than drilling out the rivets of the lock cylinder and swapping the entire unit. Besides, this way you'll keep the key common to the door lock and storage compartment.
Lon
Lon
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
Car: 90 firebird
Engine: 350 5.7L
Transmission: Th-400 w/ Manual valve body
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Richmond gears
Thanks, i finally didi it and i can see now what you were talking about with the plastic tabs.
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